Lesson learned...

hersheyb

Active member
I've been at this hobby for about 13 years on/off... and when ur in it for this long you figure you got everything down by now. NOPE! I been converting my tank to SPS dominant. Some are growing and thriving and there are a few that look like crap and showing signs of stn. I'm scratching my head trying to figure why some aren't doing well. All my parameters have been dead on 8 dkh 425 calc, .02 no3, .02 po4 with minimum fluctuation.

I went ahead and did a triton test.. (had a post last week) everything was pretty much green except for LI was off chart, Iodine was a bit low (which i took care of). Salinity was a little bit high but still within the yellow/greenish. The triton results weren't in gravity or ppt. I stopped calibrating my refractometer about a year ago since I lost my calibration solution, because you know when ur in the hobby for 13 years you don't think you'll make a rookie mistake of having the wrong salinity right? My calibration fluid came in today.. had to do a minor adjustment to my refractometer.. I went ahead an check my tank and it was at 40ppt!!! 40ppt!!! This whole time I thought i was mixing my water at 34-35 ppt....

So what did I learn today? Calibrate all [profanity]! I'm such a rookie.. =( Now I'm slowly bringing down my salinity as we speak...
 
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I have a dumb question regarding the Calibration Fluid....

Once you open it... Does it stay stable for a long time? What keeps some of the fluid from evaporating which would make your calibration fluid a higher PPT?

Just wondering if anyone knows if it evaporates over time...
 
I always have 2 refractometer just in case both doesn't match [emoji6]


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I have a dumb question regarding the Calibration Fluid....

Once you open it... Does it stay stable for a long time? What keeps some of the fluid from evaporating which would make your calibration fluid a higher PPT?

Just wondering if anyone knows if it evaporates over time...

It does, I believe there is a diy recipe for calibration fluid by weighting a particular amount of salt on a kitchen scale. If you get the recipe down you can always mix up a batch and be right in the game again.
 
I have a dumb question regarding the Calibration Fluid....

Once you open it... Does it stay stable for a long time? What keeps some of the fluid from evaporating which would make your calibration fluid a higher PPT?

Just wondering if anyone knows if it evaporates over time...

I get a new bottle every 6 months, when I compare the old to the new there is a usually a small shift inn the neighborhood of 0.001 to 0.002
 
It does, I believe there is a diy recipe for calibration fluid by weighting a particular amount of salt on a kitchen scale. If you get the recipe down you can always mix up a batch and be right in the game again.

Good info. Thanks....

I get a new bottle every 6 months, when I compare the old to the new there is a usually a small shift inn the neighborhood of 0.001 to 0.002

Mike, Your tank says that you are doing it 100% right!
 
ATC from marinedepot

Next time you calibrate, see if the screw is loose... I noticed with these el cheapo refractos, the screws either rust solid or are too loose to hold a calibration for more than a few times. I have two of these cheapos, one for myself and my wife has one too. So we check against our own cheap stuff.

I'm thinking of getting one that measures against conductivity to see if it can hold calibration longer. Will keep you posted if I do.
 
Next time you calibrate, see if the screw is loose... I noticed with these el cheapo refractos, the screws either rust solid or are too loose to hold a calibration for more than a few times. I have two of these cheapos, one for myself and my wife has one too. So we check against our own cheap stuff.

I'm thinking of getting one that measures against conductivity to see if it can hold calibration longer. Will keep you posted if I do.

ok after this incident I might consider one. I had to replace about 15 gals of saltwater with fw to correct the salinity =/ on roughly 80 gal system
 
Thats interesting. My refractometer always gives me a different result in different temperatures so I just recalibrate with RoDI

What throws me off is you said all your levels are in check but you have 40 PPT salt. My understanding is that as salt increases all your levels increase and as salt decreases all your levels decrease. What salt r u using?

For ex, if your salt is supposed to be 420 calcium at 35 PPT then that would make it for 480 calcium at 40ppt based off the ratio
 
Thats interesting. My refractometer always gives me a different result in different temperatures so I just recalibrate with RoDI

What throws me off is you said all your levels are in check but you have 40 PPT salt. My understanding is that as salt increases all your levels increase and as salt decreases all your levels decrease. What salt r u using?

For ex, if your salt is supposed to be 420 calcium at 35 PPT then that would make it for 480 calcium at 40ppt based off the ratio

The RODI calibration didn't work for me. I tried that and it always showed 0 that's why I never bought the calibration fluid. As far as Cal/Alk/Mg parameters I normally get them adjusted to my tank's parameters b4 water changes. I use IO, and I normally add some Calcium. Alk/Mg are always fine.
 
My io comes at roughly 410ppm at 35ppt
So if you had 40ppt, and if the batches of IO r consistent, that still should put you well above your 425 range

Were you noticing you still have to add calcium even at that high Ppt?
 
My io comes at roughly 410ppm at 35ppt
So if you had 40ppt, and if the batches of IO r consistent, that still should put you well above your 425 range

Were you noticing you still have to add calcium even at that high Ppt?

the last batch of salt that was at 40 ppt I had calcium at 395. From experience, calc/alk has minor variation from batch to batch.. it's always close.. I keep my tank alk at around 8, and IO is usally above that so i don't normally care about ALK.
 
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