low pH due to no lights/photosynthesis?

[uhuru]

Hey guys, since I have converted my elos mini to 100% NPS, my pH has been really low. It stays around 7.7 - 7.8. I think it is not just from the lack of photosynthesis, but the constant dosing of food (which I'm still slowly increasing) and large bacterial and pod population. Any ideas on what to do, if anything? I'm not going to add a fuge, no room for it.

 

[jptenklooster]

because of high feeding you get more bacteria and other animals which will result in a built up of CO2. The best way of removing this is by using a skimmer. Important is the use of fresh air, preferably from outside your house. This should increasethe pH. If still not sufficient you can always combine it by using CaOH reactor or simply by adding this to your food (food is a bit acidic as well). This is working very well for me. Take care that the skimmer is using enough air and makes really small bubbles, this increases the exchange of CO2 and O2 for your tank.

cheers,

jp

 

[uhuru]

I have considered a kalk reactor or kalk dripping but since my tank does not really use it, I would be also be increasing the Ca and Alk as the week goes on.

 

[Aquabacs]

At you ph being at 7.7 - 7.8, what is your water change schedule? Water temp?What is the fresh mixed salt being tested at?

I found on my non-phoosynthetic 24: lighting is used for viewing about 4hrs or less a day otherwise lighting is ambient from the room (working on a Japanese style spot light project to highlight the corals). I feed alot (posted my schedule on another thread) and to keep is as stable as possible I have been changing lately between 5-8 gallons 2x a week, temp is kept between 73-74 degrees, skim very wet, also been dosing Fauna Marin's Ultralith system.


Mike

 

[uhuru]

Hey Mike,

I haven't tested the pH of newly mixed salt will do that later today though. I use red sea coral pro. I have only been doing wc 1x/wk but I have since doubled food dosage (with great results in my Dendronephthya) and so will now be doing 2x/wk. Nanos have their disadvantages but one big advantage is the ease of doing wc's, so I'll take advantage of that! My water has a slight green tint to it and the glass grows bacterial film daily. I am also going to cut my vodka dosing in 1/2, and have actually starting dosing a small amount of kalk, just enough to keep the pH from falling further than 7.8. The corals do seem unhappy when it drops below that. I have started to turn on the lights again too. Slowly ramping it up to 4 hrs/day. Temp is 74-75, oversized nw skimmer so aeration is not the issue.

Greenish water:

 

[Aquabacs]

Have you had any issues when the water goes greenish over a certain point with your gorgs? When mine hits a certain level they will stay closed for a day or so. I let the glass build up for 2 days, scrap it for additional food, then next day do the water change. If you up the water changes check your ph level again, you might not need the kalk. Besides water changes I also run a small amount of I run a small amount of carbon (FM carbL) to keep the green down.

For salt, I went to Coralife (was using RC). It is good quality, not hard on the pocket when you need to do a lot of water changes, and is easily available locally.

For Dendronephthya, I was able to keep for almost 8 months, then one day they looked like they were melting. I tested everything, I checked my log books to see if I did anything different, checked my RO system, everything that might have been done in my house...couldn't figure it out why. Now I will keep anything non-photo/filter feeders just not them...oh...and not thos Aussie spider sponges either...just a quick way to lose money.

I found that gorgs in nanos seem to do alot better, that may also be the same with Dendronephthya. The turnover & higher concentrations of food getting directly to the corals have been working better than in my 90.

Mike

 

[uhuru]

Well I have a purple menella that just refuses to open. For the first 2 weeks it didn't open at all. Now I notice it opens a little more everyday, for short periods of time. I don't know if its "shy" or what. It's weird because my red/yellow menella is doing great, as is my guaiagorgia and diodogorgia. They don't seem to be bothered by the green water at all.

My dendronephthya is doing better than my other softies, I'm not sure why either. I only have 1 now but I'm looking to add a few more, maybe even replace my other softies that aren't doing as well. From what little info I've been able to gather, your experience with dendronephthya is not uncommon, but I am hoping that is not what happens for me! I have even read something about them having a lifespan in the wild of only 2 yrs. That WOULD explain a lot, but I'd like to see more research on that.

I keep making changes to my setup plan for my 150g based on the experiences I'm having now. I'm thinking of taking a 150g rubbermaid tub and turning it into a large chaeto fuge, with 2 or 3 separate compartments. The lighting scheme will be setup so that there is always active photosynthesis going on, but not 24hrs straight for any one compartment.

As for this tank the kalk dosing has been working great. pH is now at 7.9.