Methelyne Blue baths at LFS
- Thread starter Don424
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DrChristianTroy
New member
Not at all ,Methelyne Blue is a dangerous chemical if the concentration is not well calculated!!!!!
On the other hand MOST of the sharks,HARLEQUÃÂÂN TUSKFÃÂÂSH AND also Many of the RAY are susceptible to copper threatment and Methelyne Blue also.......
For fresh water it si OK but not for all marine fishes!!!!!
On the other hand MOST of the sharks,HARLEQUÃÂÂN TUSKFÃÂÂSH AND also Many of the RAY are susceptible to copper threatment and Methelyne Blue also.......
For fresh water it si OK but not for all marine fishes!!!!!
moriartiholmes
New member
One of the LFS in my area does this...I go to the other ones 
Most of the fish seem OK but this might really mess up some of the more sensitive fish. If you have a choice in your area go somewhere else. Also it might have been the result of a diseased shipment.
Most of the fish seem OK but this might really mess up some of the more sensitive fish. If you have a choice in your area go somewhere else. Also it might have been the result of a diseased shipment.
SaltyMember
Premium Member
I am following this thread but I am confused by the answers on Methelyne Blue. In Robert Fenner's book "Conscientious Marine Aquarist", he describes combined Meth Blue and freshwater dips as less stressful than other medicated dips, oxygenating for fish, and good practice for new fish arrivals.
Regarding dosage he says you can safely go beyond the manufacturers recommended dosage. He recommends the water be a deep Royal Blue in color.
I am not trying to start anything. I just would like clarification on the subject.
Regarding dosage he says you can safely go beyond the manufacturers recommended dosage. He recommends the water be a deep Royal Blue in color.
I am not trying to start anything. I just would like clarification on the subject.
moriartiholmes said:One of the LFS in my area does this...I go to the other ones
The place I'm referring to does it as standard practice
Fenner isn't always right. I like his book, but it has flaws. The methylene blue treatment is very good.
I've used it for 15 years (before book). Methylene Blue (MB) has two effects on fishes. One is a low level treatment against some nuisance microbes; second is it has a calming affect on the fish. The LFS may be using either or both.
I dip all my new fish, going into my QT, in freshwater, with MB in it. My experiments at OSU in the '70's demonstrated that this procedure reduces disease, stress of acclimation, and infections.
I've used it for 15 years (before book). Methylene Blue (MB) has two effects on fishes. One is a low level treatment against some nuisance microbes; second is it has a calming affect on the fish. The LFS may be using either or both.
I dip all my new fish, going into my QT, in freshwater, with MB in it. My experiments at OSU in the '70's demonstrated that this procedure reduces disease, stress of acclimation, and infections.
SaltyMember
Premium Member
Thanks for the info Lee.
leebca said:Fenner isn't always right. I like his book, but it has flaws. The methylene blue treatment is very good.
I've used it for 15 years (before book). Methylene Blue (MB) has two effects on fishes. One is a low level treatment against some nuisance microbes; second is it has a calming affect on the fish. The LFS may be using either or both.
I dip all my new fish, going into my QT, in freshwater, with MB in it. My experiments at OSU in the '70's demonstrated that this procedure reduces disease, stress of acclimation, and infections.
You do a freshwater dip with it? Saltwater would not be good?
Lee, Please elaborate on your freshwater dips with methlylene blue as practice before quarantine. How long is the dip? Is the water salinity 1.0? After the dip what are the parameters of the quarantine tank? Do you just move them straight to the quarantine tank or do you acclimate them from the methyl to the QT? Also, how much methylene do you add per 5 gallons of water for these dips? Thanks.
baobao,
You've resurrected a very old thread
I will answer each of your questions. If I miss one or you need more info, just ask. . .
The length of the dip varies with the species of fish being dipped. I try to extend it to 10 minutes, but if the fish is tolerating it well, I'll go for 15 minutes or longer.
I use RO/DI water. TDS is about 11 ppm.
I run FOwLR aquariums. I favor a sp. gr. of 1.023 to 1.024. That is also my QT sp. gr. I like a cooler temperature and keep the main tank and QT at 75 to 77. pH is about 8.1.
Fish are acclimated by adding small quantities of water (half cup increments then full cup increments -- varying depending upon the volume of water in the bag to begin with) to floating bag in QT with lights off. (I do not drip acclimate -- I think that it is not a very good procedure all things considered). This I do to a portable timer I attach to my person so that each addition is exactly spaced out over time. I pour off water from the bag to the drain. After an hour of this, I check pH, temp, and sp. gr. of the bag water.
When ready (pH, temp, and sp. gr. in bag match my QT), I pour fish and bag water into a double plastic container, with plastic screen lid. The inner container is a plastic colander. I pick up the colander and put the dripping colander and fish into the dip. At the proper time (see above) I remove the colander and fish from the dip and dip the fish in normal QT water to rinse in another plastic container. I then lift the dripping colander and gently sink it in the QT and the fish calmly swims out of the colander. (No nets; reduced trauma). All bag water is discarded.
I use 5 drops of a 2% stock solution of methylene blue per liter of dip water. The dip water is pH adjusted to the same pH of the QT with sodium bicarbonate (A&H Baking Soda). I warm the dip water to the QT temperature in a microwave.
Besides the double containers with colander and lids, other equipment include a plastic 1 cup measuring cup; scissors (to cut bag); portable pH probe; portable IR thermometer; refractometer; and lots of rags and towels to control drips.
You're welcome!
:rollface:
You've resurrected a very old thread
I will answer each of your questions. If I miss one or you need more info, just ask. . .
The length of the dip varies with the species of fish being dipped. I try to extend it to 10 minutes, but if the fish is tolerating it well, I'll go for 15 minutes or longer.
I use RO/DI water. TDS is about 11 ppm.
I run FOwLR aquariums. I favor a sp. gr. of 1.023 to 1.024. That is also my QT sp. gr. I like a cooler temperature and keep the main tank and QT at 75 to 77. pH is about 8.1.
Fish are acclimated by adding small quantities of water (half cup increments then full cup increments -- varying depending upon the volume of water in the bag to begin with) to floating bag in QT with lights off. (I do not drip acclimate -- I think that it is not a very good procedure all things considered). This I do to a portable timer I attach to my person so that each addition is exactly spaced out over time. I pour off water from the bag to the drain. After an hour of this, I check pH, temp, and sp. gr. of the bag water.
When ready (pH, temp, and sp. gr. in bag match my QT), I pour fish and bag water into a double plastic container, with plastic screen lid. The inner container is a plastic colander. I pick up the colander and put the dripping colander and fish into the dip. At the proper time (see above) I remove the colander and fish from the dip and dip the fish in normal QT water to rinse in another plastic container. I then lift the dripping colander and gently sink it in the QT and the fish calmly swims out of the colander. (No nets; reduced trauma). All bag water is discarded.
I use 5 drops of a 2% stock solution of methylene blue per liter of dip water. The dip water is pH adjusted to the same pH of the QT with sodium bicarbonate (A&H Baking Soda). I warm the dip water to the QT temperature in a microwave.
Besides the double containers with colander and lids, other equipment include a plastic 1 cup measuring cup; scissors (to cut bag); portable pH probe; portable IR thermometer; refractometer; and lots of rags and towels to control drips.
You're welcome!
:rollface:
Pilot Fish
New member
Meth blue is added to the newly arrriving fishes water to oxygenate it. It is done at the store because the fish have just taken a long trip in poor water quality and the meeth blue reacts to the water and adds oxygen.
YOU SHOULD'T DO THIS AT HOME!
There is no need to expose your fish to meth blue unless you need to treat them with it and you have deemed that is safe for that particular fish to be exposed to the meth blue.
Most fish stores aren't even that careful in using it in the acclimation process.
YOU SHOULD'T DO THIS AT HOME!
There is no need to expose your fish to meth blue unless you need to treat them with it and you have deemed that is safe for that particular fish to be exposed to the meth blue.
Most fish stores aren't even that careful in using it in the acclimation process.
Puffer Queen
New member
Just a reminder to only use methylene blue in a bath/QT as it does have an effect on nitrifying bacteria.
I have used MB as well and have found it useful/helpful in many of my marine friends - i.e. puffers, seahorses.
Kelly
I have used MB as well and have found it useful/helpful in many of my marine friends - i.e. puffers, seahorses.
Kelly
First of all, Lee thanks a lot for your explanation. I'm having a little trouble understanding: "... I pour fish and bag water into a double plastic container, with plastic screen lid. The inner container is a plastic colander. I pick up the colander and put the dripping colander and fish into the dip. At ... I remove the colander and fish from the dip and dip the fish in normal QT water to rinse in another plastic container. I then lift the dripping colander and gently sink it in the QT and the fish calmly swims out of the colander. " - The colander is great idea - uncreative guys like me never think of such an idea - now why two colanders? let me see if i understand - the first colander is used for the dip in the fresh water? and the second ?
I just lost three fishes recently and I think it's because one of them had Amyloodinum. I added all three to a QT and one of them(a butterfly) refused to eat. I have heard that butterflies are sometimes very picky in getting acclimated, so I thought it was having trouble getting adjusted. However, I think it probably had Amyloodnium because one day its gill rate was very high - and then it was too late. The next day the other two fish had spots on them. I promptly set up a tank and started medicating with Pointex ( a copper based medication). However, the directions apparently say I should medicate on 1st, 3rd, 5th,7th day to get, I guess to supposed concentration - I think this was too slow and eventually the last fish succumbed to rapid breathing and death. In hindsight, I think the freshwater dip would have helped alleviate the problem. However, I think the fish would still be infected with the parasite? Wouldn't you also need to proceed with copper or hypo salinity during quarantine? And if so, I guess you probably don't have any live rock or biological filtration and rely on water changes? Thx.
Steven Pro
New member
"In hindsight, I think the freshwater dip would have helped alleviate the problem." - I would agree. Freshwater dips can be very helpful with Amyloodinium.
"However, I think the fish would still be infected with the parasite?" - Yeah probably. Freshwater dips help remove some, but not all of the parasites.
"Wouldn't you also need to proceed with copper or hypo salinity during quarantine?" - Copper would be needed. Hyposalinity does not work against Amyloodinium.
"And if so, I guess you probably don't have any live rock or biological filtration and rely on water changes?" - Liverock no. Biological filtration yes. I prefer aged sponge filters, but most any filter with biological filtration media will work.
"However, I think the fish would still be infected with the parasite?" - Yeah probably. Freshwater dips help remove some, but not all of the parasites.
"Wouldn't you also need to proceed with copper or hypo salinity during quarantine?" - Copper would be needed. Hyposalinity does not work against Amyloodinium.
"And if so, I guess you probably don't have any live rock or biological filtration and rely on water changes?" - Liverock no. Biological filtration yes. I prefer aged sponge filters, but most any filter with biological filtration media will work.
Several other lessons learnt from my painful losses - first, thank goodness, I quarantined; Whenever possible, quarantine items in seperate quarters - it's incredible how contagious ...
whenever in doubt, don't take chances - have a tank medicated with copper in the ready? start out with Lee's approach, but waste no time transitioning items over to hypo environment - and then if something seems amiss, proceed with copper treatment. What do you think?
whenever in doubt, don't take chances - have a tank medicated with copper in the ready? start out with Lee's approach, but waste no time transitioning items over to hypo environment - and then if something seems amiss, proceed with copper treatment. What do you think?
baobao,
Sorry. This medium (posting) looses a lot in translation! Just one colander.
Picture this!? I have an empty plastic bowl.
I put inside that bowl a plastic colander (only one). The colander fits 'snugly' inside that plastic bowl.
Now, once the fish has been acclimated and the bag water quality (nearly) matches my tank water, I pour the bag water (including the fish) into the colander (inside the plastic bowl). Like I'm going to strain spaghetti, only there a solid plastic bowl around the colander.
I then move the fish for dipping and/or putting it into my aquarium, by handling the colander. I don't net the fish, I just raise the colander from its acclimated (bag) water; then sink it into a solid plastic bowl of FW dip water; then raise it out of the FW dip and then into a bowl of aquarium water for rinsing; then raise the colander and sink it in the aquarium.
Is this any clearer? Don't hesitate to ask ? if it isn't't clear.
Steven Pro answered your other points (in your following post) just as I would have.
Quarantine is a part of this hobby. Many people still don't agree with this statement. Do you know how some people acclimate? Float bag; open bag; put fish and bag water into tank. If they live, they're acclimated.
Horrible? They argue that since some fish live, that it is the right way to do it. They aren't convinced there is a better or proper way to acclimate specimens. There are those too who believe that quarantine isn't worth it or is unnecessary. Just ask the successful people what they do. . .
Did you know that professional aquariums (public and private) quarantine their fish before they go into a display tank?
------------
Regarding your last post. No. I am not in favor of treating fish that don't have a disease. Hypo treatment is primarily only for Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans). I have one exception and that is for tangs. I do perform treatment on tangs even if they aren't ill or don't appear to be ill. I don't keep anemonefishes, but if I did, I'd would treat the wild caught ones for sure for Brooklynella disease whether they seemed to have it or not.
I don't believe in treating heathy fish or fish that may be ill with copper. Copper is a poison and not to be used without just cause, IMHO.
What kind of butterflyfish did you have in QT? Butterflyfish, tangs and angels are my specialty.
Good luck!
Sorry. This medium (posting) looses a lot in translation! Just one colander.
Picture this!? I have an empty plastic bowl.
I put inside that bowl a plastic colander (only one). The colander fits 'snugly' inside that plastic bowl.
Now, once the fish has been acclimated and the bag water quality (nearly) matches my tank water, I pour the bag water (including the fish) into the colander (inside the plastic bowl). Like I'm going to strain spaghetti, only there a solid plastic bowl around the colander.
I then move the fish for dipping and/or putting it into my aquarium, by handling the colander. I don't net the fish, I just raise the colander from its acclimated (bag) water; then sink it into a solid plastic bowl of FW dip water; then raise it out of the FW dip and then into a bowl of aquarium water for rinsing; then raise the colander and sink it in the aquarium.
Is this any clearer? Don't hesitate to ask ? if it isn't't clear.
Steven Pro answered your other points (in your following post) just as I would have.
Quarantine is a part of this hobby. Many people still don't agree with this statement. Do you know how some people acclimate? Float bag; open bag; put fish and bag water into tank. If they live, they're acclimated.
Horrible? They argue that since some fish live, that it is the right way to do it. They aren't convinced there is a better or proper way to acclimate specimens. There are those too who believe that quarantine isn't worth it or is unnecessary. Just ask the successful people what they do. . .
Did you know that professional aquariums (public and private) quarantine their fish before they go into a display tank?
------------
Regarding your last post. No. I am not in favor of treating fish that don't have a disease. Hypo treatment is primarily only for Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans). I have one exception and that is for tangs. I do perform treatment on tangs even if they aren't ill or don't appear to be ill. I don't keep anemonefishes, but if I did, I'd would treat the wild caught ones for sure for Brooklynella disease whether they seemed to have it or not.
I don't believe in treating heathy fish or fish that may be ill with copper. Copper is a poison and not to be used without just cause, IMHO.
What kind of butterflyfish did you have in QT? Butterflyfish, tangs and angels are my specialty.
Good luck!
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