Looking for a QT tank plan for my 120g acro tank
- Thread starter Nanook
- Start date
prop-frags
SPS Slave
Sure thing Dave.
There are a few things we've tried over the years.
You'll want something with a decent light, so you can have less brown-out.
Small is good, since you'll be doing water changes, and the dosing will be expensive if you have too much water volume.
Prazipro is highly effective against flatworms, and other such critters, and you can run interceptor for the redbugs.
We haven't found a systemic treatment for the bad nudibranchs, you need to dip for those, and then keep in your QT for monitoring.
At least 2 weeks for observation and for the dips and systemic treatments to be effective.
A big adjustment for us was a psychological thing - you have to accept that if the coral dies in QT, it's better than risking a system epidemic. This is VERY hard for expensive, sensitive corals that you'd be tempted to just throw into the display. Believe me, we have had plenty of corals die during the dips and QT regimen. But happily, no big problems in the display as a result.
There are a few things we've tried over the years.
You'll want something with a decent light, so you can have less brown-out.
Small is good, since you'll be doing water changes, and the dosing will be expensive if you have too much water volume.
Prazipro is highly effective against flatworms, and other such critters, and you can run interceptor for the redbugs.
We haven't found a systemic treatment for the bad nudibranchs, you need to dip for those, and then keep in your QT for monitoring.
At least 2 weeks for observation and for the dips and systemic treatments to be effective.
A big adjustment for us was a psychological thing - you have to accept that if the coral dies in QT, it's better than risking a system epidemic. This is VERY hard for expensive, sensitive corals that you'd be tempted to just throw into the display. Believe me, we have had plenty of corals die during the dips and QT regimen. But happily, no big problems in the display as a result.
Thank you so much for your response, I can tell you speak from lots of experience and I really appreciate your help. I know I have that mentality as well with expensive/rare frags, but it makes a lot of sense but still might be challenging
. I'm thinking a 20 gallon long tank with a HOB filter, powerhead, heater and small T5 fixture. I can dose two-part to keep alkalinity and calcium close to my display.
aquaph8
Love The Fish
Few things I do
*periodic dips (you wanna get those critters as they hatch before they lay new eggs)
Eggs are your biggest issue
*get rid of those frag plugs, this is where most eggs will be. Throwing them out along with a dip should take care of most of your worries
*use a magnifying glass to check over everything else
Your 20L should be great, I doubt you'll need to dose much to it with water changes. I'd imagine your dip regiment is gonna be the hardest on the corals.
*periodic dips (you wanna get those critters as they hatch before they lay new eggs)
Eggs are your biggest issue
*get rid of those frag plugs, this is where most eggs will be. Throwing them out along with a dip should take care of most of your worries
*use a magnifying glass to check over everything else
Your 20L should be great, I doubt you'll need to dose much to it with water changes. I'd imagine your dip regiment is gonna be the hardest on the corals.
