Just got my tank!
- Thread starter Fmellish
- Start date
mmoore0803
Premium Member
cut and reglue leaving room for noise dampening spongey material beneath it
mmoore0803
Premium Member
that was gonna be my 2nd suggestion.....you didn't put a valve between your pump and drain? pump and return?
mope54
In Memoriam
It's PVC glue for bonding flex to flex or flex to hard. That's the number on the can, probably home depot, lowe's, ace.
btw, you'll want your locline at the surface for a few reasons:
won't drain your tank
agitates the surface for oxygen exchange
makes ripple lines for your viewing pleasure
btw, you'll want your locline at the surface for a few reasons:
won't drain your tank
agitates the surface for oxygen exchange
makes ripple lines for your viewing pleasure
I'm not 100% happy with my plumbing design. I had no plan of course I made it up as I went along. So I'm not that disappointed. But I have some questions.
There were some assumptions and constraints I was designing around that maybe I shouldn't have.
1) Do I need a filter sock? And if you use one, how do you plumb so as to be able to get to it and remove it?
2) How do you plumb your drain to sump connection? My sump had a lid with a hole, so I installed a bulkhead in the hole. But now the issue is that to get my filter sock out I have to lift up the lid/bulkhead/plumbing. It's very difficult and puts a strain on the pipes
Do you go hard PVC straight from drain bulkhead into sump? How do you do it? You can look at my www site. I went flex tubing to my sump so I could move it around, but I'm beginning to think that was a mistake. Should I forget about using a filter sock, hardline everything, and just accept that I can't really get into my first chamber anymore? SHould I even be using a bulkhead? Should I even be using a lid?
Should I just trash the lid and bulkhead and plumb a pipe straight into the sump?
How do most people do it? And for those people that use a filter sock, where do you put it that allows you to remove it easily without having to break plumbing apart?
Thank You
Josh
There were some assumptions and constraints I was designing around that maybe I shouldn't have.
1) Do I need a filter sock? And if you use one, how do you plumb so as to be able to get to it and remove it?
2) How do you plumb your drain to sump connection? My sump had a lid with a hole, so I installed a bulkhead in the hole. But now the issue is that to get my filter sock out I have to lift up the lid/bulkhead/plumbing. It's very difficult and puts a strain on the pipes
Do you go hard PVC straight from drain bulkhead into sump? How do you do it? You can look at my www site. I went flex tubing to my sump so I could move it around, but I'm beginning to think that was a mistake. Should I forget about using a filter sock, hardline everything, and just accept that I can't really get into my first chamber anymore? SHould I even be using a bulkhead? Should I even be using a lid?
Should I just trash the lid and bulkhead and plumb a pipe straight into the sump?
How do most people do it? And for those people that use a filter sock, where do you put it that allows you to remove it easily without having to break plumbing apart?
Thank You
Josh
I think I just uncovered the source of a lot of my noise. My pipes and the walls of the tank and stand resonate with the same sound/vibrations as my return pump.
I noticed that when I grip my return pipe in my hand the noise goes away. The pipes are vibrating along with the pump and this causes the pipes to radiate the sound/vibrations to the tank walls, stand walls, etc.
My return pump is hard lined into my PVC return pipes. How do I prevent the vibrations of the pump from transmitting to the pipes? Is it even possible to prevent this if they are direct glued together? If I could prevent it I would be very very happy.
Should I use vinyl tubing to connect my pump to my PVC return line? That would reduce a lot of the vibration transmission, but I worry about vinyl tubing's integrity.
Any thoughts?
Or should my goal be to keep the pump from vibrating?
BTW my other pump (skimmer pump), is the same model (Mag 7), and it connects to my skimmer via Vinyl tube and it doesn't transmit vibrations at all and is mighty quiet.
Ideas?
Thanks
Josh
I noticed that when I grip my return pipe in my hand the noise goes away. The pipes are vibrating along with the pump and this causes the pipes to radiate the sound/vibrations to the tank walls, stand walls, etc.
My return pump is hard lined into my PVC return pipes. How do I prevent the vibrations of the pump from transmitting to the pipes? Is it even possible to prevent this if they are direct glued together? If I could prevent it I would be very very happy.
Should I use vinyl tubing to connect my pump to my PVC return line? That would reduce a lot of the vibration transmission, but I worry about vinyl tubing's integrity.
Any thoughts?
Or should my goal be to keep the pump from vibrating?
BTW my other pump (skimmer pump), is the same model (Mag 7), and it connects to my skimmer via Vinyl tube and it doesn't transmit vibrations at all and is mighty quiet.
Ideas?
Thanks
Josh
BMitch
Member
The problem with putting vinyl tubing on the output of your return pump is that the hose barb will increase the head pressure and you'll get less flow.
On the other hand, why not use vinyl tubing from the return pump to where the PVC goes up through the overflow box. That way you won't need all those PVC rigid 45's that reduce the flow. You'll likely end up getting more flow through the vinyl tubing.
On the other hand, why not use vinyl tubing from the return pump to where the PVC goes up through the overflow box. That way you won't need all those PVC rigid 45's that reduce the flow. You'll likely end up getting more flow through the vinyl tubing.
Another person also suggested using the vinyl tubing all the way. I have 2 issues with that, which maybe you can help dispel.
1. Routing is a pain, I can't really route the tubing where I want it. If I try to bend it, it may actually fold or kink.
2. Integrity and security. I've seen threads on here of people coming home to flooded rooms because the vinyl tubing slipped off.
If you can ease these 2 fears then I may go vinyl all the way.
My neighbor, who works for Ken Marine, says he uses vinyl tubing for return lines in all of his installations. So I know people do it, even professional, it just scares me. Glues PVC give me that warm and fuzzy feeling that I know it will never leak. Although conversly it amplifies all vibrations and noises.
Let me know if I should make the switch. I have plenty of 3/4" vinyl tubing.
Thanks
Josh
1. Routing is a pain, I can't really route the tubing where I want it. If I try to bend it, it may actually fold or kink.
2. Integrity and security. I've seen threads on here of people coming home to flooded rooms because the vinyl tubing slipped off.
If you can ease these 2 fears then I may go vinyl all the way.
My neighbor, who works for Ken Marine, says he uses vinyl tubing for return lines in all of his installations. So I know people do it, even professional, it just scares me. Glues PVC give me that warm and fuzzy feeling that I know it will never leak. Although conversly it amplifies all vibrations and noises.
Let me know if I should make the switch. I have plenty of 3/4" vinyl tubing.
Thanks
Josh
BMitch
Member
I checked out your website and had a couple questions:
1) Are you experiencing microbubbles in the display tank? I see your bubble trap is after the drain pipe but before the skimmer.
2) What are you doing for top off water? The return section of the sump appears rather small. This area is where you'll see the evaporation of water from the system and will need to top off with pure RO/DI water to keep your salinity and specific gravity remains near constant. Are you going to have an automatic top off or just fill by hand when needed?
1) Are you experiencing microbubbles in the display tank? I see your bubble trap is after the drain pipe but before the skimmer.
2) What are you doing for top off water? The return section of the sump appears rather small. This area is where you'll see the evaporation of water from the system and will need to top off with pure RO/DI water to keep your salinity and specific gravity remains near constant. Are you going to have an automatic top off or just fill by hand when needed?
1) There are no bubbles in the display caused by the return. My tank still has lots of cling-on bubbles from when I filled it, but i'll wipe them off someday.
The bubble trap removes all of the bubbles from the drain flow. When the drain hits the first chamber it is highly airated, lots of bubbles. THey are removed. If they don't go through the trap and get pumped to my skimmer they are removed there. The EV180 is well engineerd and doesn't output any bubbles.
Funny enough even though no bubbles are around by the time the water flows into the return chamber, the effect of going over the last set of tines does add some bubbles, but for some reason they pop before going through the pump. So no, no bubbles in display from return.
2) I have an RO/DI system, and I have a float valve designed for the system. So I could plumb in auto top off and never worry about it again, however my RO/DI is installed in my kitchen 20 feet away so that kind of shoots that idea in the foot. Worst case I run the hose over a few times a week for a few minutes to top it off.
The bubble trap removes all of the bubbles from the drain flow. When the drain hits the first chamber it is highly airated, lots of bubbles. THey are removed. If they don't go through the trap and get pumped to my skimmer they are removed there. The EV180 is well engineerd and doesn't output any bubbles.
Funny enough even though no bubbles are around by the time the water flows into the return chamber, the effect of going over the last set of tines does add some bubbles, but for some reason they pop before going through the pump. So no, no bubbles in display from return.
2) I have an RO/DI system, and I have a float valve designed for the system. So I could plumb in auto top off and never worry about it again, however my RO/DI is installed in my kitchen 20 feet away so that kind of shoots that idea in the foot. Worst case I run the hose over a few times a week for a few minutes to top it off.
mmoore0803
Premium Member
so where are the fulltank and filter pix? How goes the electrical rewiring? I might be tagging along on monday if the rain has passed
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