Lets talk ATO systems...

[Mike31154]

If I had the room for an elevated container above a sump, I'd use gravity fed ATO through a mechanical float valve. No electrics near or in the water to fail or get disabled by a power outage. Since I have neither the room nor a sump, I use a 7 gal glass wine car boy next to my display. It is pressurized by a small air pump on a timer and this pushes water to the mechanical float valve attached to the rim of my display. Working great for years, just need to get the timer dialed in to keep the container under consistent pressure. Not an issue if the timer runs longer than necessary since the float valve can easily handle the few psi the pump is capable of delivering. Nice slow trickle through the mechanical float valve, still no electrics physically in the tank. Power outage can still disable, but with residual pressure in the carboy, it will continue topping off for a few hours without power. Tank evaporates about 1 gal per day, so this set up keeps things going for close to a week.

 

[Deaner]

Diy , ato

Diy , ato

I just made mine DIY. 24vdc solenoid controlled by a float switch. Hooked into my RO line. its worked flawlessly, so nice to never worry about topping off.

 

[bamf25]

I run floats off of my Apex. My ATO tank last about 2 weeks, really makes the tank very low hassel.

 

[tozzi]

Tunze hands down

 

[firebirdude]

I have the Elos ATO unit and have used it for a year and it is amazing.

Better be for over $200!

Like half the people on this forum, I'm using the Aquahub kit. Works great. I'm going to "upgrade" it using the ReefKeeper Lite and sealed float switches from Digital Aquatics.

 

[DDRR]

Tunze Osmolator running strong for 2 years plus, never had an issue with it. Would go with the Tunze or Elos.

 

[reeferlover]

If money is not a problem then go with a Liter meter III with a trash can for resivoir pump through a kalk reactor and use a JBJ auto top off for back just incase it has a little more evaporation one day awesome top off.

 

[tozzi]

Or get the tunze, and another tunze for backup:lol2:

 

[EllisJuan]

Just because you have the money doesn't mean it is not better spent elsewhere. I think the tsunami or jbj will accomplish what I need. Have people had problems with ether failing?

 

[preef]

I have a gravity fed system. Simple float valve in the sump regulates water from a 3 gallon reservoir sitting on the sump. I use autotopoff.com float switches and my Apex to fill the reservoir when it gets empty.

I fill a reservoir to minimize TDS creep. In theory it should make my DI resin last longer than putting the float switches in the sump and filling directly from the solenoid.

 

[dustinc]

Just because you have the money doesn't mean it is not better spent elsewhere. I think the tsunami or jbj will accomplish what I need. Have people had problems with ether failing?

My old JBJ unit failed on me several times. That's why I like the piece of mind of the Elos unit.

 

[dagon138]

Co-worker has a 20g, and JBJ ATO system.

I saved his butt about a month ago, as a turbo was hanging off the float switch.
It had some sort of lame snail guard on it..only about a gallon went on the floor!

 

[EllisJuan]

My old JBJ unit failed on me several times. That's why I like the piece of mind of the Elos unit.

Co-worker has a 20g, and JBJ ATO system.

I saved his butt about a month ago, as a turbo was hanging off the float switch.
It had some sort of lame snail guard on it..only about a gallon went on the floor!

Well, that is not very comforting...haha

Would the pressure sensor setup of the Tsunami AT-1 prevent that issue?

 

[dustinc]

Just because you have the money doesn't mean it is not better spent elsewhere. I think the tsunami or jbj will accomplish what I need. Have people had problems with ether failing?

I think the most important thing to think about in this, is it worth saving $100 to take that kind of chance with several gallons of RO dumping into your system and possibly causing more damage. I'm a big fan of not having to worry about that kind of thing.

 

[Mike31154]

I dunno, my cheapo air pressurized system through mechanical float valve probably cost less than $50 and hasn't caused an issue yet. More complex & sophisticated does not always mean better. For something like water top off, the simpler the better. Fewer points of failure. I haven't seen too many horror story threads about failed components & floods with the simpler gravity fed set ups than those with all the electrical/optical sensors, switches etc. This thread itself is proof of that, both Tunze & others have had various issues. If you have the real estate or are able to cleverly camouflage a gravity fed ATO, why spend a pile of dough on extra electricals. Granted, my current set up is unsightly beside the display, a simple cabinet could hide the whole works I guess. I simply haven't bothered trying to disguise it since I'm planning a basement sump build where I will use gravity fed since plenty of space will be available.

 

[Mike31154]

I fill a reservoir to minimize TDS creep. In theory it should make my DI resin last longer than putting the float switches in the sump and filling directly from the solenoid.

This is great info/advice for those with fairly high tap water TDS with their RODI plumbed directly through an ATO. My tap TDS is in the neighborhood of 210 and monitoring the TDS meter at every start up, it takes several minutes for the TDS through the membrane to get down to 1 or 0. I divert the first gallon or so of product water on every start up before the DI stage to a waste container. If you're RODI is directly plumbed & cuts in for only a minute or two for continuous short cycles dictated by your ATO, you're not doing your membrane, DI or system any favors. My DI cartridge is still going strong after more than two years with close to 2,000 gallons of water produced.

 

[forddna]

I've heard of a few JBJ failures. I don't think I've ever heard of an autotopoff.com failure. I would go with the double float one for extra safety and peace of mind.