LED Trends?

Meanwell ELN-60-48D Drivers are 0-10V controllable, so Arduino will be difficult, you will need a PWM to 0-10V analog converter. Also you probably know they do not turn off. Lowest you will get to is 15% brightness. Easiest way to do full off is Meanwell LDD drivers with Arduino or ready made controller like Storm, Bluefish, etc. See my thread on LDD, its 1000 pages long now though. :-)
 
Meanwell ELN-60-48D Drivers are 0-10V controllable, so Arduino will be difficult, you will need a PWM to 0-10V analog converter. Also you probably know they do not turn off. Lowest you will get to is 15% brightness. Easiest way to do full off is Meanwell LDD drivers with Arduino or ready made controller like Storm, Bluefish, etc. See my thread on LDD, its 1000 pages long now though. :-)

I've read some threads that use Audrino to run the ELN-D drivers, but I wondered if they would shut off before they got very dim. Mine do now when dimming manually. Hell, the white lights are just about too bright just before they go out. I wouldn't like to have the same issue after an upgrade.

With the hardware I already have, would I simply need the Storm LED Controller, a LDD-4 Driver Board, and 4X Meanwell LDD-H Drivers to control 4 channels? That doesn't seem to be too costly. It also looks like the project box wouldn't have to be too large. Am I missing anything? Thanks.
 
It is my personal opinion, based on posts of many reefkeepers on many Internet resourses, no more.

I have necessary data. If you would like to know, I can indicate exact data from manufacturer's datasheets. If you don't need this, I would like to say only one thing. Cree - is first of all advertizing company. In day of introducing of MK-R Cree said "200LPW is commercially available now". Since then, year and a half has passed. Until now, is impossible to buy this LED. But many people believe about Cree has a champion efficacy. It is not true.

OK By the way, you don't need to buy high-CRI LED for your full-spectrum LED fixture. Because you will tune different part of spectrum with different colouring LEDs, isn't it? In this way you can achieve virtually any CRI for any CCT. Unfortunately, high-CRI LED has a bad efficacy.
The bit about my opinion? Don't worry about it. On re-reading, I realised you just meant what I was saying was a widespread opinion, but I didn't get that on first read, so I was confused.

Cree an advertising company? So are all the others. It may just be that some are currently (usually?) better at actually delivering what they advertise :p

I agree tuning the CRI is probably better done by buying the lower CRI (which tend to have better efficacy) and adding the other colours to recreate the same effect. But there are a couple of reasons I'm not currently going that way. It's easier, if you don't have good knowledge of such things, to just add some high CRI than work out exactly what balance of supplementary colours you need (lazy excuse). It also requires less channels and LEDs. For me, the less LEDs is becoming important as I'm basing my design upon lots of LEDs run on low power, very close to the water surface as they are going into an existing lid which restricts my options somewhat...

@reefgeezer if you change to use LDDs, all you need to control them is an arduino that has as many separate PWM channels as you want individual control (ie if you have 2 white, 2 blue and 2 royal blue that can be 3 channels as you can run multiple LDDs on one PWM signal), an RTC and a power supply for the arduino. Oh, and a computer to program the code for the arduino. If you want user control on the device, you need a screen (1602 LCD would suffice) and a joystick or button or two. Bits like that can be picked up for tiny amounts off eBay...

Tim
 
Tim, your opinion is smart, but one point is need to be discussed.
It also requires less channels and LEDs.
I'm sorry, but our research during 2 years was clear showed that at least 7 channel of differing and carefully selected LED should use for precision control of whole spectrum. I hope, this our article will be good presentation of our experience and will be useful for you: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2014/4/lighting
 
With the hardware I already have, would I simply need the Storm LED Controller, a LDD-4 Driver Board, and 4X Meanwell LDD-H Drivers to control 4 channels? That doesn't seem to be too costly. It also looks like the project box wouldn't have to be too large. Am I missing anything? Thanks.
You need power supply to power Meanwell LDDs.
 
Tim, your opinion is smart, but one point is need to be discussed.
I'm sorry, but our research during 2 years was clear showed that at least 7 channel of differing and carefully selected LED should use for precision control of whole spectrum. I hope, this our article will be good presentation of our experience and will be useful for you: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2014/4/lighting
I have read the article, and it is very interesting. And 7 channels, coupled with the reds I have for night time critter spotting (660nm) and the channel for controlling the scrubber LEDs (not to mention the channels for PWM control of fans) is quite a lot!

Don't get me wrong, if I wasn't limited in space I would be going for a different design, and I love the v3.0 of your 12x assembly. But, that will have to wait for the upgrade...

Tim
 
Did some more reading and I'm starting to understand the hardware. I think I'll split the 3W Crees I have into 5 channels so I don't have to wire any in Parallel: 1) 12 Royal Blue; 2) 12 Royal Blue; 3) 12 Cool White; 4) 12 UV (Violet); and 5) 8 Blue, 2 Red, & 2 Green.

I like the Arduino, DC/DC Driver, and power supplies option. Hopefully I can learn to code or find code to copy while I do the build. Thanks all. Don't stop giving advice though. I'm feeling a little more confident but I have a long way to go before I know what I'm doing.
 
Wow! Mean Well power supplies are $50 each. Maybe it's time to rethink. Refurbished ELN-60-48P Drivers are only $21 each and don't need a power supply - just a power cord. Does anyone have any other suggestions?
 
Wow! Mean Well power supplies are $50 each. Maybe it's time to rethink. Refurbished ELN-60-48P Drivers are only $21 each and don't need a power supply - just a power cord. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

But each of your 5 channels will require 1 ELN driver @ $21. That's $105 Vs. $50 for a Mean well power supply and 5 LDD-H at $7 each, equaling only $85 and a savings of $20 :rollface:
 
But each of your 5 channels will require 1 ELN driver @ $21. That's $105 Vs. $50 for a Mean well power supply and 5 LDD-H at $7 each, equaling only $85 and a savings of $20 :rollface:

Thanks for straightening me out. That's why I posted my thoughts. I'm still on the Dunce end of the learning curve... I thought I'd need a Mean Well 48 VDC power supply for each of the five 12 LED strings. :wildone:

Can you tell me how the Mean Well power supply would be connected to 5 LDD-H1000 Drivers to supply the proper voltage & current? If I wire the LDD-H drivers in parallel to the power supply will they each get 48 VDC @ 1000 ma? Thank you for your help. I need all I can get!
 
Thanks for straightening me out. That's why I posted my thoughts. I'm still on the Dunce end of the learning curve... I thought I'd need a Mean Well 48 VDC power supply for each of the five 12 LED strings. :wildone:

Can you tell me how the Mean Well power supply would be connected to 5 LDD-H1000 Drivers to supply the proper voltage & current? If I wire the LDD-H drivers in parallel to the power supply will they each get 48 VDC @ 1000 ma? Thank you for your help. I need all I can get!

Yes- Look for a 48V supply rated for more than 5 amps and use an "LDD-H mounting PcB". They're available from a few vendors or you can build your own from any of the many designs posted right here on RC.
 
So thanks to the RC crew maybe I can plan a control system. Check out my initial Bill of Materials...

1. Ardruino Mega2650 R3
2. LCD & Keypad Shield
3, Clock Module
4. 5up LDD-H Mounting PcB
5. 5X LDD-H Drivers
6. 48 VDC Power Supply
7. Project Box and misc. stuff TBD

Hopefully I can use this system to upgrade the control of a few other things in the future.
 
I would go with ready made controller if I were you. Arduino is not trivial. If you have no programming experience it's a steep learning curve.
 
Thanks for your concern. I considered a Storm controller, but chose Arduino because it allows for future upgrades. I may still change my mind though.

I program multiple types and brands of controllers at work. I had to teach myself to program each of them. I understand basic programming and should be able to pick up the Arduino code enough to run the LEDS. I've looked at several examples and didn't see anything too unfamiliar. Besides, it's kind of like a puzzle. The fun is in solving it.

I am much more concerned about the hardware for now That is my weak spot. I didn't have to buy pieces and wire up the controllers at work.
 
OK... I thought about it overnight. I've also been reminded by my better half that I have "other" things to do right now more pressing than learning Arduino code. I think "paint the house" was in the list she rattled off. I'm going to use the Storm Controller rather than the Arduino. Thanks for the advice.
 
OK... I thought about it overnight. I've also been reminded by my better half that I have "other" things to do right now more pressing than learning Arduino code. I think "paint the house" was in the list she rattled off. I'm going to use the Storm Controller rather than the Arduino. Thanks for the advice.

The storm controller is Adruno based and therefore "upgradeable" i.e recoded Same w/ the Typhon..

AFAICT..
 
OK, now that the control and power issues are mostly decided I am looking at updating the configuration and mix of the LEDs.

I'm going to change the configuration to create two of the tightest clusters the 22mm stars will allow. I also figured that since the Storm has 6 Channels, I'd divide the LEDs into 6 strings. So here's the initial plan for each Cluster...

Channel 1- 5 Royal Blue
Channel 2- 5 Royal Blue
Channel 3- 5 Cool White
Channel 4- 4 Blue & 2 Cyan
Channel 5- 2 400nm UV, 2 420nm UV, 1 Red Orange, & 1 Deep Red
Channel 6- 1 Green, 4 Lime, & 1 Warm White

I'm hoping to use Channel 6 to adjust CRI without affecting PUR too much.

Anybody care to poke holes in my plan or make suggestions?

Please and Thank You.
 
Check this one out

Check this one out

I already have the 3w Cree's, heat sinks, fans, pots, power supplies, and etc. from my original DIY. The fixture uses 4 dimmable Meanwell ELN-60-48D Drivers. The fixture has ran great ever since I built it. The LEDs aren't old enough to justify scrapping them so I'll use them for the upgrade. I do want to reorganize them as much as possible into "clusters" during the upgrade.

I have read some threads on RC and googled "Audrino", but I'm feeling pretty lost. I'm didn't think I was a complete dunce, until I started researching this project!

I need a boat load of help. I know this is a broad question, but I don't know enough yet to ask better ones... Can someone maybe provide a list of hardware needed to build a system to run somewhere between 48 to 60 3W LEDs that controls time on, ramp up, dwell, ramp down, & off on three or four channels. Even links to good threads would be helpful.

Thanks in advance for the help.
Reefgesser
Check out the Ferduino DIY controller. It uses a Arduino Mega 2560, code is already done and and is free to download. it just about does everything, LED control of 5 channels plus moonlight channel(controled by lunar phase cycle),Web interface(access your controller via internet any where in the world),Dosing, pH ,ORP,ATO, etc. etc.
it uses a 3.2" widescreen touch screen display
He even has a parts list and circuit diagrams
http://www.ferduino.com/forum/portal.php
also check out Redtops Ferduino Controller here on RC
same system but he changed code to enable the use of a 5"or 7" touch screen for control, again code is free to download.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2404035
I hope to have mine up and running soon but I think its pretty hard to beat all the features it has.
Hope this helps
 
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