LFP's Xenon Projection and Cree LED DIY lighting system.

Some dealers want prices in the thousand dollar range for the projectors. I would definitely stick with a place that dismantles used OEM headlights for the purpose of extracting the projectors.

I used these guys for the projectors, and service was good. I used OEM projectors made by valeo. I did have to modify each projector though to make it better suited towards my needs. Your needs may be different. They don't sell any bulbs that would work for coral.

http://store.theretrofitsource.com/index.php

The bulbs have a claimed life of 3,000-5,000 hours. I never trust these things at all, and I'm kinda thinking that only time will tell.

As far as getting bulbs and bulb/ballast kits, I have a wholesaler who is working with me. We tried out some kits ranging between the $40 area up to the $220 area. The $40 kits had less than 50% ballast efficiency, buzzed softly, occasionally lost the arc, and felt like they were going to melt down after a few minutes. The $220 kit did absolutely nothing better than one of the kits that cost $105/kit, and efficiency was very high and it passed all the thermal and over voltage and shorting protection tests I tried. I was pretty impressed. The 3 models of bulb I found best suited to coral come from two different manufactures, neither of which I know the names of. The ballasts I like also list no manufacture info, but leave an area for some companies sticker to go. I'm thinking they are likely resold by multiple companies who re-label the ballast, bump the price, and sell it as there own product. My contact is able to source the ballasts and bulbs direct from the manufacture.

I talked to him about expanding his market from just cars to including reef keepers. He seems to think I'm the only person in the world who would ever spend the time to try to keep a reef though... lol I'm trying to convince him that there could be some demand, but it's tough to know. I ended up buying 10 more ballasts with 10 more of the special 25k blue bulbs from him though, so I could have some items available to help someone else who is interested in trying it out. If there is enough interest, I might buy a pallet of bulbs and kits at very low prices, and get them out to interested folks at roughly my cost. I REALLY don't want to get caught up in hassles of dealing with customers and things, but I wouldn't mind mailing out a package once in a while. I'm not trying to make profits (I have a job for that), it would just be a way to help get parts to people who want to try it out. I would actually be down for trading unique SPS frags for XGD parts/equipment :)

I think I should get more hours on my setup before I supply any parts though. So far the bulb lifespan is unknown, and the technology is largely unproven for this application. My setup is basically just a prototype, and anyone who wants to try it this soon would be like a product "beta tester".

Anyways... I'm tired. I'm rambling. I'm going to go take a nap before getting back to work on some new projects.

Best Wishes,
-Luke
 
I had a thought, and I'm curious if it would work... I'm sure that car parts wouldn't work, but if we could source a suitable lens and design a proper reflector, this could probably be done with standard MH lighting, could it not?

That would probably help get the "unlit glass" effect while enabling you to raise the MH fixtures up and out of the way. Think it's possible Luke?
 
why not?

why not?

Why not use the same headlights reflector and take out rest of the unwanted bulbs from the housing and see how it looks. The only problem is that you may end up with very ugly lighting unit lol.
 
Just finished this thread. I highly applaud you for attempting a new and creative means of lighting. I'd love to be involved in a project like this. Some people on this thread simply don't understand that it doesn't have to be "better" or "as good" as other commercially available systems to be a success. Technology is an evolution. Think of all the things this guy learned on the way to building this one, which hopefully will be applied to later attempts. This guy isn't stealing technology, he's truly incorporating it into his own idea. VERY few of us have the skills and determination to do stuff like this. I applaud you. A+.
 
hi

hi

LFP, your work is excellent and most importantly it meets your needs. If we didn't try new things then we never know. Necessity is the mother of invention and your lighting meet your needs and that is what we are trying to achieve here.
I have shown your work on the UK's reef forums and they all loved it. I, myself looking to do something similar and looking to purchase BMW xenon lights in very near future.

Question LFP, can I use Mercedes xenon lights as we have Mercedes reclamation yard not too far from us?

Once again great work.
 
lfp - having the ability to light corals to their needs and having the ability of having extremely high light corals along side a low to no light coral has more than caught my attention. My condolences go out to you and your family. Hope to hear / see more in the future. your work is top notch.. i was esp fond of your F20c powered project car! that was pretty cool.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14073608#post14073608 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by liveforphysics
Seawandrr-

Thank you.

In a sea of closed minds, its great to have someone with their head above water.

Luke,

Just logging on to this thread from a DIY hiatus.... One engineer to another applauds your efforts.

Let those that can't think out of the box drowned.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14190489#post14190489 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jasonh
I had a thought, and I'm curious if it would work... I'm sure that car parts wouldn't work, but if we could source a suitable lens and design a proper reflector, this could probably be done with standard MH lighting, could it not?

That would probably help get the "unlit glass" effect while enabling you to raise the MH fixtures up and out of the way. Think it's possible Luke?

To make the ability to project light through a lens, it comes down to a ratio of the lens entrance surface to the light emission surface. In these bulbs, the light emission surface could be modeled as a sphere roughly 2-3mm across. The lens is 75mm across. Area is what matters here, so we are looking the squares of these values. If you were to keep the same surface ratios, you could project just as well from a normal sized aquarium metal halide bulb, but I would imagine the 3ft aspherical lens could cost in the 10s of thousands, but it should perform fine if you can duplicate the ratios.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14674271#post14674271 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by truebeliever71
Luke,

Any updates on your project? How are the corals doing? Good growth? I'm considering going this route on my tank.


It's been 3 months now, and I did have two coral frags die. They both died soon after the lighting change. One was a blue/pink milipora frag, and one was a red montipora digi frag. Maybe I hit them with too much light, maybe not enough, maybe they just had algae monocultures, maybe my Asfur angel ate them. Who knows, but I did loose 2 frags. All the other corals are showing rapid growth, and looking great. I'm pleased with the coral health and growth, and I'm ecstatic about being able to go at least a month between cleaning the glass. My power bill also dropped :), and I never have to mess with moving my lights or burning my arm on them while I harass/frag/mount corals in the tank.
 
chibilis, Lucky Strike, Deathwish, and all the others who shared their support and respect- Thank you all for your kind words! Good luck and best wishes to you. -Luke

For folks who enjoy DIY projects that aren't reef related, you may enjoy seeing something I threw together a month ago:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1613331

Nothing fancy or sciencey, and quite simple to build, but it serves its function and delivers me some needed smiles in the process.
 
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If your frags turned white w/in a day or two after the light change, then I would say light shock. I experienced that when I put my LEDs too close to my frags in the frag tank. It's so directional!

It's tough doing these lighting projects too, we have so many variables. Your flow is great, so I could question your water chemistry/stability in affecting any deaths or color loss. SPS are so picky that these projects are hard to do.

I forget if you ever meaured the outputs of these lights in the tank w/a PAR meter? I bought mine from apogee, best toy ever.

Did a guy from china PM you asking for advice on LED design today?
 
It took about 2-3 weeks for the 2 frags that died to die. Definitely a STN event, and I'm just assuming it was the light change that triggered it. Since then, all the other corals have been great, and healthy. Go figure I guess.

Yes, I got PAR readings about 3 months ago. Peaks in the 600s where multiple spots overlap, and holding 150-200 through the areas that don't overlap. With LED's alone, it's a sad 20-30PAR. :( This is from not using projection optics on the LEDs, but running them at projection optic distances. I also chose some non-optimized budget reflectors for the LEDs. I'm confident with proper optic selection I could at least double the intensity delivered by LEDs alone, but for now, I'm very happy, the corals are happy, and I need to focus efforts in other places.

Best Wishes,
-Luke

PS: No PMs from anyone in China asking about LED design.
 
wow, peaks in the 600 PAR zone is great. I get 500-300 in my SPS keeping zones (6"-18" depth) w/ my icecap driven T5's. I was very dissapointed in my Luxeon array (200-300 PAR). I used the old luxeon 3's w/ 45 degree tri - optics I think. The new rebels w/ tri stars and optics would be crazy strong, but super expensive. I've seen the PAR readings in person on the rebel driven PFO solaris 2 and they are the same as MH/T5, but they would be better w/ high binned LED's. The China guy is fishing us LED experts out for free design info I think.

I am happy w/ my lighting, and now my flow thanks to you... If only I could find some new water quality improvement projects (aside from my sulfur reactor, ozone reactor, remote sand bed, refugium, skimmer, phosphate / carbon reactor and soon to be algae turf scrubber)... Make a new water quality improvement project for us, yes.
 
I did just get a PM from him. He asked for my sources for the parts, and I gave them the info, which is all listed in this thread.

For water quality, I just use refugiums. I have a 90gal and a 45gal fuge that I use with HPS lamps to grow Chaeto. Nothing more. I built my DIY cone skimmer with carbon fiber and titanium and ceramic ball bearings and a brushless 3-phase variable speed pump etc etc, but I only used it long enough to prove to myself it works, then put it away. 1-2 water changes a year, macro algae growth, very strong water flow, and 2-part solution by the bucket is all my tank seems to need keep the corals happy and growing.
 
Maybe I should try lighting my 75G refugium and 50G refugium w/ more then 100 PAR? Or maybe I just have a very high fish load for 500G of water.
 
I tried a variety of bulbs for growing algae, and found the 70w HPS lamp enclosures are fantastic. Bulb cost is around $8, and the fixture with reflector and ballast in a weather proof housing is around $40-60. HPS (high pressure sodium) can do 130lumens/watt, and is a very high intensity source that reflects with higher efficiency than florescent. The downside is the lack of blue spectrum, yet at least chaetomorpha macro algae grows fantastic under HPS.
 
I had great results a while back when I grew macro algae under only Blue and Red LED's (my avatar). The light is kinda pink, and the macro looks brown under that odd color. I got the idea from NASA when I saw them growing tomato plants in space using red/blue LEDs. It is more energy efficient for plants, as they reflect the green light off (white wastes that portion on plants). It's a fun project if you're interested. I hear inventive college kids do that in their dorm closets now for other plants. =)
 
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