So I was thinking about a cheaper alternative to buying an all acrylic tank and an easier one than fabrication since i don't have the tools. My idea is to take a standard glass cheapo and maybe line the sides and bottom with 1/4" acrylic, stuck on with silicone aquarium sealant. What I'm worried about is dead water space between the acrylic and glass. Would this be a problem? If not does this sound like a decent idea or are there other problems?
Mantis tank setup
- Thread starter nubreefer
- Start date
T-T-Trigger
Premium Member
if you are going to buy the acrylic, why not just make a tank out of that? Just go to a plastics shop (around here it is TAP plastics) and tell them the size pieces you need - they probably have the size you want in the scrap bins, then you can have them cut it - gives you nice edges. The acrylic glue can be had there too and is very simple to apply, they should be able to tell you exactly how to do what you want to do.
To answer your question directly - I would not line a glass tank with acrylic - the chances of it looking good for long are slim.
To answer your question directly - I would not line a glass tank with acrylic - the chances of it looking good for long are slim.
how does that work? did you just lay them on their sides to prop up the panes? hmm maybe i should just be adventurous but i don't really have a lot of money to waste (starving college student) and I've been spending most of it on equipment and lighting for a reef tank that i'm going to setup as soon as i've settled into my new apartment.
slylie
New member
its easy. you can even get the acrylic pre-cut from your plastic shop for a few $ extra.. just measure and take into account the overlap, give the measurements and get some weldon 4. I used the wine bottles to hold up the panels while i was glueing it.
Many reefcentral-ers use the pins method.. personally i think its a waste of pins. just line up the panels and inject the solvent near the gap.. it will flow in.
Many reefcentral-ers use the pins method.. personally i think its a waste of pins. just line up the panels and inject the solvent near the gap.. it will flow in.
T-T-Trigger
Premium Member
they should be flat, horizontal. I agree that pins are not needed, only for really heavy pieces on larger builds.
well, you don't actually need to depending on how you assemble it. I got them cut without the overlap and the front panel won't show seems and the sides will be 1/4" high so that I can put eggcrate over the top without it sliding all over. I have a titanium heater and the normal stuff to set it up. I just need to get an adequate light. I was just thinking of something simple but I wonder if Dr. C has anything to say about light frequency and intensity effecting the stomatopod's coloration... I know that certain factors can make them fade but I wonder if a particular light will make it's colors really intense.
