LPS secrets?

gholtmeyer

New member
What do you think are the key secrets to keeping lps? What lights, flow, food, etc work best for you? What about skimming? Heavy skimming, skimmer on timer, run skimmer every other day? I have a mixed reef with sps, lps, leathers, etc. Do you think that leathers can inhibit lps growth? I know that lps, sps, and leathers can not touch. What about lps, can they touch other lps without harming each other?
 
I don't let my LPS touch at all. I know some will not kill others--but I don't want to risk it.

I have had acans devastate neighboring coral that fell into them because of a Turbo snail or current knocking them over.

I wish there was a list or something so I could separate my LPS better!! :)
 
LPS is a very large catagory with many corals of differing needs. What are you wanting to keep? I only have a few, mostly acans, blastos and a micro. The only common ground I find is they all love meaty foods.
 
I only keep lps, a couple of softies.

You should be able to keep alot of them under medium flow and power compacts.

I have a surface skimmer if you count that.

Some LPS can touch each other some can't.
 
Feed them.Ive grown lps under every type of light except pc.From no bulbs the metal hallides.Never had a problem except a favia and hammer.Im not a big fan of mushrooms because they did some nasty damage along with a red mythrx crab to my wall hammer.As far as lps touching id say DONT DO IT.I had a piece of digi break off and it landed on one of my brains.I could barely pry it off.Keep your sps om top and your lps on the bottom and you will be ok.
 
Along these same lines, at one point is a tank so deep that PC lighting won't be enough? At one point, as far as tank depth, would you upgrade to MH? For the t5 users, I've noticed sps keepers putting as many bulbs as will fit over the tank. How are lps/softie keeper determining how many t5 bulbs to use? How does it relate to tank depth?
 
Requirements can vary with the LPS. I keep mostly Euphyllias with Candy Canes, Acans, Blastos, a Plate, a Cyanaria and a Bubble with a few SPS mixed in.

I had a mixed LPS / Softie tank and moved the LPS to their own tank and I noticed a significant improvement. Could be the species competition or the fact that the LPS tank flow was more LPS friendly, or both. I recently added some Ricordia, but no leathers, kenyas, colts, etc. I really wanted this to be an LPS only tank, but I have some generous friends that I couldn't refuse!:D

For LPS, low to moderate flow with occasional surges.

I feed meaty stuff. Mysis and Cyclopeeze for the Blastos and Candy Canes, Mysis and small pieces of Krill for the Hammers and Frogspawns, Whole Krill for the plate, cyanaria and bubble.

I skim 24/7, but I don't over skim.

I dose Randy's Recipe and try to keep Alk, CA and MG stable.

The tank is 20" deep and I have 550w of VHO lighting.
 
It depends:
- neon-green candycane - no special requirements, even in dirty water and low light;
- other candycanes, branching frogspawn and hammers, blastomussa merletti, lobophillia, favites (some) - more light, slightly better water;
- sun coral babies - no phosphates for better opening;
- open brain/meat types (scolymia, cynarina, symphillia) - like light (PC is OK), very hardy too, but somehow doing better separately from softies and filter feeders, even in a basic bowl with heater and small power filter, HOB.

It really makes me wonder, when I'm reading about reefers, graduating from softies to LPS - LPS are much easier, but they place more limitations on neighbors, as I said above and some of them are stinging.
I have them mostly in the basic mixed reef with softies, tridacnas babies, other filter feeders (Christmas tree worms).

Hammers and frogspawns can touch each other, scolymia and symphillia valenciennesii too, cynarina is better at least 0.5" away, candycanes, probably, can touch each other too - it was accidental touch for a short time, no problem.

All of the above - IMHE, of course.

You will see by LPS opening, how they feel. If you can - keep water quality good, skimming (any) will help, if not - also OK. No direct flow onto LPS, better reflected or farther from powerhead. Light - I had all of the above under 27W daylight spiral bulb from hardware store for a some time, plus sunlight (nano-tanks, 6-10g), higher light - better growth. May feed occassionally, I do no target feeding for candycanes and frogspawn with hammers, not frequently feed brains - by mysis or chopped seafood.

Take it easy.
 
I think there are a few things you can do to improve your successes with LPS.

For one thing, know your coral. Try to get a good idea what Genus you have, and then do some research. Knowing where a coral resided in the ocean will greatly help you keep it in your aquarium. Placement, water parameters, food, and lighting are all relative to where the corals are normally found in the ocean.
Some LPS are found in turbid lagoons with plenty of organics in the water. They would do fine in an Aquarium with no skimmer, while corals found in cleaner, clear waters would benefit from a protein skimmer.

Don't under estimate alleopathy. Many soft corals produce chemicals harmful to LPS and SPS. Some are more toxic than others. Sinulara flexibilis being one of the most toxic.(Which explains why one of my earlier reefs with a large Rasta leather could not keep most lps alive.)

All LPS eat something. They have tentacles for a reason. To Catch prey. The larger the tentacles and mouth, the larger the prey. While most LPS can survive in captivity feeding on photosynthesis alone, they don't thrive. Survival and thriving are two different things. A coral just surviving is more likely to come down with a disease or infection if something goes wrong. The Thriving coral has plenty of extra energy to help heal itself if something goes wrong.

Make sure your Alk and Calcium are maintained at proper levels.

Keep like corals together. Most LPS of the same species can be kept very closely, or even touching without a problem. There are a few exceptions, so if you plan on keeping them together, test it first. I keep 5 different Caulastrea in my home aquarium, with most of them very large colonies. The solid colored Caulastrea can touch each other, and the two toned Caulastrea touch each other, but if they get close to the solid colored ones, they send out nasty sweeper tentacles. I try to give them some space, but they grow quickly, and start to invade each others territory.
I like to keep Cynarina, Scolymias and Trachyphyllias together, and haven't had a problem yet. I keep most Euphyllia together, and all my Echinophyllia are in the same tank. Watch out for Favias and Galaxia. They can have serious sweeper tentacles. Try to keep them down stream from other corals.

The larger, puffy polyped LPS can usually be kept under lower lighting,(Euphyllia, Trachyphyllia, Cynarina, Scolymia, Fungia, Cycloseris, Plerogyra, Catalaphyllia, Alveopora and Blastomussa) while smaller polyped, massive LPS like higher lighting with more flow.(Favia, Favites, Platygyra, Goniastrea, Montastrea, Merulina, Hydnophora) Then there are a few that fall in between like Lobophyllia, Symphyllia, Acanthastrea, Caulastrea, and Turbinaria)

That's just a general list

Hope that gets you started.
 
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RandyO:
Very informative post, thanks. Can you post a little more on requirements of different candycanes and what is critical in care of scolymia, cynarina and similar, including compatibility with other corals. It's a pain trying to figure out specifics, not mentioned in care sheets and articles.

gholtmeyer: sorry for invading the thread - it's hard to find the right people. This should be useful for both of us.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9139983#post9139983 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dendro982
RandyO:
Very informative post, thanks. Can you post a little more on requirements of different candycanes and what is critical in care of scolymia, cynarina and similar, including compatibility with other corals. It's a pain trying to figure out specifics, not mentioned in care sheets and articles.

gholtmeyer: sorry for invading the thread - it's hard to find the right people. This should be useful for both of us.

Candy corals are generally found in Sandy areas and reef slopes protected from heavy wave action. Most Candycane corals like a medium amount of light, low to medium flow, and benifit from feedings of small meaty foods, like Mysis and Brine shrimp. The polyps should look plump, and hide the skeleton. If you notice on most wild Candycane corals, the inside skeleton is white. Just like the underside of a Euphyllia skelton. That's because light is not able to get in because the coral is fluffed up during the day. If your candycane is not puffy, it may be in too much light. Other than that, it's care is similar to other LPS. They like a constant high Alk and Calcium, and stable water conditions.

I keep my Candys towards the bottom front of my reef, lit with 250's and a single 400 w halide run for 2 hours a day. Some can take more light than others, and it's best not to over do the lighting. A coral can be in shaded conditions for many weeks without ill effects, while a coral in too much light can be damaged after one day.


Scolymia and Cynaria corals occur on inshore turbid water reefs and are typically found attached to hardbottoms or free living on muddy sediments. They don't require a lot of light. When kept in the same reef as I stated above, they bleached out while the Candys received twice as much light. They can be kept under 175 - 250 watt halides, on the bottom of the tank. 250's might be too much on a tank lower than 24" tall, unless the coral is off to the side in indirect light.
I've had some bad experiences with feeding my Scolymia larger foods, so I don't anymore. I feed them Brine and mysis. It's much easier for them to digest. They don't need much flow, and actually will not open if they get too much flow. The flow can tear their flesh, and cause some teeth to be exposed. And once algae starts to grow on an exposed tooth, the coral will not open up as much.
 
I feel like an ant - my tanks are nano, the green candycane is under 18W combo PC, the stongest light is in 10g tank with 72W PC and direct sunlight near window. Scolymia and cynarina want more light than solid colored candycanes - and are in shallow water (6" total tank depth), exposed to sunlight and 27W daylight bulb in the desktop lamp... :(

But they grow:
cynarinasideSept26-1.jpg

scolloboNov8.jpg

candy2Dec9.jpg

candy1Nov15.jpg

candy12Dec21.jpg

All, except green candycane, were bought damaged, for $10 each, like this (later photos are above):
candiesNCSept26.jpg
 
Could this thread be a sticky?

Any of the experts out there want to chime in on Micros and Acans?


(LPS magpie in waiting...)
 
I also can only wish, that here will be the sticky thread, where people could post the difference in care for similar species. The first step I had seen on thereeftanks.com, LPS forum too - ID thread, where you can post photos with names, or add a couple of lines on keeping.

The space in my tanks is precious, and when I bought the cold gray-greenish candycane, I was sure that all candycanes eventually will restore their bright-green color, and also had no idea, that they will become big ball-shaped colony. :eek:

danch: do you want to start this thread? Even non-sticky thread of interest will be found by forum members.
 
Honestly, I was just thinking it might be nice to get this thread stickied. Already some good stuff here...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9142229#post9142229 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RandyO
I've had some bad experiences with feeding my Scolymia larger foods, so I don't anymore. I feed them Brine and mysis. It's much easier for them to digest.

Randy, what bad experiences have you had with large foods? I've been feeding my Cyanaria whole krill for the last month and I want to keep my eyes open. I notice the day after a feeding it's slightly less extended, but it seems to be thriving.
 
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