Jebao WP25 Information
- Thread starter Sacohen
- Start date
JRR1285
Member
Nope. Never even plugged in the sensor. I had been using a light dimmer and the sensor light was always on as soon as I turned the dimmer down. It worked fine however until last night.
edit:
I have also tried running the pump now without the dimmer and the same thing happens, light sensor light is on and pump is full blast.
edit:
I have also tried running the pump now without the dimmer and the same thing happens, light sensor light is on and pump is full blast.
Anyone know what voltage control signal is the minimum to run a wp-25 when running at 12 volts?
I'm plannning my battery backup system and want to have it running at minimum power during power outages and possibly intermitantly at that via an arduino. So I need to figure out the power settings to size a battery and pic out a regulator and/or determine arduino settings.
I'm trying to get it all planned before buying anything, because the last thing I need is more stuff sitting around waiting to be used, :lolspin:
I'm plannning my battery backup system and want to have it running at minimum power during power outages and possibly intermitantly at that via an arduino. So I need to figure out the power settings to size a battery and pic out a regulator and/or determine arduino settings.
I'm trying to get it all planned before buying anything, because the last thing I need is more stuff sitting around waiting to be used, :lolspin:
Don't have an exact answer to your question, but I did something similar re: battery backup. I have my apex outputting 0-5V to the Jebaos and if I use less than a 20-25% it cuts out, so ~1.25V. I am using a 550VA UPS and the only thing plugged into it is 2 WP25s and a 12V DC wallwart to power the apex. I plan on writing the power failure code soon and doing some DR testing, I can check output then and also report back on how long 550VA will run the Jebaos at different settings. I am thinking way longer than I will ever need, hopefully. ~18W total on the UPS, 6/pump and 6 from apex base unit.
nystang
New member
Same happened to me. The controller shows "sensor on" although the sensor is not plugged in. I've tried to insert the sensor. No change. The pump is working but I can't make any changes. What is worst, I don't have the order # and the receipt from "That Fish Place". It worked for about 3 weeks.
moondoggy4
Team RC
This is not my work someone else created it, I'm just re-posting it for others to use.
For Neptune Apex:
You will need:
A Reef Angel Jebao Cable. That's it. No need for the Jebao controller box anymore.
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or
0-10v analog input PWM module:
Search ebay for LED DIMMER PWM 10 A.12VDC-24 VDC; POT. or 0-10V control
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Cat5e ethernet cord
Wire nuts
or
Solder and heat shrink tubing
(optional) Solid core wires (or wires that can handle up to 6A) stevesleds.com has some.
Directions:
Unscrew the controller casing
24- is blue
24+ is reddish brown
VA is green yellow and remains untouched
Cut the blue and red wire about halfway down, so you have enough wire connected to the controller still, and some down the cord to the pump. You can also desolder the wires from the 24+ and 24- points, but this is more difficult.
Connect solid core wire to extend the wire length with wire nuts, solder, or some way to connect the wires securely. This makes it easier to work with.
The 0-10v PWM module terminals look like this -+ +-
The first left side -(blue) and +(red) go to the pump wires
The next right side +(red) -(blue) are the ones connected to the controller internals 24+ and 24- points
For the wire to connect to the apex VDM ports, you can buy the Neptune cable ~$15, or do the following.
Cut one end off a Cat 5e ethernet cord.
Keep the following wires:
orange/white wire (positive) - orange wire (negative)
blue/white wire (positive) - green wire (negative)
When plugged into the first VDM port, blue/white wire, green wire is V1, oranges are V2
Second port, blue white green is V3, oranges V4
On the 0-10v module for V1, connect blue/white to + on 0-10v control input terminal , green to - control.
Put the controller back together in a project box, do a really good job with electrical tape taping the loose box together, or fit it all inside somehow and screw back together.
Create profiles to control the pump. The original controller mode are kept, so you can use the Apex to set intensity.
The easiest profiles are ramping profiles throughout the day, like this:
Outlet - Base_Var1 (for V1)
Set PM-Else
If Time 07:00 to 10:00 Then AM-Else
If Time 10:01 to 21:00 Then Day-Else
If Time 21:01 to 23:00 Then PM-Else
If FeedA 000 Then Feed
(feed would be a profile to allow the feed mode)
Profile name: AM-Else
Control type: Ramp
Ramp time (minutes): 1
Start Intensity: 60
End Intensity: 60
(this makes the pump run at 60% power, but if you use the ELSE mode on the controller, it simulates reef crest mode on a vortech, but at 60% overall power)
A midday profile can be made to use a higher intensity, and the PM one can use a lower one.
This barely touches on what can be programmed. If you set the pump on H1 (full power), you can create your own wave mode, like this (borrowed from Kenargo's Tunze profiles)
Profile name: Day Rt
Type: pump
Minimum Intensity: 30
Maximum Intensity: 100
Sync: Enabled
Divide-by 10: Enabled
Initial off time: 4
On time: 8
Off time: 0
Profile name: Day Lt
Type: pump
Minimum Intensity: 30
Maximum Intensity: 100
Sync: Enabled
Divide-by 10: Enabled
Initial off time: 0
On time: 8
Off time: 4
(This creates a huge syncronized wave between two pumps)
You can also use the Weather profiles to control the pump. The Vortech profiles do not work.
Sorry, but I am confused about this. If I buy the RA Jebao cable, do I get to skip the rewiring described in this guide?
i bought a wp40 yesterday for my 75 reef tank..they were out of the 25s so i figured what the heck..go for the gusto bigger is better right?
sorry this 40 is way over kill on my 75, i started by blowing water out on the floor got that cleaned up and got the thing turned down to the lowest setting and it still blew my mushrooms all over the tank,substrate all over looked like a freaking sand storm in the tank..took it out and re boxed it..lfs said they would trade it for a 25,if they ever get any in.there back ordered i may just be stuck with it and order a 25 on-line
sorry this 40 is way over kill on my 75, i started by blowing water out on the floor got that cleaned up and got the thing turned down to the lowest setting and it still blew my mushrooms all over the tank,substrate all over looked like a freaking sand storm in the tank..took it out and re boxed it..lfs said they would trade it for a 25,if they ever get any in.there back ordered i may just be stuck with it and order a 25 on-line
ganjero
saiperchémibatteilcorazon
That post is kind of messy. If you buy the RA cable you need to change the one end with a CAT5e cable as Steve mentioned BUT you cannot not use the Jebao controller, everything has to be done through the APEX which in my opinion is the best way to go. You won't have something exactly the same as the else mode but you can create very random flow patterns, and there are posts on the net with cool patterns for Jebao pumps using an APEX.
The second part explains how to do some rewiring in order to keep the Jebao controller and use its modes and at the same time plug it to the APEX to control intensity or anything else you want, which is more complicated and confusing. It would be easier to add a dimmer to just control intensity, the only difference is the APEX would allow you to change intensity at different times, but the flow patterns will be determined by the Jebao controller. I'm not 100% if you could leave the Jebao controller in constant flow and have the apex do the flow modes with this wiring method, if that's something you wanted to do.
Jebao WP25 Information
I made a custom cable. On one end It has a DC in for the 24v Jebao wallwart and a cat5 cable for the apex input. Then I cut the voltage in 1/2 and put the same 3pin connector at the other end. The cable takes 0-10v signal from apex and cut it down to 0-5v for Jebao while also supplying the constant 24v it needs. HTH.
Just to clarify, this method removes original controller box and does not require cutting up anything from the Jebao.
I made a custom cable. On one end It has a DC in for the 24v Jebao wallwart and a cat5 cable for the apex input. Then I cut the voltage in 1/2 and put the same 3pin connector at the other end. The cable takes 0-10v signal from apex and cut it down to 0-5v for Jebao while also supplying the constant 24v it needs. HTH.
Just to clarify, this method removes original controller box and does not require cutting up anything from the Jebao.
SimonSKL
New member
FS or Jebao seems to be interested in what users are looking for to improve their WP pumps. They are posting on the FS site to poll what new features users are looking for. An auto 90 degree swing will be awesome in ELSE mode! BTW, anyone received the new WP10 yet? Looking forward to a review of the WP10.
ganjero
saiperchémibatteilcorazon
From reading this thread you should ask for something simple that many seem to want, a wider nozzle on the wp25 for wider flow. Also to be able to run the pump without the controller, that way if the controller fails you know that's the issue and you can still have flow while you get a replacement.
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Hey Ryngill,...I'd be interested in your set up,... please post some updates as you get to them.Thanks,---Rick
rrasco
Active member
Where is the poll?
