azcatsfan
In Memoriam
I am new. I have a 130 gallon mixed reef setup. Around a 30 gallon sump I would guess. Tank has been setup for years before I got it. It was setup at my place the day after Christmas.
It was moved and the substrate was not replaced. One third of it thrown away and the rest rinsed well. I think. I did not know better . I pd for supposed professional help.
Anyway, the two clowns , chromis and cardinal fish that came with and are still alive. I killed purchased powder brown tang, and long tentacle purple . I had a mandrian get eaten by 3 foot long Oenone Fulgida worm Or at least part of him was . I caught the worm. Seemed to be the only one. Fish added seem to be thriving. Sail fin, some type of sand sifting Goby(midnight goby?), yellow wrase, cleaner shrimp. Among others(snails , crabs, ect.). I just wanted to paint a little picture.
So the deal is this. My Ca has been off the chart and is just now down to 560.
Mag is at 1360. My alk is low if I do not dose regular so I am. 150 ml a day just to maintain current level. I have been holding steady and raising it slowly. I want to drive it up to 11 dKH. I have made it up to 9 dKH over the past week. The worry is my Ph is between 7.65 and 7.8. Why? I am using Bulk reefs two part system (recipe #1). My frog spawn and Pagoda cup are doing awesome. My phosphate and nitrates and ect. do not seem to be an issue. My lights run from 11 am to 10 pm and my halide runs from 12 noon to 9 pm. I did have a sea lab #28 block in there , suggested by the same pro that moved tank and kept same substrate. I removed it a few days ago. Do you guys think if I keep dosing Alk and do 10% water change once a month that my PH will straighten out once my Ca finally gets in line. Or do I have a problem with nitrogen from old substrate leaching C02? Or something like that? I do have plenty of water break at the surface. I am not running any reactors. Just a protein skimmer. Carbon and GFO in nylon. I do have new substrate in sump when I did water change. I also running a light in sump with not chato but the stuff with the berrys on it. Sorry I am ignorant. That light kicks on the whole time the light on the canopy is off. Any thought on adding a bio enzyme to try to safely kick tank out of a nitrogen cycle. That worked well with fresh water,and the same company makes salt water enzyme. Thanks for the discussion . :uhoh3:
It was moved and the substrate was not replaced. One third of it thrown away and the rest rinsed well. I think. I did not know better . I pd for supposed professional help.
Anyway, the two clowns , chromis and cardinal fish that came with and are still alive. I killed purchased powder brown tang, and long tentacle purple . I had a mandrian get eaten by 3 foot long Oenone Fulgida worm Or at least part of him was . I caught the worm. Seemed to be the only one. Fish added seem to be thriving. Sail fin, some type of sand sifting Goby(midnight goby?), yellow wrase, cleaner shrimp. Among others(snails , crabs, ect.). I just wanted to paint a little picture.
So the deal is this. My Ca has been off the chart and is just now down to 560.
Mag is at 1360. My alk is low if I do not dose regular so I am. 150 ml a day just to maintain current level. I have been holding steady and raising it slowly. I want to drive it up to 11 dKH. I have made it up to 9 dKH over the past week. The worry is my Ph is between 7.65 and 7.8. Why? I am using Bulk reefs two part system (recipe #1). My frog spawn and Pagoda cup are doing awesome. My phosphate and nitrates and ect. do not seem to be an issue. My lights run from 11 am to 10 pm and my halide runs from 12 noon to 9 pm. I did have a sea lab #28 block in there , suggested by the same pro that moved tank and kept same substrate. I removed it a few days ago. Do you guys think if I keep dosing Alk and do 10% water change once a month that my PH will straighten out once my Ca finally gets in line. Or do I have a problem with nitrogen from old substrate leaching C02? Or something like that? I do have plenty of water break at the surface. I am not running any reactors. Just a protein skimmer. Carbon and GFO in nylon. I do have new substrate in sump when I did water change. I also running a light in sump with not chato but the stuff with the berrys on it. Sorry I am ignorant. That light kicks on the whole time the light on the canopy is off. Any thought on adding a bio enzyme to try to safely kick tank out of a nitrogen cycle. That worked well with fresh water,and the same company makes salt water enzyme. Thanks for the discussion . :uhoh3:
