Mega Overflow adjustment in Weir , Noise ?

fltekdiver

Active member
Hey guy's,

I just set up a 90G corner drilled tank. It came with a Mega Overflow kit

I got everything up and running, but I'm getting a ton of bubbles in the sump

Also the overflow is sticking out past the top of the weir?

If I lower the Overflow ( it's adjustable ) and kill the power,The weir drains down to the hole on the side of the overflow. It will keep draining for a few minutes into the sump. I have plenty of room in the sump still right now after I kill the power, about another 5GAL on a 40 Breeder Sump

I drilled a small hole for the siphon break on the return

The pipes used to the sump are 1" and all most a straight drop into the sump, I used 2x 45's offset about 2" , that's it

The weir also keeps dropping alittle, and I hear the water **** out of the return where I drilled it for the siphon break? It does it about every minute

I really didn't want to run a Herbie style plumbing on this tank, as I ran it on my 180SW tank, it was great, but the skimmer would oxegenate the water, this tank will be FW , so I'm concerned running a siphon
 

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Does the level in the weir stay constant or does it fill and then flush? The noise from the siphon break is normal, I ran a piece of flex tubbing down to the sump so I don't have to hear it.

Do you only have one drain or is there 2?
 
Good morning,

I have one weir in the corner, the tank is a 90 Gallon. Great idea on running a pc of tubing down to the sump

The weir stays constant to withen about 1/4" of the main tank. Then drops and flushes, then fill fills back up. I just watched it, it drops about a inch, flushes, and fills back up
 
Return siphon breaks can be noisy if they are acting like a jet nozzle and splashing the surface. You can fix this by installing a small piece of air line tubing. Drill the hole slightly smaller and wedge the tubing in and have it terminate just below the surface.

Flushing is usually caused by an imbalance between the amount of water being returned and drained. Reducing the flow on your return pump may solve this problem. Sometimes it just takes a little adjusting of the durso height and that will fix it too.

As far as bubbles in the sump, that is to be expected with a durso drain. The simplest fix is to add a filter sock, but of course that will require frequent rotating. Another option is to do what's called a reverse durso. Which is nothing more than adding a tee or wye to allow air to escape before it hits the water in the sump. You can search the Internet and find plenty of examples and variations.
 
Ok so I had the same problem. What I ended up doing was putting a ball valve on the drain line. The reason it's flushing is the pipe is filling with water and once the weight of the water builds enough pressure it flushes. The valve on the drain maneuver assumes some level of risk and relies on your sump design in order to be safe.

You sump needs to be able to handle the normal operating volume plus the volume of the pipe plus the volume of the water above the standpipe.

The volume of your return pump chamber needs to be small enough so that if you pumped the entire contents of it to the DT it wouldn't overflow, blocked drain scenario.

This what I did and haven't had a drop of water on my floor yet. Again it's not recommended to ever restrict the drain without an emergency drain, but it's possible.

These reef ready tanks are kind of a joke, the drain situation is terrible. My big tank will be drilled, cheaper and I can make it how I want.

Good luck man.
 
Thanks Cuzza, Here's some better pics of the sump and plumbing. I thought about the reversed Durso when I plumbed it, but I would have to add a 90 , and thought the 90 would make the water turbulent ? This is a easy fix If the reverse durso would work
I have 300 micro filter socks MESH all ready as part of my mechanical

Jammy I could do this also. But then that is all most what Herbie does? I ran Herbie style plumbing on my other tanks, but didn't want to on this one for oxygen reasons
 

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