Just got PAR sensor and multimeter am I doomed?

[kissman]

Just ran some PAR tests on my 6x54w Nova Extreme Pro that's over my 55g. All bulbs were replaced in Jan. Par at the top of tank under light is 660, under surface of water 500, top of rock 220 and sand bed is 140. Will I be able to keep SPS or do I just need to save and buy a new fixture?

 

[afernandez]

those #"S are great you should be able to keep sps anywhere including the sand bed*
(* with careful planning)

 

[Frick]

The most useful thing you can do with that meter is to keep checking the PAR in those spots as the bulbs get older or if you try a different brand and combination of lamps. This will help you get her very best efficiency from your T5 fixture.

 

[Touring]

I follow this

Stylophora 700 - 1000
Pocillopora 600 - 900
Acropora 600 - 1000
Montipora 400 - 800
Seriatopora 500-900


Here's a good read.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2006/1/lines/view

 

[kissman]

not one coral in this pic is over 530 par most are less than 400. wide range of thoughts

http://www.vividaquariums.com/aquariumLightExperiment.asp

 

[kissman]

not sure how accurate this is

http://www.answers.seneye.com/index...lp/what_is_PAR_?/marine_coral_reef_PAR_levels

 

[karsseboom]

That par sounds good to me. I would try to keep them off the sand bed though, just for better colors.

 

[NeilFox]

I think Kissman already knows the answer! He is just showing off :lol2:

 

[805mike]

What about just dropping the fixture, so its closer to the surface?

 

[kissman]

I think Kissman already knows the answer! He is just showing off :lol2:

not really I was actually hoping to be about 100 PAR higher everywhere, lol

What about just dropping the fixture, so its closer to the surface?

can't the fixture is already sitting on tank 2 1/2" above

 

[jda]

I would treat those numbers as anecdotal and a baseline reference for your own tank. For a better reference, check out some of the awesome tanks that are already under 6x54w that look great. If you want to do anything, then if you like a particular tank, then you can use the same bulb combo.

 

[Zstriker]

What is your current bulb lineup?

Forgive me for not knowing, but is that fixture cooled? If not, could you run a small fan across the label end side of the bulbs?

 

[NeilFox]

What is your current bulb lineup?

Forgive me for not knowing, but is that fixture cooled? If not, could you run a small fan across the label end side of the bulbs?

What would that accomplish? And why the lable end? I wouldn't think it would matter. Sorry to hijack the thread but I am curious about this.

Thanks

Neil

 

[ksicard]

If you don't mind me asking, where did you get your par meter and how much did it cost. I think I would like to get one as well =)

 

[Breadman03]

What would that accomplish? And why the lable end? I wouldn't think it would matter. Sorry to hijack the thread but I am curious about this.

Thanks

Neil

IIRC, the label end is the hot end. Using a fan to keep the bulb in it's ideal operating temperature range will maximize the useful life of the bulb.

 

[kissman]

4 ATI BLUE +
1 ATI CORAL +
1 ATI PURPLE +

Yes the unit is cooled with 2 fans that blow through all labels are on the end with fans

 

[Zstriker]

What would that accomplish? And why the lable end? I wouldn't think it would matter. Sorry to hijack the thread but I am curious about this.

Thanks

Neil

Extends life of bulbs dramatically and can increase or decrease PAR by 20%....over cooling is just as bad as under cooling. Label end is the side to be cooled. Do a search if you are interested in more info. There is a reason why the ATI t5 fixtures are PAR monsters...they have the cooling science down pat!

 

[Zstriker]

4 ATI BLUE +
1 ATI CORAL +
1 ATI PURPLE +

Yes the unit is cooled with 2 fans that blow through all labels are on the end with fans

Did you check par with the fans off on that unit? Does it have a shield?

As far as your bulb setup - I'd look into swapping the Purple Plus with another Coral Plus, if you want to get a jump in PAR. An aqua blue special would be even more helpful in increasing PAR.

To be honest though, I think if you keep your sticks up mid to high, your corals will be just fine.

If you are in love with your current bulb combo, but still want more PAR, I'd add an royal blue LED strip (either DIY or reefbrite). You could likely DIY for around $100, and you'd get the POP and some added PAR.

 

[Zstriker]

Also - was flow turned on during readings?

 

[kissman]

Extends life of bulbs dramatically and can increase or decrease PAR by 20%....over cooling is just as bad as under cooling. Label end is the side to be cooled. Do a search if you are interested in more info. There is a reason why the ATI t5 fixtures are PAR monsters...they have the cooling science down pat!

This is very true from what I have read. I didn't know this until the last time I changed out my bulbs

Did you check par with the fans off on that unit? Does it have a shield?

As far as your bulb setup - I'd look into swapping the Purple Plus with another Coral Plus, if you want to get a jump in PAR. An aqua blue special would be even more helpful in increasing PAR.

To be honest though, I think if you keep your sticks up mid to high, your corals will be just fine.

If you are in love with your current bulb combo, but still want more PAR, I'd add an royal blue LED strip (either DIY or reefbrite). You could likely DIY for around $100, and you'd get the POP and some added PAR.

I might look into changing out a bulb or two and see what happens. I do like the closer to 20k blue look that I have. I am not really sold on this fixture the more and more I think about the more and more I may save and buy 2 AI Hydra's and go LED's

Also - was flow turned on during readings?

Yes the flow was on. In my opinion if I have the flow off and test PAR it wont be the same PAR as I have when the Hydor's are on. The corals will be under the flow of the surface 24 seven.