Live Rock Cycle Help

downhillbiker

New member
So I posted earlier about the rock, and now i have been curing the rock, and I just don't know how to do this. I have read several articles, but want your trusted input.

The rock is 40lbs (dead) live rock, and 10lbs live rock, in a garbage can with protein skimmer and light on it.

Ammonia-1ppm
Nitrates-20ppm
Phosphates-1ppm

I was just wondering if I need to be doing lots of water changes to get the levels where they should be (as in a tank), or if I am supposed to truly "let it cycle".

I have been doing 25% changes every 2-3 days, no bad smell, just high levels, at least I think they are high.
 
What is your goal here? Curing the 10lbs LR? Seeding the 40 lbs base rock? Cooking out the phosphates in both?

If you are using RO water and reading 1 ppm phosphates from 50 lbs of rock, then I suggest the cooking procedure. No lights, heavy skimming, frequent water changes, and 4 months of cooking minimum.

Sorry, there is just no quicker way to rid the rock of phosphate.
 
I am trying to cure the dead rock, and seed it with coralline from the live rock. i am not using ro/di water. i dont have a unit and get ro/di water from a friend, but save that for the main tank. i know the phosphates will be a little high. I am mostly trying to cycle, and therefor am more concerned about the ammonia.

The phosphates will go down on their own over time too right? I was planning on adding the rock to my tank after it had cycled in a few weeks or so.
 
BUMP^^^

I think that when I get done cycling the rock, i should be able to add it to the display tank and then the phosphates will gradually come out with water changes and GFO.

Will this cause any major problems?
 
I wouldn't do water changes during cycling- you want the bacteria to have enough "food" to eat and multiply. Also, always cycle rock with the lights off and in total darkness to reduce unwanted algae growth and worry about coralline growth once rock is fully cycled and placed in your tank. Using purple up will help coralline growth in your display tank.
 
I second turning the lights off and no water changes. Also add a powerhead to keep water circulating. And Wait! Patience is the key. If it gets stinky, good! It gives the bacteria something to grow on. My experience is the first stages seem to take forever, then bang, it's done.
 
ok. i will turn the lights off.
there is already a powerhead and a sump pump. so should i keep the coralline covered rock in there, or should i just put it in the display now. i dont want to lose all of the coralline, i paid a lot for the rock, because it was covered in coralline.
 
The reason some people prefer to do water changes while curing rock is to keep the death rate because of ammonia as low as possible.

You have a choice;

a) water changes mean a longer cure length (maybe), but lower ammonia and possibly a better 'creature survival rate'.

b) no water changes means possibly a shorter cure time, but a higher death rate because ammonia would be higher.

I always choose 'a', because I consider live rock and the tiny creatures that come with it to be a main reason to have a reef tank. Some of them are amazing. Stuff that most people never get to see. IMO each of them has value equal to a coral. 'A' also teaches patience, always a good thing to have.

This might be even more true when using the cure period to 'seed' dead rock. A better survival rate means a more diverse population to move to the dead rock.

IMO diversity is always good.


nalbar
 
I have been monitoring the rock very closely and think that I will just go with the faster cure time. I will do water changes if it gets over 2ppm, but until then I will just let it run.

I think that I will keep the lights on for a limited amount of time each day, to keep the coralline from dying, but will monitor it closely for algae.
 
Nalbar, Good point on the survival of the hitchikers. Prob be a while before I cure any more rock, but it's good to remember. I just wanted to get it going.
 
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