keep us posted, i want to hear how well 3 units of ai will perform over a 180G.
LED Recommendation Thread
- Thread starter Felixc395
- Start date
keep us posted, i want to hear how well 3 units of ai will perform over a 180G.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
22 gauge. Tin the pads 1st, then tin the wire...will solder like a charm.
Felixc395
Registered Member
Yes, please keep us updated! Pics are always better!
And I get my two sols tomorrow! Im so pumped!
igadget56
Member
Anybody think these would work? http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-PAR-Bulbs/Categories
I have a 125 gallon 72" long 24" deep. I'm wondering if these would work and
how many I would need? You could make a rack with sockets in it for however
many you need. That way you could buy one every couple weeks. Say I started
with 2 That Way maybe I could get my first piece of coral. If they would work
how far from the surface should they be. Probably a Hair brain idea but I would
try it anybody thought I could get by with six of these. Could always split them
later. Anybody give me your thoughts.
I have a 125 gallon 72" long 24" deep. I'm wondering if these would work and
how many I would need? You could make a rack with sockets in it for however
many you need. That way you could buy one every couple weeks. Say I started
with 2 That Way maybe I could get my first piece of coral. If they would work
how far from the surface should they be. Probably a Hair brain idea but I would
try it anybody thought I could get by with six of these. Could always split them
later. Anybody give me your thoughts.
TheFishMan65
New member
Does not say what type of lenses are on them. BUT from what I understand PAR bulbs tend to be more spotlight than most fixtures. So if you want even coverage you actually need more LEDs than with most fixtures. No if you only want a few corals or in limited location maybe that would work for you.
But a standard 72 will need 50-100 3 watts LEDs (according to the DIY numbers) that would be 7 to 14 of these PAR 38s.
But a standard 72 will need 50-100 3 watts LEDs (according to the DIY numbers) that would be 7 to 14 of these PAR 38s.
TheFishMan65
New member
That would work, or mount them 2 or more off the surface and uses lenses.
Anyone have any experience with the Thomas Research drivers? I saw on their website they make a driver thats 0-10v dimmable in the 200w Series (TRC-200S140DT). I was looking to try and wire one of these up with some XM-Ls in series. Also, if at all possible, I want to avoid wiring in parallel since I really don't want to balance out strings, use fuses, etc etc etc. Any good high voltage drivers out there that would let me do this? Also, what are the draw backs to using a high voltage drivers besides the obvious that if there were a short, I could get zapped pretty good. On that note, could I run a wire down from the heatsink to a ground to prevent me from getting zapped if I touch the heatsink?
madweazl
Member
I did read the 2 .pdf files. No clue on those setups, that is why I'm asking. Looks like to get what I really want, I'll just have to build it myself. Gonna start mocking things up in the next few days. Thinking I'll go with the Profilux II entry level setup to control the lighting but I just started researching it.
TheFishMan65
New member
fns,
not just a good zap, but maybe death. kcress did a good post on the danger of high voltage. But basically the way I (and I think most) took it was that anything over 50 volts we need to be really careful with. So IMHO that would me covering each connection, grounds, fuses (still, but really really very fast blow), and who know what else. Thanks, I will just balance the strings. But some here did a real nice one, but he understood all the risks.
not just a good zap, but maybe death. kcress did a good post on the danger of high voltage. But basically the way I (and I think most) took it was that anything over 50 volts we need to be really careful with. So IMHO that would me covering each connection, grounds, fuses (still, but really really very fast blow), and who know what else. Thanks, I will just balance the strings. But some here did a real nice one, but he understood all the risks.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
brassmonkyballs
BMB
it won't matter
probably due to my technical background, i understand the diagram pretty alright. you just have to follow mode 3 and you will get 6 royal blue and 6 white xp-e on 2 tr dimmable drivers. you then connect the control wires of the drivers to your profilux to get your sunset and sunrise effect.
I have seen a demonstration in a trade show, audience can actually play with the meter and the competing bulbs in various situtations. the par value of the one in your link is no where near the par38 from wingoled. some differences are as high as 40 percent! the selling price are similar. these lights actually go on track light heads that can tilt and swivel, so I would just go to home depot and a get track and end plugs and get track light heads from wingoled because they have a brushed nickle color track head matching the light for only $18. you should be ok with 8 of them. you will need a minimum of 12 to go with rapid.
make sure you make the hole on the acrylics bigger so that it can move around. the splash guard of my first build with standoffs cracks because acrylics expands upon absorbing moisture.
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