Lev's 65 Gallon Softie and Gorg DIY NO Flour. Tank Diary *Pic Intense*

Lev F.

New member
People might have mixed feelings about this, so please no flaming.
I wanted SPS only to find out that they need a large amount of light. being 13, I could neither afford or support thse huge Metal Halides. I wanted to try LPS, but they also needed a large amount of light. Plus, everyone has SPS or LPS. I wanted something different. Something interesting to look at, but not needing a huge amount of light. Then, i found my answer. Something inexpensive, fun to watch, not needing a huge amount of light, and providing some degree of challenge: Soft corals, Gorgonians and other Nonzooxanthellate invertebrates. A couple of months ago, i started my project. I had asked my father to build me a custom NO flourescent fixture. It had been spanning for several weeks, but as of this evening, It is complete! It has four bulbs; 2 Marine-Glo Actinics, and 2 10'000K Power Glo lights. Ballasts were store bought, wire were store bought, and so was everything else, except the Canopy itself, which was actually a used metal halide canopy at one point. It was a great canopy, aluminum, stain proof, and with an acrylic shield. Then, the construction began. I have watched my father working several times and helped him out when he needed it. I do not know how to explain all the "technical stuff", but here are some pics.

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The light has a reflector, so you cannot see the wires, those pics are without the reflector one. I will post more pics tommorow, because it is now the evening and the tank is on it's night cycle. somewhere in the future, moonlights will be added. I really thank my dad for making this project possible. I some of my invertebrates would be in need of live foods. Already in the making is a little thing called a BBU. a BBU is short for Brine Shrimp Breeding Unit.

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It has a clever design that I had taken a couple of weeks to perfect. When fully stocked, the BBu will hold 30-50 Pairs of adult Artemia. Once the artemia start breeding, the nauplii will slide down the tiny gap and into the main tank, where they will be gorged apon my corals, fish, and gorgonians. An automatic feeder will be suspended above the BBU, feeding the artemia when needed. The BBu will be placed cleverly as so when the nauplii get out, they are swept towards the large gorgonian, which can eat at it's leisure. Of course, the Gorg's feeding will also be supplemented with spot feedings every 4-5 days. Another future project is the Rotifer-Phytoplankton dripper. It is a Kent dripper equipped for breeding rotifers and phytoplankton. When a good culture of phytoplankton starts within the container, I will add rotifers. Then, I will activate the drip cycle, and food will be available for plankton feeders.

The current occupants of this system are as follows:

1 Orange Gorgonian (Feeding heavily every 2nd day until the BBU becomes Active.
2 Colonies of Tubastrea Sun Polyps.
1 Hawaiian Feather Duster Worm

In the future, occupants would include:

Many species of Mushroom corals.
Species of Leather Corals.
Green Star Polyps
Gorgonians
Tube Anemone
Christmas Tree Worms
Coco Worm
Black Tubastrea
and possibly some more. (any suggestions?) :)

I will try to get more pics up tommorow, if you guys are still interested. I hope some of you might find this thread interesting, if not long. Feel free to post comments, questions, or concerns. :D
 
Cool idea! The lighting should be fine for the corals you plan to keep. You may want to keep some zoo's (polyps) that are available in a variety of colors. Some tips on the sun polyps. Feed them directly with meaty foods (mysis, brine, etc.) when the polyps are fully open (usually at night).
 
Zoanthids I have been thinking about. I think they would want a larger amount of light. I will try some and see how they do. Maybe clauvaria as well. I haven't tried feeding the Tubastrea yet, because today is their first night. I got them at my LFS for 9.99 because they thought they were dying when they were actually withdrawn. The gorgonian i have feeds, and it also has a basket star on it that I also target feed.
 
I like the fixture. I started out with a homebrew canopy that had 4- 32 watt 10,000k t-8's and an actinic. It suprisingly worked very well!!, then I got a pc fixture for christmas (thanks santa)
 
Actually, all my lighting fixtures are made by myself. I have a 20 long that has 4- 36 watt PC's and my 120 has an aluminum rack that currently has 2- 110 watt VHO's and two 250 watt SE pendants (made the pendants too) in it. When finished will have another 2- 110 watt VHO's and moonlights. I also have to cover the rack itself yet. Can take pics if anyone is interested in seeing it. I was alos thinking of building them for other people if anyone is interested in that. But great job on your lights, they look great!
Tom
 
I had zoas under NO single strip 50/50, do dramatic growth (maybe 1 new polyp every week or every other week) but the colors were pretty good and they all looked healthy. Fully open and beautiful. You might try a frag of zoas and see what you think. JMO FWIW

I also got new PCs for christmas and the growth is the only difference I have noticed. The colors are pretty much the same (maybe a little brighter). I now run the PCs and the NO strip. I just decided to add the NO back to the tank just because I like the color it adds.


I wish you the best of luck in your project! I think it is great you are into the hobby at your age, my 11 year old thinks he is ready for a SW tank after watching me build my tank.

Can't wait for more pics!!!
 
Lev,

First of all I would like you to thank your Dad for me as well, for being such an understanding father, helping you in your endeavors! :D

Second of all, I think your idea and setup is GREAT. You obviously put forth great effort and thought into this design. I will be following this thread, and hope that this works for you! :D
I would most definitely love to see more pics!

One concern, although I don't know much about anemones, I worry you won't have enough light for the Tube Anemone.

Tip on the Tubastrea's, they go WILD for cyclop-eeze, at least mine do. Get some fresh raw shrimp, scallops, and some silversides and cyclop-eeze. Freeze the shrimp and scallops, then grate them (while frozen of coarse), then chop the silversides and mix EVERYTHING together, drain as much of the juices as possible, then put in a ziploc bag, inside another ziploc bag(for added security, CLEARLY marked "FISH TANK FOOD" and refreeze. Then just scrape off what you need when you need it and feed to corals, the fish will love it too. I would use a ratio of equal parts of everything except the cyclop-eeze, I'd use 1/2. Just a suggestion though.

Keep us posted, but above all, have fun!;)

Brianna:rollface:
 
Thank you everyone for your comments! Tube Anemones, Stichodactyla or Cryptodendrum are not photosynthetic. They are nocturnal, and also need to be fed silversides and cyclop-eeze, just like the Tubastrea. :D

More info could be found here: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/june2004/invert.htm
(not my site)

I will be putting up pics later today, because I have to go to school first. :rolleyes:
 
Great Idea!! I did something very similar when I was in college. I couldn't afford the big money lights, but wanted a reef tank, so I went with 4 plain old flour. My tank is actually cheaper than yours, with 2 home depot fixtures, which is 4 4 foot bulbs, 3 homedepot 6500k bulbs and 1 actinic. The lights have been replaced about once every 8 months to year, and the tank is now over 3 years old. I currently have tons of purple, red, and green stripe mushrooms. I also have had great success with Frogspawn and my Torch. Lastly, my RBTA anemone has over doubled in size over 6 months to be an amazing 8-10 inches when fully expanded. The only thing I have had trouble keeping were green star polyps. I'm not sure if this is light or nitrate related. The tank has a 2-3" Yellow tang, and a Koran who is now over 4", so I think they are a lil big of a bioload, even though all the other corals are doing great. I guess what I am saying it, good luck, I know it will work, just start out with some small frags of everything to see if they like the light in your tank.

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Wow, that's a nice tank. Thanks for the advice, I will try frags of different kinds to see if they will adapt to the lighting.
 
You can order a workhorse 7 ballast on-line for around 30 bucks, then overdrive you NO bulbs and effectively have almost VHO lights. PM a speakeraddict, he has done that many times and was able to keep alot more corals that way. The corals all looked great.
 
i can't imagine why anyone would flame you- i think your feeding method for those guys is awesome.

best of luck and keep us updated. i'm sure plenty of folks (like me) would love to hear a success story of how to keep a non-photosynthetic reef fed, without killing everything with nutrients.
 
Finally! Here are the Pics! Enjoy. At the time of taking these pics, the water was silty because the Eel Gobies were digging, hope you guys don't mind. Some pics are blurry, and i still am getting the hang of using my camera, so sorry about that.

Here is a pic of my Hawaiian Feather Duster:

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This guy has been a good citizen, and I've kept him for a while. Hopefully he has been accepting my food.

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Here are some pics of my Tubastrea. I don't know if they are doing too good, because I got them for 9.99 at the LFS, they may be dieing.

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This is a picture of my Red Gorgonian polyps. He was once very large but most of him died off at the LFS. I felt pitiful, and bought him anyway. he seems to be doing well.

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Just a point, I had rescued the Kole Tang from about 50 Damsels and 4 other tangs in a 30 gallon tank. His fins were basically torn right off and he had HLLE. After 2 weeks in my tank and feeding of garlic, he cleared up.
 
Yep I wanted to see it. Excellent work man! I really like it. It looks great. The feather duster looks fine. Nice work with the Kole. Congrats!
 
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