Large Build

Not easy to keep your eyes on 4 lionfish, while you do any 'in tank' maintenance... Also don't recommend them for a home with young children...

No one will be getting in the stocked tank..... the top of the tank has 3 34x34 openings and I just picked up 3 sheets of 1/4 36x36 glass to cover them. There will also be a canopy built down the road so there isn't any chance of wandering hands.
 
No one will be getting in the stocked tank..... the top of the tank has 3 34x34 openings and I just picked up 3 sheets of 1/4 36x36 glass to cover them. There will also be a canopy built down the road so there isn't any chance of wandering hands.

Hopefully not 'famous last words'... as I said, it is very hard to watch 4 lions, not to mention other aggressive fish, while your hands are in tank ... And I'm sure that you will be reaching into tank to feed them, maybe 'pet' the sharks, etc... all things that children will remember and maybe like to try themselves... If you're putting glass covers over the openings, I would suggest 'glueing' some type of corner brackets to prevent tops from being slid out of the way...
 
Hopefully not 'famous last words'... as I said, it is very hard to watch 4 lions, not to mention other aggressive fish, while your hands are in tank ... And I'm sure that you will be reaching into tank to feed them, maybe 'pet' the sharks, etc... all things that children will remember and maybe like to try themselves... If you're putting glass covers over the openings, I would suggest 'glueing' some type of corner brackets to prevent tops from being slid out of the way...

Great idea.

As far as feeding and routine maintenance I was going to get a couple of those magnets everyone has been raving about on here for the acrylic to spot clean that. As far as feeding I have a feeding stick, and hopefully most of the COC will survive the tankmates and to their job lol. I suppose if I absolutely need to get in the tank "arms and hands only" My wife could provide back up. Although if it ever does need to happen there will be video of this :lolspin:
 
Hey guys I need some help with this filter sock set up. I just made this box today and drilled the holes. My question is should I leave it right side up or right side down. Right side down would leave a 6" edge all the way around in case the socks got clogged and over flowed. I was planning on drilling holes so that it would drain back in to the sump if it ever did over flow. Second question is "IF" i did turn it right side down should I put filter floss on top of the socks and just have all 6 drains dump on the floss and then have it go into the socks OR just have each 2" pipe dump directly into each sock? Also if its right side down the sock touches the bottom of the sump by about an inch or so....will this be an issue?
 

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The sock area should always allow for overflow within the sump. People get lazy about changing the socks. Adding filter floss just makes more to clean up. It should not be a big deal that the socks touch the bottom, but this suggests your sump is not tall enough to begin with. It's okay to let the drain pipes aim directly into the socks, but this guarantees overflow as the socks generally tend to fill at 3-4 days.

Dave.M
 
The sock area should always allow for overflow within the sump. People get lazy about changing the socks. Adding filter floss just makes more to clean up. It should not be a big deal that the socks touch the bottom, but this suggests your sump is not tall enough to begin with. It's okay to let the drain pipes aim directly into the socks, but this guarantees overflow as the socks generally tend to fill at 3-4 days.

Dave.M

My sump is 16" tall...8ft long 3ft wide. I purchased this tank from a friend who gave me a good deal on it and that the only reason I am using it. I am limited to space under my tank but with the box I made giving me an extra 6" of safety I think it will work out well.

Does anyone have an MRC-7 they are currently running and can send me some pics of how they plumbed it? I do not know much about these and finding a manual and getting actual support from MRC has not been easy.
 
Kevin, I made a DIY sock holder of sorts that would work really well for your system. PM me if you want to see pics or anything else like that. I'm more than happy to help you out if you like.
 
Here are a couple pics last night. I was able to complete one return and one closed loop system. I ran out of 1 1/2" pvc. I got the top part of the other return manifold done and will hopefully be able to get the other closed loop and return pump done tonight. All that is really left as far as plumbing goes is the drain lines and the last two pumps. Then leak check which I hope will take place this weekend.
 

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Did some work this weekend. All of the drains are plumbed except one. I am waiting on one more bulk head to arrive. The only plumbing left to do will be for the skimmer which still needs to be purchased. I am going with a Lifereef VS3-72. I feel this will be a better skimmer than the MRC-7 that I currently have up for sale in the for sale section here if anyone is interested.
 

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Yes, i have a custom acrylic box i made with unions for ea sock.

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk

There will be plywood veneered with stone for the bottom, ea panel will be on a rail/clip type system that all I have to do is lift off in order to get to the sump or anything under the tank. I know it will be a pain to climb under and access I know this but I wanted the sump pushed back to the back to reduce head and give me more room in the front in case I had to add anything in the future. It looks right but it is pretty roomy. The sump is only 16" high and 22" high where the filter socks go. See above posts where I posted pics of the filter sock tray.
 
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Did some work this weekend. All of the drains are plumbed except one. I am waiting on one more bulk head to arrive. The only plumbing left to do will be for the skimmer which still needs to be purchased. I am going with a Lifereef VS3-72. I feel this will be a better skimmer than the MRC-7 that I currently have up for sale in the for sale section here if anyone is interested.

When you need to change filter socks do you have to remove the union and 90 deg bend that leads into the sock itself? You will actually improve performance of the socks if the pipes do not feed directly into the sock. And it will be much easier to change them. But if you did that you'd obviously need to plug those 3 extra holes and drill safety overflows in the side instead. Still, something to consider.
 
When you need to change filter socks do you have to remove the union and 90 deg bend that leads into the sock itself? You will actually improve performance of the socks if the pipes do not feed directly into the sock. And it will be much easier to change them. But if you did that you'd obviously need to plug those 3 extra holes and drill safety overflows in the side instead. Still, something to consider.

Yes there is about 8" of pipe leading in to the sock, reason is I have ready that it will quite down the water noise and decrease bubbles. As far as plugging up the 4 holes in the middle, why would I need to do that? I have those there so if the water does back up and over flow a sock it drains directly back in to the sump. Help me out if I am missing something or doing something that will result in a mishap please!
 
Did some work this weekend. All of the drains are plumbed except one. I am waiting on one more bulk head to arrive. The only plumbing left to do will be for the skimmer which still needs to be purchased. I am going with a Lifereef VS3-72. I feel this will be a better skimmer than the MRC-7 that I currently have up for sale in the for sale section here if anyone is interested.

I just installed a 60" VS3...and its working great. I have a DC 3000 gph pump on it.
 
I just installed a 60" VS3...and its working great. I have a DC 3000 gph pump on it.

After thinking about it, I am going to hold on to what I have and just use it for the time being. May change out the hammerhead and use two DCT15000 to run it. I don't know yet.
 
Yes there is about 8" of pipe leading in to the sock, reason is I have ready that it will quite down the water noise and decrease bubbles. As far as plugging up the 4 holes in the middle, why would I need to do that? I have those there so if the water does back up and over flow a sock it drains directly back in to the sump. Help me out if I am missing something or doing something that will result in a mishap please!

Yes, I'll clarify. The way you have it now those holes in the center are for overflow. I agree they are necessary.

If you changed your drain lines so the pipes did not extend into the socks then you'd need to cover those holes and re-drill on one side or think of another option. BUT, this would make the socks more efficient, reduce micro bubbles from your current configuration, and make the socks easier to change (i.e., no need to remove 6 unions each time you change socks).
 
Yes, I'll clarify. The way you have it now those holes in the center are for overflow. I agree they are necessary.

If you changed your drain lines so the pipes did not extend into the socks then you'd need to cover those holes and re-drill on one side or think of another option. BUT, this would make the socks more efficient, reduce micro bubbles from your current configuration, and make the socks easier to change (i.e., no need to remove 6 unions each time you change socks).

I am hoping with the sump being 8ft long with a few baffles in it already there wont be any micro bubbles that make it back to the DT.
 
Here is an update with the sand, I didn't know how to find my original post but here is the thread I started the other day. I will keep everything in this OP from here on out.

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2590378

This is the sand bedding update and then last night I had some time to lay out all the rock that I have. Once the rest of the flat rock comes in I will start scapping.
 

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