Wiskey
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6545166#post6545166 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by finneganswake
Ok, where is everyone getting the idea that he'd even need a 250? From the people who sell the lights? Anthony Calfo, who recommends that everyone have a PAR meter, says a 250 is only necessary if the tank is around 36" deep, and that a 400 is rarely necessary and should only be used after checking the PAR levels in advance. Maybe a 175 would be necessary for a 90, but even 250 is overkill. I've got a 150W 10k on my 50g, and I've got seriously light-demanding corals that keep their color very well, IMO much better color than from the place where I've purchased some of them that uses 3 400W 20k on a 180g--his colors aren't bad, but they aren't as deep as they could be (a little pale) if he lowered the light levels a bit. Am I the only person on this board that understands photo-inhibition?
Photo inabition is not all we are talking about here. 400W means NOTHING, :lol: that is like compairing W/G. The 250W XM 10K bulb has more par than some of the 400W bulbs out there. To compar lights we need par readings from diffrent levels in the tank, then we can start talking about photo inabition.
Whiskey