just sharing my hollow and interchangeable reef program

flyyyguy

King of the white corals
Premium Member
Ive been working on this little project for a couple of months now and finally its ready to share.

So here it is. My goal in this project was to:

1. absolute flow through every part of every rock and every part of the tank. there might be 70lbs of rock tops in this 225 gallon tank. There are 12 rocks total in this tank ranging from 3-8 pounds each. Every rock in the tank is 100% visible and every rock is 100% independent, meaning no rocks are actually touching anything but water. No rocks are touching each other. Each rock is suspended by 3/4 acrylic rod and a 3/4" hole drilled into it. I used my existing acrylic rock lift program but had to extend many of the rods for the higher rocks as removing them and replacing under the dsb wasnt going to happen. I did this extension with epoxy and couple inch piece 3/4" pvc. All of the tallest back rocks(4 of them) I can actually spin in place at the extension joint and are somewhat mobile themselves. There is 12-14" of water underneath each of them. I foresee in the future replacing them with smaller rocks to account for coral growth and creating more space.

2. Being as I killed pretty much everything in both display tanks this last summer, it put my frag tank project on hold for a year or two as all my efforts and monies have went into rebuilding both of my systems. So in a sense, this tank is one big frag tank. Every single coral is pegged with 1/8 - 1/16 acrylic rod and is easily removable by simply lifting out of their holes. Every angle on every rock is usable for frag rubble plugs as I have hundreds of holes left for frags that are unused at the moment. In doing this pegging part of the project I went through over 20-20gram tubes of IC gel, a handful of aquamends, and 30 feet of thin acrylic rod

3. Following my theme of not wanting to see any equipment in my displays, I wanted in the FTS of this tank for there to be nothing visible but reef. With the exception of being able to see the spraybars in a couple places I accomplished that as well. Although from a side view and other angles, the rockwork does somewhat resemble a erector set. :) which it of course IS.

4. the entire reef from the rocks to the corals to the countless pieces of tonga branch is pegged making everything compeltely interchageable and removable with ease

I created something here ive never seen done before and am very pleased with it. My only regret is that I was having a hard time capturing the openness of the rockwork on film. I used lots of tonga branch creating an incredible look of depth....but unfortunately, this depth only really comes out in person as on film all of the pieces of tonga branch look like they are right next to each other when in fact there is a decent amount of space in between. The tank is 30" wide so where the corals look like theyare right next to each other in the pics...they are not. In the pics every little spot of black you see in between the rock work are not shadows, its the back wall of the tank. Some of the followign pics are going ot be blurry as I am taking angled shots through acrylic in an attempt at showing the depth

yadda, yadda, yadda......here are some pics



the first couple pics are at a angle that can show you the larger rocks suspended by a single 3/4" acrylic rod

DSC_8279.jpg


suspendedrocks.jpg


DSC_8300.jpg


DSC_8319.jpg


DSC_8391.jpg


frontlefttobackright.jpg


lefthalf.jpg


righthalf.jpg


side1.jpg
 
Very nice work. You get some sence of the depth in this pic.
lefthalf.jpg


Any chance you can shut your pumps off for a bit and take a top down pic? It would show off the depth better.
 
That is pretty freakin cool,looks great and I bet its gonna look 10 times better when all the corals fill in.
 
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Outstanding! I like it alot! Much better than a rock pile functionally and aesthetically. I bet your fish go nuts with places to swim between every rock.

Great Job!
-Luke
 
This is very cool. This is a much better idea than packing a box-o-rocks with a bunch of power-hungry pumps.

The efficiency of the flow has got to be high with this type of system.

Well done.
 
thanks meuser reef. although.......I cant say that I follow the theory of not using power hungry pumps. a hammerhead AND a barracuda move the water in this tank. :) Just the same...true everywhere flow was my goal and it doesnt matter how much flow you have if yoru rock is choking itself

a1amap- I cant find my other lens. part of the reason for the lack of depth in the pictures is the fact that I am standing across the room to down the hallway with my 1:1 macro lens. LOL A top down wouldnt show but a few square inches.

As far as room for growth......the frags come and go. Everything else from each rock to each piece of ton ga branch to every coral is pegged. Can move and swap everything very easily. I killed everything this summer so it is mostly a forest fo frags...but I like watching them grow and will move things around where I need to as they do. There is also a lot more space in between everything than it looks like. For instance, there is i would guess 15" in between the blue tort on the right side and the rose milli center of this pic

DSC_8402.jpg
 
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someone asked what I meant by extending the rods.....

here is my rocklift frame that sits under the sandbed

ebayrocklift.jpg


and the teeth i make in top of the rods that grip your rock like glue. no drilling of rock required...just throw it down

teeth-1.jpg


the rods are not glued in place so they can be lifted out and moved around....but for this project and wanting longer rods replacing them under a dsb wasnt going to happen....so I took a 3/4" piece of pipe which fit loosely around the acrylic rod.....tightened up the slack with epoxy and simply added a extension so I could suspend the back rocks a foot or more above the sandbed

here is the pvc extension for the acrylic rod

pvcextension.jpg
 
Those acrylic rods don't stay clear. Mine get coralline algae on them and are better looking when they're mostly hidden with rock.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11709728#post11709728 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WarrenG
Those acrylic rods don't stay clear. Mine get coralline algae on them and are better looking when they're mostly hidden with rock.


they are completely hidden with rock or coral from a front view of the tank

my point in this project had nothing to do with lifting the rock "invisibly". It was absolute flow through every part of every rock and every part of the reef and a place to put hundreds of corals with space in between, while still maintaining a decent looking display

Ive used acrylic rods to lift my rock for years and it is still the best option IMO regardless if they stay clear or not
 
In the photos they didn't all look hidden. I use the rods too and they are a great way to build a reef structure with more openness for flow, light, and fish swim-thrus.

I agree with you about the negatives of a pile of rocks against the back wall with the corals sitting on top.

I've watched many flame angels in the wild and all they do is swim in and through loose piles of staghorn coral rubble, and in my tank the flame spends almost all of it's time swimming through the rocks and picking at stuff.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11710274#post11710274 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WarrenG
In the photos they didn't all look hidden.
.

thanks for the criticism....but the point of half of those photos was to SHOW what I did which i explained

from the front of the tank none of them can be seen.....from the sides it looks like a erector set.......which it IS
 
How did ou make the rock lift and cut the teeth in the lift? I like your idea and I am thinking about trying this on my next tank. Do you have a list of material needed?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11774251#post11774251 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by docwells
How did ou make the rock lift and cut the teeth in the lift? I like your idea and I am thinking about trying this on my next tank. Do you have a list of material needed?

material needed:

-1/2" scrap acrylic
-3/4" cast acrylic rod. i buy it from mcmaster carr
-weld on of some kind

tools:

table saw
bench grinder
drill press

None of those tools or materials I list here are mandatory with the exception of the 3/4" acrylic rod as there could be coutnless ways to build something that could have a bucnh of 3/4" sockets in it. But as far as the rod......ve played with all kinds of materials to lift rock and the 3/4" acrylic rod is far and above the best IMO.

how i make the frame....

the frame is scrap half inch acrylic. the finsihed frame is two layers of this tall...the top layer has 3/4" holes drilled completely through on my drill press before gluing it together. the 1/2" deep holes are what supports the 3/4" rods both with the teeth and then again on the drilled rock program i posted here. The rods are not glued in place nor do they need to be......they just sit in there holes so you can move them around however suits you....or at least movable before you throw a sandbed with any depth to it over the top of it. this is why i did the extensions with pvc on this project.........there was no way to replace the rods with taller ones without some serious effort so the extension was just a lot easier route....

the teeth are made with my POS $30 bench grinder from harbor freight. simply push the rod into the grinder at a 45 degree angle in quarters. The teeth do an amazing job of gripping your rock and making stacking a super stable base platform pretty dang easy.
 
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