JBJ 28 Gallon Nano Owners Club

Thanks for the info.

Can the light be downgraded? It comes stock with a 150 watt bulb, can I run a 100 watt bulb instead, or does this require a change to the wiring / ballasts? I have no idea how MH works. :)
 
Does anyone have any kind of schematic or design or napkin drawing of how they have their hood lifted up off of the tank? I think I am going to do that this year before it starts getting too hot, but I'm unsure of exactly how to do that...

Thanks, ya'll!
 
Thanks for the info.

Can the light be downgraded? It comes stock with a 150 watt bulb, can I run a 100 watt bulb instead, or does this require a change to the wiring / ballasts? I have no idea how MH works. :)

I don't think that's an option and even if it were MH is going to heat up.

I'm with ange, even 75 degrees will warm that water up significantly with the HQI.

What kind of livestock do you plan on adding? You could do several different LED retrofits that would keep the temp in the tank much more consistent. Otherwise your only option would be to add a chiller.

My house stays cool. Probably averages around 68 to low 70s and my water goes from 79 to 83 while the light is on. I have the same NC 28 HQI. That's one of the reasons that I have a Kessil A150W light on the way. Everything seems happy in the tank but I don't like the temp swings and it will only make me more nervous as I add more pricy livestock.

I understand wanting to keep the tank bare bones stock but it's tough to do. If money is an issue (and when isn't it?) I've seen a youtube video where a guy has legs that hold the hood a few inches about the surface of the water. Doesn't have the stock/clean look but it seems to work. If you want it to have the stock look I'd look into an led retro and do lots of water changes.
 
Does anyone have any kind of schematic or design or napkin drawing of how they have their hood lifted up off of the tank? I think I am going to do that this year before it starts getting too hot, but I'm unsure of exactly how to do that...

Thanks, ya'll!

Heare ya go:
49699179.jpg


Sorry, I couldn't help myself. There's a guy with a youtube video of his tank on what looks like clear plastic legs. But when someone asked how he did it he never responded. I'd be a little nervous about putting together something and trusting it to be sturdy but it's definitely cheaper than a chiller or an led upgrade.
 
I don't think that's an option and even if it were MH is going to heat up.

I'm with ange, even 75 degrees will warm that water up significantly with the HQI.

What kind of livestock do you plan on adding? You could do several different LED retrofits that would keep the temp in the tank much more consistent. Otherwise your only option would be to add a chiller.

My house stays cool. Probably averages around 68 to low 70s and my water goes from 79 to 83 while the light is on. I have the same NC 28 HQI. That's one of the reasons that I have a Kessil A150W light on the way. Everything seems happy in the tank but I don't like the temp swings and it will only make me more nervous as I add more pricy livestock.

I understand wanting to keep the tank bare bones stock but it's tough to do. If money is an issue (and when isn't it?) I've seen a youtube video where a guy has legs that hold the hood a few inches about the surface of the water. Doesn't have the stock/clean look but it seems to work. If you want it to have the stock look I'd look into an led retro and do lots of water changes.

Thanks. If I have to modify it then the deal is not that great. Basically 300 for this plus stand. Seems great, but that could rise rapidly if I have to retrofit and add other parts ... like an hob skimmer.
 
I think 300 for a new tank with stand, filtration compartment and functional reef lighting is a great deal. If you thought a skimmer was necessary, then you would have purchased it anyway, regardless of whether or not you went with this system or another substitute.
 
Heare ya go:
49699179.jpg


Sorry, I couldn't help myself. There's a guy with a youtube video of his tank on what looks like clear plastic legs. But when someone asked how he did it he never responded. I'd be a little nervous about putting together something and trusting it to be sturdy but it's definitely cheaper than a chiller or an led upgrade.

Was that to scale?
 
I have the JBJ Pro LED 89W. Does anyone have trouble with the lid closing all the way? I have to put pressure on it for it to "Click" closed. Also, I notice my ballast for the daylight LEDs gets really hot. I keep it in the cabinet/stand. Is this ok?
 
My lid always laid down easily, the little feeding flap however never closed all the way and warped up eventually.

As for the ballast, the earlier units had a much smaller ballast with a lot less cooling fins, the one I had over heated and burnt out at about 13months. The replacement was almost 1.5 times bigger, heavier, with A LOT more cooling fins.

I would suggest pulling it out and putting in on the stand on the rear where it can get better heat exchange, but again, Im not sure if you have the original or the new ballast. Just my opinion and observation.
 
I have the JBJ Pro LED 89W. Does anyone have trouble with the lid closing all the way? I have to put pressure on it for it to "Click" closed. Also, I notice my ballast for the daylight LEDs gets really hot. I keep it in the cabinet/stand. Is this ok?

My lid just gently sets down without any problems as does my feeding lid though I usually keep that small lid open to allow for what little heat there is to escape. I used to have the old, smaller ballast and mine also went out but JBJ sent me a newer, larger one that seems to run a bit cooler. I mounted it to the inside of the stand but just put some spacers between it and the stand so air can circulate around it and it seems to be doing fine. I suppose you could put a little cooling fan from ebay on it to keep air circulating but I'm not sure it's necessary.
 
Filter sock i mean

Sorry, I'm not sure I follow your question. I have a Tunze 9002 and don't see how a filter sock could be fitted to it. It's in the center chamber and as water goes through the overflow it is taken into the skimmer body. You could maybe put some filter floss pad/material between it and the overflow but I'm not sure that a sock could be fitted to it unless you plan on putting the entire skimmer body in the sock but that would then be a very tight fit into the center chamber and likely a PITA to change out/keep clean. What did you have in mind?
 
Sorry, I'm not sure I follow your question. I have a Tunze 9002 and don't see how a filter sock could be fitted to it. It's in the center chamber and as water goes through the overflow it is taken into the skimmer body. You could maybe put some filter floss pad/material between it and the overflow but I'm not sure that a sock could be fitted to it unless you plan on putting the entire skimmer body in the sock but that would then be a very tight fit into the center chamber and likely a PITA to change out/keep clean. What did you have in mind?

Im having a lot of detritus and many suggested that I could use a filter sock to get rid of it. That's why I'm asking.
But that's what I thought too, no filter sock could fit there. Any other suggestion? Thanks!
 
Im having a lot of detritus and many suggested that I could use a filter sock to get rid of it. That's why I'm asking.
But that's what I thought too, no filter sock could fit there. Any other suggestion? Thanks!

That's why a lot of people prefer to run an HOB style skimmer - so they can keep either the stock media basket or the InTank version and run floss in the top of it to catch detritus.

Only thing I can think of is to add floss somewhere down stream (i.e. the heater and skimmer constant volume chambers) but that still only solves part of the detritus problem as it will still collect in the skimmer and constant volume section.
 
I'm having some issues with it too.

I got crazy amounts of bubbles in the sand when I first got the tank going. I've since added a JNS VS1 skimmer and a phosban reactor with GFO and the bubbles have improved a lot but still haven't gone away completely. I run my light (Kessil A150W sky blue, formally HQI) for about 8 hours a day. I have filter floss in the InTank basket which I change every 3-4 days.

Not sure what else I can do? Maybe change the flow on my Koralia 425 to get more flow around the sand bed? Kinda stumped at the moment.
 
I'm having some issues with it too.

I got crazy amounts of bubbles in the sand when I first got the tank going. I've since added a JNS VS1 skimmer and a phosban reactor with GFO and the bubbles have improved a lot but still haven't gone away completely. I run my light (Kessil A150W sky blue, formally HQI) for about 8 hours a day. I have filter floss in the InTank basket which I change every 3-4 days.

Not sure what else I can do? Maybe change the flow on my Koralia 425 to get more flow around the sand bed? Kinda stumped at the moment.

Sounds like cyano, typical of a new or newish tank. It'll go away eventually. Just make sure you keep your sand bed clean (stir is around and vacuum it with water changes) and make sure you aren't overfeeding. GFO reactor helps greatly, but nothing is ever 100% effective. A good sand-stirring CUC will help out too, as will increased flow (like you stated).
 
Thanks ange. It's gotten better so I'm going to keep being patient and add flow lower in the tank. Feeding is already pretty light with only 2 fish currently.
 
another question..
where do you guys are placing your MP10 and what program are you using?
i have mine in the upper right portion of the right side and using about 70% at lagoon mode.
 
Back
Top