Media, Bags, and all that jazz

99Trev

New member
I was reading in another post about carbon, GFO, GFC. I did not want to jump on his post, so thought I would start a new one.

I have a canister filter (4 stage) with the following in it (from the bottom up, and each basket has 2 layers in it)
basket 1
20ppi filter
30ppi filter

basket 2
5 bio balls
5 bio balls

basket 3
micro filtration
5 bio balls

basket 4
carbon
super micro filter

The last time I had my water checked at SEA they said my phosphates were a little high, and I have some low nitrates (or nitrites I get those 2 confused all the time, and don't have their sheet handy).

I am looking at possibly adding in some other chemical filtration into my canister to try and know these down. When I did a search for GFO & GFC the majority of these are "loose" in a container. I am guessing to use these I would put some in a mesh bag, and then add them into my filter.

Does the size of the mesh bag matter (as long as it is not too big for the stuff to fall out?

Can I run more than one at the same time? Or will they interferer with each other? and/or what order should/could they be run in.

I have also noticed that the algae is growing on my glass about 3 to 4 times faster than it was a couple of weeks ago. I had to clean the glass about once a week to keep things looking good. Now it is every 2 days. I am thinking the higher phosphates are causing the higher growth???

ok I have rambled on enough. Thank for any advice / suggestions / comments.
 
sometimes the canister filters build up detritus. The phosphates and nitrates are most likely from that. How often do u clean it?

I change out the pads monthly. I try and follow the recommendations on the package. But with that in mind, the 20 and 30 filters say to change every other month. I use two of each of those, and I change out one each month, placing the new one on the bottom.

The canister itself, I drain all the water out (use it to rinse out the filters that are "moving up" and to rinse the new pads) and then rinse out the canister with tap water.
 
I would ditch the canister =/
unless you really keep up the cleaning

I would really like to move over to a sump, and get rid of the canister, but I have a real space issue. There is lots of room under my tank, but the doors that go into the space is 12" wide and 22" tall.

I have sketched up an idea of using three 15 gallon rubbermaid storage containers, and bulkheads between them. The bulkheads would be similar to dividers in a "traditional" pump. The thing I am having a hard time figuring out is how much flow and flow control.

I an not very fond of the canister, and I am open to other suggestions or ideas. That is why I was asking about media and bags, if I could add in something that would help until I can get the sump thing figured out.
 
A wise man once told me to take everything out of your tank that can act as a sponge or magnet for fish poop. In your case, that would mean getting rid of the canister.
 
Best thing that ever happened to my tank was removing my fluval. Plus a little phosphate e. Went from a cyano pool to a purple coraline beauty in 2 months.
Protein skimmer and sump are cheaper in the long run also. No media to change.
 
My wife ran a LPS/SPS, 2 clowns and shrimp 26 bowfront (approx15 gal actual water after rock and crushed coral) for about 5 years on just a Protien Skimmer and one maxijet. Maybe one or two waterchanges a year.

Just saying you don't need the canister filter, it does more damage then good as detritius will break down in days in it, long before you would think to change it. Run a media reactor with Phos-ban or the likes with 1/3 high grade carbon on a low roll. Don't roll the media too high or it will pulvurize the carbon.

Some folk have used hang on filters filled wth Live Rock as a rock sump with good result too but you have to watch for detritius build up in the filter also.
 
My wife ran a LPS/SPS, 2 clowns and shrimp 26 bowfront (approx15 gal actual water after rock and crushed coral) for about 5 years on just a Protien Skimmer and one maxijet. Maybe one or two waterchanges a year.

Just saying you don't need the canister filter, it does more damage then good as detritius will break down in days in it, long before you would think to change it. Run a media reactor with Phos-ban or the likes with 1/3 high grade carbon on a low roll. Don't roll the media too high or it will pulvurize the carbon.

Some folk have used hang on filters filled wth Live Rock as a rock sump with good result too but you have to watch for detritius build up in the filter also.

Thanks for the feed back, and info. I have started to look into reactors, and thinking with my setup (an limited sump possibilities right now) that is the way to go.

It sounds like you are suggesting to use one reactor with Phos-ban and carbon in it. Would it be better to have two separate, one for Phos-band and one of carbon? I also found one reactor with two "zones", but the max size for that is 60 gal, and my tank is a 120. BRS GFO and Carbon Reactor.
 
I say just ditch the canistar filter than.

One little "glitch" with that... My fuge sits above my DT. I use the canister filter return to supply it, and then it gravity feeds back into the DT.

Could I empty the canister (of the filter pads and bio balls), and still feed the fuge that way? Or would this just be asking for the same problems?

The canister has the surface "skimmer" on it, and without it I seem to get some build up on it. So if I remove the canister, any suggestions on how to keep the water surface clean?
 
Thanks for the feed back, and info. I have started to look into reactors, and thinking with my setup (an limited sump possibilities right now) that is the way to go.

It sounds like you are suggesting to use one reactor with Phos-ban and carbon in it. Would it be better to have two separate, one for Phos-band and one of carbon? I also found one reactor with two "zones", but the max size for that is 60 gal, and my tank is a 120. BRS GFO and Carbon Reactor.

You need to keep GFO and carban separate because high quality GFO is costly and does not need to be replaced as often as the carban. You should need to run 120 grams of GFO for your size tank. Go to the reef calculator on BRS web site to confirm.
 
You can get Protien Skimmers with surface skimmers. I have always run phos media and carbon in same reactor, as I said just watch the roll rate so it does not pulverize your carbon. The 2little fishes is a great reactor, I use the PM reactor(Screw on top) and the little Eheim Powerhead (Approx 160 GPM max adjustable turned down 3/4). I dont run carbon every time I recharge the reactor, only if I notce yellow tinge to water. You want a gentle tumble, just enough to keep the Phos media from caking up.
 
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