Macro for D50

usfpaul82

New member
I know there is another macro lens thread right below this one, but I don't want to hijack it. I am new to the photgraphy world and also want to get a macro lens. 2 weeks ago I picked up a used Nikon D50 for a great price. I am happy with the lenses I have for everyday shooting, but want to get a macro. I have done some research and do not want to spend more than 3 - 400. I understand that I will probably have to get a used one at this price. I have seen Sigma 105mm f/2.8 1:1 go for 400 new and 250 or so used. I also see good prices for manual focus 105mm nikon micros with the same aperture. Can someone suggest what would be best for me with the D50? It would be greatly appreceated. This would mainly be used for taking pictues of my reef. Thanks.
 
I've used and thoroughly enjoyed the Nikon 105mm AF (non-VR) that a friend owns. You can get them used for $350-500 roughly. I don't think they sell the non-VR version new anymore. The VR one is around $800 I think. I'm sure it's a great lens, but to me VR doesn't seem all that useful for macro work since you'll be using a tripod most of the time anyway.

I currently own a Tamron 90mm macro with an AIS mount (which means it won't meter on a D50). If you can get over the lack of metering and auto focus, it's a great lens and I got it very cheap used (I think $60 or $80). Craigslist is a good place to look for used lenses in your area.

Here's an example image taken with a Tamron 90mm on a Nikon D50. I used F11 for this for more depth of field.

1-13-115b6429.jpg
 
Can someone give me a quick and dirty run down on what metering is and what determines if it can be done on my camera? Thanks
 
Metering in a nut shell is the camera's approximation of how much light is in the scene. It looks at what you are shooting and gives you a reading of what won't be too bright or too dark. Of course the meter isn't always right...but if you understand how it works it is predictable wrong. If you shoot snow for instance, they meter will read too dark, so you just bump up the exposure to make it brighter.

Not being able to meter at all is like shooting a gun blindfolded. Unless you REALLY undertstand metering on a super-human level you will have to take a boat load of pictures that are too dark or too bright until you hit the correct settings through a process of elimination. With a reef tank not having metering probably isn't too huge of a deal because you can memorize the settings for various parts of your tank. If you are shooting anything else...well...I hope it doesn't move because you are going to be taking a lot of pictures before you get a good one..
 
here are some pics of my acans i took today...not with macro of course....can't wait until i get a macro on them. These are literally after 2 days of owning my camera. Any thoughts or opinions would be great. Thanks.

DSC_6334.jpg


DSC_6368.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14848770#post14848770 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by usfpaul82
can someone please tell me if this is a good macro for my D50? For reef pictures. Thanks...

http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/Prod...BC=&BCC=&CC=&CCC=&BCL=&GBC=&GCC=&KW=nikon 105

That lens is Non AI mount, which means it is likely to damage your camera if you try to mount it. Even if it did mount, it still won't meter on a D50. It's an old lens. You can alter the lens with a dremel to make it mount without damaging your camera I believe, but I've never tried that.

If you're looking for a cheap macro lens for your aquarium and don't mind a lack of metering, get an AI or AIS mount lens.

Here's some info on Nikon lens compatibility: http://www.bythom.com/lensacronyms.htm.
 
Non metering lenses are easy to use. Set the camera to M, make a guess at what the exposure should be, shoot and then check the LCD. With very little practice, you'll probably be within a stop or two most of the time.

Not having a meter is a big deal if you are shooting film. When you have an LCD, it's not.

http://www.flickr.com/groups/365610@N21/

An AI conversion will run you about $30 if you can't do it yourself (getting the screws out is usually the hardest part). A file works better than a dremil.
 
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