Long Term Zoa/Paly Care

Red_Blenny

New member
I've been interested in zoas/paly for a long long time and I've been researching them and I noticed that a good amount of stores usually talk about how most of the zoa colonies/frag thrive in the tank but some colonies just suddenly melt away without warning, even though there's no indication of pox/bad hitchhikers...

I'm wondering if there are certain zoas/paly that grow like weeds and other that grow nicely but only to fade away in a year or so. Maybe 'lineage' plays a factor? Or it's the condition of the tank? Or something else?

-Thanks.
 
Yeap! Light, water flow and... the less fluctuations, the better.
Good alkalinity, low phosphates and low nitrates.
Clean water (not "nutrient rich"). Constant temperature (79-81F)
Also, I've notice that when you feed small amount of particulate/liquid invert food they tend to keep their natural look. I believe their internal muscles are stimulated and therefore their body structure are a bit stronger.
The metabolism is more active, I guess.

Bottom line:
It's the combination of factors that will help us to maintain zoanthids for long periods of time in aquariums.

Grandis.
 
Agree with what everyone above says. There are some zoas/palys out there that are just known melters (not many of these though) but that could be for several different reasons. Most of the known melters are generally small frags and the zoas might just be sensative to fragging. I have always done better personally with zoas out of other peoples tanks.
 
+1 i have a lot of different zoas and paly's over the years and i have had some massive colonies and must with no issue but every once in a while i have had a few melt. but i have also been able to save the colonies by once i see things going wrong i frag it and am usually able to save it.
 
Thanks guys. I guess zoas/paly are hardier than I thought. As long you keep your parameters consistent, they'll thrive.
 
I've only had freshly frag polyps melt, not established colonies. I'm sure there are diseases out there that could cause it, but I'm sure its rare. Over all these are very hardy corals.
 
L.E.D Lighting

L.E.D Lighting

What type/brand of L.E.D lighting are you using for your Zoo's? I ask because I have a Marineland reef capable 10,000K on my 29 and was wondering if anyone has had success with this light and Zoo''s? I know they do not require as much light as say Montipora or other SPS but I was just curious. Currently I have a Devil's Hand frag and some small mushrooms that are doing well in the 29 under the L.E.D. By the way, that is a really cool light but, they really could use a second plug or a built in timer for the night lights, sucks that you can't put it on a timer to control both sets of lights. Otherwise, a really cool light!
 
What type/brand of L.E.D lighting are you using for your Zoo's? I ask because I have a Marineland reef capable 10,000K on my 29 and was wondering if anyone has had success with this light and Zoo''s? I know they do not require as much light as say Montipora or other SPS but I was just curious. Currently I have a Devil's Hand frag and some small mushrooms that are doing well in the 29 under the L.E.D. By the way, that is a really cool light but, they really could use a second plug or a built in timer for the night lights, sucks that you can't put it on a timer to control both sets of lights. Otherwise, a really cool light!

I'm using a DIY unit with 24 CREE XPE and XPG mixed. Royal Blues and Neutral whites are on different dimmable ballasts. I'm about to build another one with 14 LEDs that will run on PWM from an Arduino. They have already come down in price since I build my last one.
 
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