Lets see those Closed Loop setups.

OkR33Fer

OkR33Fer

New member
I am going to go with a closed loop(or 2) this time around and Haven't got a clue on how to do it. I have a barracuda and a dart to use for the pumps and the glass is pretty much a blank 8ft x 30" slate. I have 2 3/4" bulkheads already in the bottom and plan to make a maniold (1.5" under the tank) that will feed a spraybar for behind the rockwork and 3 over the back or close to the top new holes, which will be powered by the dart. The barracuda will have a 2" feed and will feed another 1.5" manifold behind the tank that will feed 6 or 8 holes in the back of the tank.

I would love to see what you have and how you did it, My goal is to use no powerheads in the tank. My tank will be a mixed reef with 25~30% sps.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15260653#post15260653 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by leslie hempel
a picture is worth a thousand words :)
Click to expand...

You want to see a picture of the back of the tank?
I'm trying to plan mine out, I have no pictures of a closed loop to show yet.
 
manifold.jpg
 
I had a very similar size tank 8'L x 28"H and also wanted to go with a clean look inside the tank by avoiding powerheads ect. I originally thought by using Sea Swirls on the top and a closed loop towrds the bottom it would work well. Here's what I started with.

3 Gen X pumps for the CL and a Dolphin for a return through the Sea Swirls.

CIMG1156.jpg
[/IMG]

The three GenX pumps made too much noise for my liking and I went a different route.

Next I took the GenX pumps off and went with a second Dolphin pump through the exsisting CL holes

CIMG1329.jpg
[/IMG]

That didn't really work very well either. Too many issues with 90's ect to get good flow.

I then went to plan C. Remove the CL and keep the SS.

After all this work of replumbing numerous times I finally went with Tunze and Vortec pums on the back glass and corners. This seemed to give me the best flow of anything.

I think after my experience I would recommend PH over CL even though I personally hate the look of PH in the tank just like you.

You might want to take a look at Jarheads (I think) thread. He hides the Tunzes behind some acyrlic and apparently it works great.

I have since tanken the system down but thought I would help you if I could.
 
Yea, wasn't cheap. Top row is all 1.5" and bottom 3 are 2". Returns are 1.5". Thats only half of them. :p
 
I built my 400 specifically to avoid powerheads. I used two CLs...each a Dart with an OM4way.

So that is a total of 8 inputs to the tank. 4 are on the back wall and 4 are in the tank bottom.

The OM4ways are timed such that the back wall outlets all fire, then the bottom outlets all fire. This creates a "rolling water" effect that pushes water from back to front, then bottom to top to back. I like the OM4ways and would recommend them to anyone.

100_0449.jpg


In this shot, you can see all the bulkheads. I've since moved to larger area input strainers. If you see the tank now, you can't see any of these bulkheads because they are all hidden by rockwork.

100_0508.jpg
 
new669.jpg


My goal for this setup was like most people. I wanted to have a clean look. The returns are the only thing you can see now. And I'm going to fix one of them. The return coming out of the overflow will be removed. I'm going to do a spray bar running the length of the tank. IT will lay at the bottom and have numerous holes drill into it at various points. The idea is to create more flow on the sand bed and behind the rock work.

I think my layout of teh CL is simple and clean.
 
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