Looking for advice

[oceanicblue]

Recently switch from PC fixture to a T5 HO fixture. The new fixture is the Nova Extreme Pro. After a few weeks with the new fixture we are experiencing an outbreak of hair algae. We have not had a problem with algae in the past. The tank has been up and running with the PC's for two years.

Looking for options/opinions. Not sure if we want to put the old PC's back on or opt to purchasing new T5 bulbs and which kind. Should we add more Actinics or 10K? Or another type. We really like the way the tank looks with the T5 fixture before all went south.

 

[GPhiAce]

What are your parameters especially the PO4, NO3, and Mg? Are you sure that it is hair algae and not some form of caulerpa? Did you ease into the T5s or did you keep the same photoperiod.

You could try correcting any parameters that are off. Pick off the hair algae. Get a fish that will eat it. Or try a Nudi (I think those are the ones that eat it, but don't quote me). I am sure someone with better help will chime in. I am still a rookie.

 

[EvilMel]

You don't have those crummy 6500 Kelvin bulbs in that T-5 fixture do you?

 

[ct_vol]

Hair Algae usually comes from excess nutrients in lower flow areas... PC's suck and probably didn't give your aquarium the lighting it needed... Now with T5's you are more than likely seeing the result of poor water quality you've always had... As Melanie stated, I would steer clear of all bulbs less than 10K... Do a water change, run some GAC, and maybe a phospad... You'll be fine after a while...

 

[oceanicblue]

You don't have those crummy 6500 Kelvin bulbs in that T-5 fixture do you?

No they are not the 6500K. 10K is in the fixture.

 

[oceanicblue]

Hair Algae usually comes from excess nutrients in lower flow areas... PC's suck and probably didn't give your aquarium the lighting it needed... Now with T5's you are more than likely seeing the result of poor water quality you've always had... As Melanie stated, I would steer clear of all bulbs less than 10K... Do a water change, run some GAC, and maybe a phospad... You'll be fine after a while...

Poor water quality (maybe). I do a 20% water change every 3 week. Use RO water from the LFS. As of now there are only 4 small fish in the tank (180 gallon tank). There's about 110 pound of live rock in the tank as well.

 

[Quiet Tempest]

Do you have much coralline algae growth in the tank? If you can encourage new or additional growth of wanted algae like coralline and macro algae, it should out-compete the nuisance stuff by usurping the nutrients in the water. I'm just getting back into this hobby and could be wrong but I think that's right...?

 

[EvilMel]

Well what's your flow like? Could you have had an accumulation of detritis on the rocks in certain spots? Maybe blowing off the rocks before water changes would help?

 

[ct_vol]

What kind of filtration are you using? Protein skimmers are practically essential in reef aquaria.

 

[oceanicblue]

What kind of filtration are you using? Protein skimmers are practically essential in reef aquaria.

Trickle filter and Protein Skimmer.

 

[oceanicblue]

What kind of filtration are you using? Protein skimmers are practically essential in reef aquaria.

Two Seio 620 power heads.

 

[EvilMel]

What brand of protein skimmer?

 

[cee]

Lots of good ideas here. Based on the info here my guess is you have 2 potential problems. 1. Old LR. I see you've been on RC since 2003, and if your LR is that old and has been in a tank with poor circulation (2 Seio 620s isn't much for a 180) you probably have lots of phosphate bound up in your rock. It won't necessarily show up on a test, either, and will take time to get rid of. Your light increase just gave the algae the missing ingredient it needed to thrive. 2. RO water from a LFS could be introducing nitrates and phosphates into the system. If it is not passed over a mixed resin bed (the DI part) it is likely to not be as pure as you really need for a full-blown reef tank. Ask them what the water's TDS is next time you purchase it.

Your new lighting should be fine, I wouldn't go back to PCs. Try blowing on your LR with a turkey baster and see how much detritus comes up. Ideally, none, but I don't think I've ever seen that be the case. The more you can get off you LR into your sump to be exported by the skimmer and/or manual removal when doing water changes the better.

Good luck and if you'd like to bring me a water sample I can run all the tests on it for you including some you won't be able to get done at a LFS.

Dave

 

[goreefer]

I totally agree with what Dave has said.
Having gone through the PC to T5 change myself I had simular isues with my tank. The PAR value of T5's is drastically higher than the PC's, even with less total wattage.
I would go with Dave's reccomendations, but also be patient to allow your system to catch up with the increased lighting that you have added to your system.
When ever you make changes to a closed system you have to be ready for how that system reacts to the changes.
In the end you will be very satisfied with the change.

 

[oceanicblue]

Thanks Dave for the information. Some of the live rock we have had for awhile (4yrs). It was transfered out of the 110 gallon we once had. I agree with the circulation. This is an easy fix. I have been meaning to increase the circulation, just have not got around to it. Interesting thought on the LFS RO water.