macclellan
New member
Should produce less algae on glass too. That's always nice...
LED Retrofit for 24G Nano
- Thread starter Runner
- Start date
Runner
Active member
We'll see about the algae -- it won't be any worse because the PAR readings at the glass are very low.
As for the heat sink, it is the same as the one I already have -- 5.9"W x 9"L. The base plate is 3/8" thick and it has 14 1" deep fins. If I was doing this again, though, I'd go a little bit longer and narrower in the profile next time so that the light goes more towards the sides and less along the back wall. My mushrooms and GSP are having a rough time in the 400 to 600 PAR light that is hitting them now.
As for the heat sink, it is the same as the one I already have -- 5.9"W x 9"L. The base plate is 3/8" thick and it has 14 1" deep fins. If I was doing this again, though, I'd go a little bit longer and narrower in the profile next time so that the light goes more towards the sides and less along the back wall. My mushrooms and GSP are having a rough time in the 400 to 600 PAR light that is hitting them now.
Runner
Active member
I'd sell it for $10, but local pickup only. If you needed to order one, rapidled sells them here:
http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-Heat-Sinks/s/10/Categories
They even have pre-tapped holes if you want to go their route.
http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-Heat-Sinks/s/10/Categories
They even have pre-tapped holes if you want to go their route.
Runner
Active member
See the following link for a decent write-up on how to use basically the same method I used:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17783831&postcount=4994
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17783831&postcount=4994
macclellan
New member
I have a few questions about the build:
It's interesting that you went 12 mixed on one driver and 4 blues on the other. Care to elaborate the thinking on that?
Do you get any light bleeding out of the vent holes?
Any thoughts as to why the blues are so friggin bright, watt-wise, compared to the whites? That's the opposite of what common sense would say.
Since you asked and because I'm the nerdy secretary, I'll be the spelling/grammar police :reading:
Second sentence: I think you meant that the consideration "became" active.
"They" in the last sentence, first paragraph is ambiguous. Better: "These suppliers"
Third paragraph, second sentence: "to attached" > "to attach"
I didn't understand this: "Experience has shown me that I did not need so much from the tank water space. If I ever do this again, I would cover over a bit more of the fans with the LED space." Do you mean by having the acrylic overlap over the fans there, or?...
Under the "New Hood Ventilation" Photo: "only needed" should be "only needing"
"This pic is the work in progress: the only thing missing is the low voltage connections to the hood." > Should be: "only things missing are"
There is some unrecognized code after the assembling the LED driver panel photo:
"Switch" is misspelled in the following paragraph. "Hide" too.
"measure PAR" should probably be "measured PAR"
It's interesting that you went 12 mixed on one driver and 4 blues on the other. Care to elaborate the thinking on that?
Do you get any light bleeding out of the vent holes?
Any thoughts as to why the blues are so friggin bright, watt-wise, compared to the whites? That's the opposite of what common sense would say.
Since you asked and because I'm the nerdy secretary, I'll be the spelling/grammar police :reading:
Second sentence: I think you meant that the consideration "became" active.
"They" in the last sentence, first paragraph is ambiguous. Better: "These suppliers"
Third paragraph, second sentence: "to attached" > "to attach"
I didn't understand this: "Experience has shown me that I did not need so much from the tank water space. If I ever do this again, I would cover over a bit more of the fans with the LED space." Do you mean by having the acrylic overlap over the fans there, or?...
Under the "New Hood Ventilation" Photo: "only needed" should be "only needing"
"This pic is the work in progress: the only thing missing is the low voltage connections to the hood." > Should be: "only things missing are"
There is some unrecognized code after the assembling the LED driver panel photo:
"Switch" is misspelled in the following paragraph. "Hide" too.
"measure PAR" should probably be "measured PAR"
Runner
Active member
Hey, Joel. Thanks for the grammer and spelling check. I do not see the coding error you referred to. As for the questions, I might work the responses into the build thread.
I originally chose a mix of 6 white and 6 royal blues because the driver I selected could handle the voltage drop of 12 LEDs easily - while 13 LEDs is possible but pushing it. The whites put out much higher lumens per watt and I was concerned some about the color being only about 10000K. When I got the LEDs, 5 of the 6 royal blues were mis-wired, but usuable with caution. One of the 6 white LEDs was totally bad, so I had them send me another. Since I was waiting for it, I decided to add a dawn/dusk light and thus ordered 4 royal blues and a simple driver. I really wanted just 2, but the driver couldn't go lower than 3 in series (it needed to see a minimal load). I might do a different layout now -- like go with a different type driver only handles up to 6 LEDs each and use 18 LEDs with four drivers (one with 6 whites, one with 2 whites and 2 blues, one with 6 blues, and one with 2 blues for dawn/dusk light).
EDIT: I found the non-breaking space that ended up in a quote. Thanks.
I originally chose a mix of 6 white and 6 royal blues because the driver I selected could handle the voltage drop of 12 LEDs easily - while 13 LEDs is possible but pushing it. The whites put out much higher lumens per watt and I was concerned some about the color being only about 10000K. When I got the LEDs, 5 of the 6 royal blues were mis-wired, but usuable with caution. One of the 6 white LEDs was totally bad, so I had them send me another. Since I was waiting for it, I decided to add a dawn/dusk light and thus ordered 4 royal blues and a simple driver. I really wanted just 2, but the driver couldn't go lower than 3 in series (it needed to see a minimal load). I might do a different layout now -- like go with a different type driver only handles up to 6 LEDs each and use 18 LEDs with four drivers (one with 6 whites, one with 2 whites and 2 blues, one with 6 blues, and one with 2 blues for dawn/dusk light).
None out of the holes I drilled because the heatsink is in the way. I get some out of the existing side holes, but it is indirect reflection because the LEDs naturally have an effective 100 to 110 degree down angle (50 to 55 degrees off vertical). I've actually thought about painting the sides and front of my LED cover, but haven't been motivated to do so yet.
They are much dimmer, actually -- about 35 lumens per Watt compared to about 140 lumens per Watt. But the PAR they put out is in the major color-spectrum that the meter measures in.
EDIT: I found the non-breaking space that ended up in a quote. Thanks.
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macclellan
New member
Does it cost more to use several weaker drivers like that? What you mention here seems very flexible for tweaking. I like that...
I get that the bulbs are relatively weak individually, so you have to mix/match to get a good look visually, which is what it sounds like you have now (the main, mixed bank).
Right, I meant in terms of PAR, not lumens. I guess I forget how disassociated PAR and "looking bright to us" can be. I wonder if the straight blues are actually good at growing anything by themselves though? The PAR suggests so, but that still seems 'weird.'
myohmymusicman
New member
i am considering doing something very similar to my own tank
Runner
Active member
Let me know if you have any questions. I'd be happy make suggestions. Even on a DIY project, it seems that an LED fixture ends up costing more than the rest of the tank/sump/filter/stand combined.
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