Looking for Opinions or Info

rnhrtfan

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Has any one heard of or dealt (sp?) with this groap? www.marcorocks.com

As I have mentioned before I am currently staging a plan for a tank upgrade and trying to get sources for all things needed. I like the look of the rock and the shapes but not too sure about the product. Planning on using about half to three fourths of base rock and the rest of live rock. Give me your thoughts please.
 
Also wanted to ask a MH light fixtures but forgot to add that to the original post. I work in the contruction industry and have access to MH fixtures that are used as temporary fixtures during construction many different types and brands. have any of you seen or maybe used these fixtures in hoods before? aside from the light spectrum (which can be changed by purchasing a different bulb) I don't know of that much of a difference. sorry for the additional post and I appreciate your comments.
 
I would think about any brand of ballast would work, reflector and socket as well. These are pretty standard IMO. Just make sure you know if it is magnetic, pluse start, probe start that kind of thing, so that you don't end up buying a bulb that the ballast can't fire. Also make sure that it can fire the bulb in a horizontal position.
 
The rock company looks ok to me. As far as the MH question, if you want to build a canopy you should be fine there also. You would need to put the ballasts in a project box and wire them to your lights. You will have to buy some reflectors for your canopy to make it more efficient.
 
i recently put two of those type metal halide setups into a 12X12 metal junction box, i used some heavy duty computer cords i had and even made quick disconnects - also a small pc fan mounted on one of the "knockouts" on the box to help keep it cool plus punch out a few of the other knockouts to help keep air flowing, and its working great. You can get those junction boxes for about $20
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9502733#post9502733 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stevebeaver
i recently put two of those type metal halide setups into a 12X12 metal junction box, i used some heavy duty computer cords i had and even made quick disconnects - also a small pc fan mounted on one of the "knockouts" on the box to help keep it cool plus punch out a few of the other knockouts to help keep air flowing, and its working great. You can get those junction boxes for about $20

I used a 12 x 12 utility box from Grainger(sp). But where do you find them for $20. I paid way more than that for the ones I found.


I left mine sealed with no fans, has been working great for over a year now.

I purchased heavy duty cord from Leonards electric. I to added connections for quick disconnects. My on / off switches are inside the canopy, the box was just to hard / thick to try cutting holes for the switches.
 
I will look and see if I can find mine I actually took pictures along the way. But don't know which disk they are on so I will look for them.
 
Fans are a nice touch but you really don't need them on the ballasts at all, they will operate the same either way.
 
If the ballast get hotter than "planned" it will shorten their working life but who is to say by how much. The cost of the fan and the electric to turn it may outweigh the ballast replacement cost over several years. They are made to run really hot. You should get 7-10 years out of one at least under normal operation. That is not to say that you can not get more with/without a fan, may depend on the ballast and just how hot it gets.

IMO the additional air can do nothing but help extend the life, but may not be necessary. If the ballast is raised from the mounting surface so that air can circulate behind it (still grounded to box) - that will help a ton.

Some of the enclosed ballast have thermal protection and will cut off if they become excessively hot.
 
Usually, the only part that goes bad on them is the capacitor so you can just replace it when it goes out.
 
My Brother in Law told me the main issue with the heat was with the capacitor. So I located my capacitor in my canopy. Easy to get to if something should happen and it goes out. But it is also cooled by the fans in the canopy, as well as not getting as hot.
 
here is a pic of my setup. as for the fan here's my opinion.. the ballasts i had were encased in an aluminum housings which acts as a great heat sink. unlike the junction box. Even with the fan on my setup its very hot to the touch. the fan only uses .025ma so it only cost a few cents to run. Only thing i know for certain is it wont die until the first day that i leave for a weeks vacation, so it doesn't matter anyways.

mh2.jpg

mh1.jpg
 
I put mine in 2 seperate boxes so I could run them from different circuits. they can sit close to the wall plug and still reach the canopy. there are quick disconnects coming from both the ballast box and the canopy.
 
each ballast has its own power cord and i ran a 2 dedicated circuits to the wall just for it. each ballast could have its own ciruit but it works ok like this.
 
Steve, did you remove the ballast components from a housing? the units that i have availabe most all come in a housing with a "built-in" heat sink almost like a remote ballast such as a ice cap ballast that could be mounted in the stand or the hood. but would need hard wired like you have done.
 
IMO, it is best to not mount the ballasts in the stand and definitely not in the hood. There is too great of a likely hood they can get wet. I think it is best to remote mount the ballasts if possible. To answer your question rnhrtfan, you can just pull the components out of the housing and re-wire them in a box.
 
yes they were exactly like what you are describing. and i did what phil just stated " pull the components out of the housing and re-wire them in a box." its easy to do.
i agree, keep them away from water.
 
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