Light too strong for Fuge?

xpcgamer

Member
Well I FINALLY found a replacement tank for the cracked Nano. Its a 24 Nano not the 28 but the LED hood fits. I have ordered a LED Fuge light kit and have wire it together with 60 degree optics. This thing is BRIGHT as :furious:! It has 4 6500k less and I was wondering if this will be too bright. I have to peel some of the black covering off the back and will only really have space for a small handful. Too much light? Will I be fighting an Algae war in the back?
 
Why run the fuge at all? I don't think those optics are necessary. Have you considered a pc bulb in a project box? Very popular with the nano crowd.
 
Actually I haven't! I figured the main tank is being run by LED's I figured I would do the Fuge light also. I think your right thou. These LED's are OVERKILL! Maybe I will set up a small Giant Betta tank in my office and put the LED's on them. Is there a DIY for the small PC light?
 
Search around, but I've seen people Velcro a project box to the back glass, and just fit it with a regular socket for a pc bulb. Minimizes light spill, and has a reasonable temp and cheap! I'll see if I can find it.
 
Thanks! Just book marked! I have another question and figured I wont start another thread to ask. The cube has a small bit of rocking back and fourth on the stand. Looks like the base where the tank sits on is warped a bit. Do I lay another piece of pressurize Plywood on top of it the place the tank or do the old layer of styro foam trick under the tank? Its a small space but now I know how my last 28g cracked in the corner on the curve. Same stand.
 
More PAR= more growth. More growth= more assimilation of nutrients by the algea.
If youre trying to reduce nutrients, the brighter, the better.
If youre just using it to supply pods, then all you need is enough light for moderate growth, ie like from a 13w PC bulb. Having said that, a clip on LED light from the auction place would be cheaper, easier, and more clean looking.
 
Thanks! Just book marked! I have another question and figured I wont start another thread to ask. The cube has a small bit of rocking back and fourth on the stand. Looks like the base where the tank sits on is warped a bit. Do I lay another piece of pressurize Plywood on top of it the place the tank or do the old layer of styro foam trick under the tank? Its a small space but now I know how my last 28g cracked in the corner on the curve. Same stand.



If you mean there is a gap between the tank and the stand, then that is a dangerous situation. All the pressure is being concentrated on the points that touch the stand. Whereas the points that do not touch the stand have pressure downward and outward. Your tank could start leaking. Styrofoam does very little to correct this situation. It will compress but not support.

Best is to level the stand first, then level the tank on the stand and don't allow any "suspended" areas between tank bottom and stand. Use synthetic (wont rot) shims every 18-24" to support the tank underneath that have a gap.
 
Should I replace the base with a piece of pressurized plywood?

I don't recommend pressure treated ply because many have been processed with very, very toxic chemicals to our critters t make them rot resistant outdoors.

If your tank has a bottom perimeter rim, where the rest of the bottom glass suspends off the bottom of the stand, then all you need is a rectangular frame to support your tank's bottom frame along the whole perimeter.
Shim underneath the added new ply to bring it against the bottom plastic rim of the aquarium.

If your tank has no bottom rim then use a piece of wood that would encompass the whole area of the bottom of the tank. And shim underneath this piece of wood, after the stand has been leveled.
 
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