Looking for some Feedback on Large tank

[jminick2]

Put my deposit down on a new tank today, I told him I wanted to get back with him on the details of the tank, but I was pretty sure I wanted 96 X 30 x 24 that's 30 from front to back and 24 from top to bottom.

Couple questions I have. I was thinking of having him build an external overflow on the back for more room in the tank. Is this a good idea? What size drains do I need? I have a reeflo hammerhead return pump. I have custom 100g sump and a 300g stock tank I could use either as a sump.

This will be a reef sps heavy.

Is there anything I'm not thinking of? Anything you guys wish you could of done different?

Also its from Midwest custom aquariums if anyone has experience with them.

Thanks

 

[jminick2]

OTher details - I have a Reef octopus 5000sss skimmer, 48 inch ATI powermodule, I'm going to have a centerpiece custom made by a ceramic guy it'll be arch/grotto type thing. That's going to be the only rock in the Display the ATI will be over the centerpiece with LEDS in the excess to cut back on power.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

I would use a Bean Animal drain system, it uses 3 drain holes & I would NOT go less than 1 1/4 " piping.
Read the thread here on RC for more information.

 

[breck]

Too funny. I just put my deposit with MCA as well for the same size tank. I'll be following along. Good luck!

 

[wings516]

How come you went 24" high? (Just curious)

I have been working with Titan and they are awesome; can't speak to Midwest.

 

[jminick2]

Looking for some Feedback on Large tank

How come you went 24" high? (Just curious)



I have been working with Titan and they are awesome; can't speak to Midwest.

Seemed like a happy medium for workability and lighting needs. I've heard a lot of people complain about deep tanks not being to get something at the bottom. I also want clams, so I was worried about lighting a real deep tank didn't really want to run 400w metal halides and I already have nice 48 inch 54w ATI fixture that's really only good up to 24inches. I thought about going 30 but it's already 300 gallons I figured that was big enough for any reef safe fish.

 

[Brando457]

24" in my opinion is the perfect height, my arms reach the bottom comfortably. At 30" anything on the bottom will be difficult to reach without getting your upper body wet.

This will be a gorgeous tank.

 

[Volcano1]

My 300 was the same size, my new 420 is 28" deep and 36" front to back. It was a lot easier to get to the bottom of the 24" tank than the current 28". I did make the stand slightly taller, but I think it is more the tank. I'm 6'3", and barley get to the bottom. The taller you go. usually the thicker glass you need as well.The extra height does give you a little more rock work options and gives the fish a little more room to move on the top end.I think anything more than 28", makes getting to the bottom a little more of a chore.I guess if you 7', then some of this doesn't matter.
I ran 1.5" on the 300 and went with 2" on the 420.I run a bean with external overflow and have been very happy. I only run a Dart for return, but it seems it could handle quit a bit more.I do like the extra width of the 36", but makes it a challenge to get in the door. The external overflow may provide an issue also. I added mine after the tank got in the house. I would go as big as you could on the plumbing. You can always dial it down with valves , but if you go with smaller plumbing, you can never dial it up.
This thread has great info on overflows.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1541946

Both my tanks were eurobraced. It's great for lighting and moving things around. Downside is it's tough to get Tunze waveboxes to work well with it. You need to have them slightly above the water line. I didn't want to drop the water level in the display, to have a gap at the top. It you have an in wall or a canopy that covers the top part of the tank, it may be a non issue. I did leave a 3/4 gap between the internal weir and the eurobracing.
I used two 100 gallon stock tanks, daisy chained for my sump. There are challenges to working with them as a sump, due to their make up. It's easy to drill, but hard to put any watertight dividers in them. If the sumps are in a basement , put some styro under them to limit heat transfer.
Just remember, the larger you go the more dough for everything, salt, rock, livestock,chemicals, etc, etc.
The up side, things stay a little more stable.It takes a little more to swing temp, alk, salinity,unless you really want to.
Hope some of this helps.

 

[jminick2]

My 300 was the same size, my new 420 is 28" deep and 36" front to back. It was a lot easier to get to the bottom of the 24" tank than the current 28". I did make the stand slightly taller, but I think it is more the tank. I'm 6'3", and barley get to the bottom. The taller you go. usually the thicker glass you need as well.The extra height does give you a little more rock work options and gives the fish a little more room to move on the top end.I think anything more than 28", makes getting to the bottom a little more of a chore.I guess if you 7', then some of this doesn't matter.
I ran 1.5" on the 300 and went with 2" on the 420.I run a bean with external overflow and have been very happy. I only run a Dart for return, but it seems it could handle quit a bit more.I do like the extra width of the 36", but makes it a challenge to get in the door. The external overflow may provide an issue also. I added mine after the tank got in the house. I would go as big as you could on the plumbing. You can always dial it down with valves , but if you go with smaller plumbing, you can never dial it up.
This thread has great info on overflows.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1541946

Both my tanks were eurobraced. It's great for lighting and moving things around. Downside is it's tough to get Tunze waveboxes to work well with it. You need to have them slightly above the water line. I didn't want to drop the water level in the display, to have a gap at the top. It you have an in wall or a canopy that covers the top part of the tank, it may be a non issue. I did leave a 3/4 gap between the internal weir and the eurobracing.
I used two 100 gallon stock tanks, daisy chained for my sump. There are challenges to working with them as a sump, due to their make up. It's easy to drill, but hard to put any watertight dividers in them. If the sumps are in a basement , put some styro under them to limit heat transfer.
Just remember, the larger you go the more dough for everything, salt, rock, livestock,chemicals, etc, etc.
The up side, things stay a little more stable.It takes a little more to swing temp, alk, salinity,unless you really want to.
Hope some of this helps.

That helps a lot, thank you