"Kalkenstein" Style Reactor, Please Comment!

Kirin1

New member
I'm planing a "Kalkenstein" style kalk reactor. I just got the uniseals and the mj400, and I'm hoping a trip to Lowes will net the necessary plumbing supplies.

Here's pic of a finished example of what I'm thinking about, only I'll be using regular 4" PVC for the body, not the clear stuff pictured.
107508kalk-reactor-med.jpg


Also, the input for this unit is on the recirc loop, controlled via ball valve. My input will be through the top with the tube extending most of the way to the bottom. I will control output rate with a small airline-style ball valve on 1/4 OD tubing. (this will be on my 5.5gal for now, so I don't need much output)

The Kalkenstein Reactor design is my starting point for a parts list.
107508KalkensteinSmall.jpg


I'm looking for input on the design in a few areas:
  • lid options--I'm trying to do this without the screws and gasket method. I am thinking to use 1/4 JG fittings in the lid for in/out.
  • Pump Installation- the "all internal" design vs the Recirc Loop. Pros/Cons?
  • Pump Installation- How to connect a Maxi-Jet to the recirc loop?

Anyone with ideas, suggestions or examples (w/pics pls) please post!
 
Looks like you have a good plan. If it works well you can build one for me too. ;)

Won't the ball valve on the airline get clogged?
 
I had a very similar kalk reactor but the maxi-jet died on me after about 2 months. I hope you have more luck with yours. I'm going to switch to a magnetic stirrer.
FB
 
badfish: I have no idea where I got the Kalkenstein sheet.
Someone posted it in one forum or another and I coppied it. I believe they said they got it at a seminar or some such put on by GEO where they got to build one.

FishBulb: Ah! Sparkle-San! Very Special soap from Sacred Forrest of Hokaido! You have Verry Rucky Dishes!
I've been reading about pump wear vs stir bar wear. Some say that with minimal to zero air contact, the little shards of hard stuff don't form. I'm hoping that when necessarty I'll just switch out the impeller.

Was it your impeller, or did the MJ burn out? Also, is your unit still in use (have you switched yet), and do you have pics?
 
Oh, i'm not sure if it's the pump or the impeller. When I try to run the pump even in the sink, it just puts our no flow and rattles. The impeller does spin but not much. I took the reactor offline and haven't done the mod yet. It's pretty basic though. I'll just plug up the holes and remove all or the pump fittings. Then I can hopefully get a nice cheap used stir plate from the university and be off.
FB
 
If you are going through the trouble to build this, I would go with clear acrylic (cheap on ebay). The extra cost is neglible and I think you will appreciate it later on. 3" tube would work with a 3" PVC cap.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8937219#post8937219 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishbulb2
I took the reactor offline and haven't done the mod yet. It's pretty basic though. I'll just plug up the holes and remove all or the pump fittings. Then I can hopefully get a nice cheap used stir plate from the university and be off.
FB

Sounds like a plan.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8937219#post8937219 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fishbulb2
Oh, i'm not sure if it's the pump or the impeller. When I try to run the pump even in the sink, it just puts our no flow and rattles. The impeller does spin but not much.

If your MJ rattles when plugged in, then the unit is energizing. That means it's the probably the impeller (not sure realy), so you can maybe re-use the powerhead even if it's not part of your reactor anymore.

An LFS here in MD carries MJ impellers. Not sure where you could get one on line...
 
3" tube would work with a 3" PVC cap.

Will it? Acrylic is measured in OD. I don't think pvc is. I know that for a 3" union you need 3 1/2" acrylic (assuming your acrylic is 1/4". But maybe those caps are exactly 3"?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8937469#post8937469 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by shelburn61
If you are going through the trouble to build this, I would go with clear acrylic (cheap on ebay). The extra cost is neglible and I think you will appreciate it later on. 3" tube would work with a 3" PVC cap.

Ebay? Hm...I must go look. I looked at SAVCO, and they only sell in 10ft lengths at about $18 a foot. Thanks!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8937680#post8937680 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by prance1520
Will it? Acrylic is measured in OD. I don't think pvc is. I know that for a 3" union you need 3 1/2" acrylic (assuming your acrylic is 1/4". But maybe those caps are exactly 3"?

That's the advantage of getting it all at the local HW Store, I can dry-fit in the isles. The Acrylic however would look much better, and allow me to observe kalk level and mixing action.
 
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