Kent RX P

Avoid it if you have wrasses. It killed two wrasses I had. I did not connect its use to the deaths until the second Wrasse died the next day after RXP use. Neither Wrasse had ich and was eating and otherwise healthy. Every fish I put in my tank use to get ich after 3 days (like clockwork). I now do not treat for ich and subscribe to the theory that I either have poor nutrition or have water problems. When I started looking at those factors my ich prolblems have disappeared. The last four fish i added have not shown any signs of ich. I know ChadC has much more experience than I have, but I will not use RXP again.
 
I am not a fan of treating for ICH except in extreme cases. Usually, good water parameters and proper husbandry are enough to win the war of ICH.

dave
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7656478#post7656478 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Nanook
I am not a fan of treating for ICH except in extreme cases. Usually, good water parameters and proper husbandry are enough to win the war of ICH.

dave


What Dave said!! If your water is good and your fish are healthy then they will bet it on there on.
IMO ich treatment is smoke and mirrors it is always in your water.
 
hmm.
i didn't break out til after i did a big water change. but one of my pumps became disconnected and stirred up a bunch of crap.
i'm thinking they got stressed and it broke out.

the only dietary change i made was having seaweed available 24/7 instead of once every 3 days.
 
I agree that a lot of stuff can be smoke and mirrors,but I have used rxp too many times with good results to say it doesnt work.
I also agree that with a properly maintaned tank and healthy livestock you can win the ich battle without chemicals.
Thats one thing about this hobby is everyone has different ideas and opinions which is what makes it so interesting and challenging ! There is definately more than 1 way to skin a cat.:D
 
If you have seaweed available 24/7 make sure you get any piecies that break off. If your fish do not eat it, it will contribute to Nitrates as well. Also if you did a big water change did you add TLC or Stability to help quickly replenish bacteria. Every since I have been using stability and Purigen I have been able to keep my Nitrates below 5ppm (woriking towards that undetectable range), before that I was always 25-30 no matter what I did. I have not changed my feeding habits. They are fed Seawead is placed in the tank in the morning and the evenings, and they get small feeding everyday with a larger feeding every other day (use a variety of foods). Also, use Kalkwasser with Vinegar. This mix helps feed the Nitrafying bacteria. Kalkwasser, Purigen and Stability this combination along with alternating % weekly water changes 10%, 15%, 20%, 15%, 10%, etc. I have been trying to get the system to manage itself when it comes t the ammonia cycle. I think I was originally doing big water changes to frequently and was hampering the ability for the Nitrafying bacteria to do its job. I also stopped using my UV sterilizer. I use a Phosphate reactor to keep my Phosphates undetectable. I am new to this hobby but, I finally feel like I am not up against the wall. Progress is finally being made. Everyone has different things that work, but my Corals and Fish have never looked happier. Sorry if these came off like a small rant
 
i am glad for the rant.
can't get to much information and opinions when it comes to something like this.
the seaweed seems to disappear. i think the snails usually get on there. but i'm sure the occasional peice floats off. for the most part it all gets eaten.
 
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