light height off my tank?

wnutz

New member
i have a 90 gallon tank with a aqualight pro with 2 150w 10k halides and 2 96 w actnic how high should my light be off the surface of the water?
 
has the world lost all common sence and the ability to think/work things out for themselfs? I am sure you can figure it out, if everyone who set up a tank asked basic questions like this forums would be so garbaged up they would be worthless. Sorry just had to vent nothing against you
 
This isn't a stupid question.
I mean, you could get pretty technical about this. I think there is something about this in TRA vol. 3. I don't have the book handy so I don't know.

You probably want it adjustable, so you can move it up and out of the way for working inside the tank.

Personally, I would try and keep it a few inches away no matter what so splashing and spray don't damage it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6531079#post6531079 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by physicslord
This isn't a stupid question.
I mean, you could get pretty technical about this. I think there is something about this in TRA vol. 3. I don't have the book handy so I don't know.

You probably want it adjustable, so you can move it up and out of the way for working inside the tank.

Personally, I would try and keep it a few inches away no matter what so splashing and spray don't damage it.

I would love to hear what complexity exist in this question. You want the light close to the water so it is more intense and thus works better....but because of heat/water splash reasons it must be raised. What else is there to this (i don't mean to sound annoyed I just do not know what other dimensions there are).
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6531125#post6531125 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jent46bow
I would love to hear what complexity exist in this question. You want the light close to the water so it is more intense and thus works better....but because of heat/water splash reasons it must be raised. What else is there to this (i don't mean to sound annoyed I just do not know what other dimensions there are).

Man, bad day at the office huh? Me too - I'm really bored.

In answer to the question I was just thinking about the way the reflectors are angled and such. I mean, you probably want to get a good even coverage of the light with no shadowy spots. Just thinking.
 
Questions like; depth of tank, is a chiller used, are there cooling fans in system, what corals desired to be kept, what required space for comfortable glass cleaning and maintenance in tank, could all impact the choice of height from the tank water.

So not quite as simple as some might think. ;)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6531167#post6531167 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by physicslord
Man, bad day at the office huh? Me too - I'm really bored.

In answer to the question I was just thinking about the way the reflectors are angled and such. I mean, you probably want to get a good even coverage of the light with no shadowy spots. Just thinking.
Yea, I am accually having lunch. I guess reflector angles do matter. And coverage around a center brace may also be a factor. But these are things that are trial and error/you work out on your own. Plus I imagine that with his coralife aqualight he wont be able to angle any reflectors.
 
My Aqualight Pro is mounted on legs that came with it so there is no adjusting without rigging it. If you are not using the legs I would suggest approximately 6 inches from the water. 150's are no that bright for that size tank so I would hesitate to put them much higher. Now if you are not keeping any light demanding creatures then put it higher if you would like.
 
if you want, you could have a moving track lighting system to simulate the sun's motion and more evenly cover the coral's tissue with light. Then we can talk about photoperiod and the role of polyp extension in respiration....
:D
 
Definately not strong enough light for anything that requires much. I'm upgrading to dual 400watts on my 90 gallon. Am making a new wood canopy to allow me 18" high and am going to mount them in the top on either side of the crossbar.
 
well jent last time i checked this is exactly what reefcentral is for information i am terribly sorry that the question didnt stimulate you not all of us have been in this hobby as long as u so dont be an assss if u didnt like it move on if your such a pro why are u even on this site. thank u to everyone else
 
I can only speculate what wnuts must stand for but will leave that one go. No, not a pro, just giving maybe some helpful advice as you said this forum was for, and apparently you don't care for it. Please don't respond to my question then as I am a pro and don't need your assistance. Otherwise to the dude who started this post, ignore wnuts and good luck on your lighting dilema. As for you normal people out there, feel free to give me some advise on true perc's and anemone compatibility...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6532246#post6532246 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gene Ritter Jr
Definately not strong enough light for anything that requires much. I'm upgrading to dual 400watts on my 90 gallon. Am making a new wood canopy to allow me 18" high and am going to mount them in the top on either side of the crossbar.

:lol:

Hold on just a second...

:lol: :lol:

Just one more second...

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Dude, you are a marketing guy's wet dream. 2 150's are plenty for any system of that size that isn't deeper than 18". 2 400's for a 90g is MAJOR overkill. You're going to seriously limit the number of corals you can raise without bleaching. NOBODY (and I know I'm going to offend some people who've blown their money on the biggest lights they could get) with a tank shallower than 36" needs 400W MHs. That's like putting a HEMI on a moped:D Have you asked yourself why you need to raise them 18" above the surface??? Because they're too freaking strong for your tank, yo!
 
Only one way to settle this one...



Where's my PAR meter....



IMO 250's would suffice, but if you're going for the midday-sun-on-Fiji look, then the 400s are about right
 
Jeesh...some of you guys need to lay off. If a question is "too elementary" for you, then just pass it over...it takes a real ***** to take the time to write up a nasty response. I've had the same question myself regarding 175 watt MH over my 55. I am thinking about 8" off of the water should be okay.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6540452#post6540452 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tankslave
Only one way to settle this one...



Where's my PAR meter....



IMO 250's would suffice, but if you're going for the midday-sun-on-Fiji look, then the 400s are about right

Ok, where is everyone getting the idea that he'd even need a 250? From the people who sell the lights? Anthony Calfo, who recommends that everyone have a PAR meter, says a 250 is only necessary if the tank is around 36" deep, and that a 400 is rarely necessary and should only be used after checking the PAR levels in advance. Maybe a 175 would be necessary for a 90, but even 250 is overkill. I've got a 150W 10k on my 50g, and I've got seriously light-demanding corals that keep their color very well, IMO much better color than from the place where I've purchased some of them that uses 3 400W 20k on a 180g--his colors aren't bad, but they aren't as deep as they could be (a little pale) if he lowered the light levels a bit. Am I the only person on this board that understands photo-inhibition?
 
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