MH set-up has arrived and I have ???

[nanoreef16g]

I have never dealt with a ballast like this ever. I got a PFO mini pendant which was switched to a regular three prong plug. I need to get it to work with the ballast set-up I bought and I don't even know where to start.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, can I enclose this in some sort of wooden box? Would I need a fan to keep it cool?

 

[wds21921]

This is probably Ken's field, Jim's (GEBC), or even Nick's so I won't touch that part (wiring).
On the issue of the wooden box I would think that might not be a good idea.
I've felt some of the ballasts running MH and some get "HOT". And that's just the ambient temperature after traveling through the epoxy/tar or whatever else is used to dissipate the heat as evenly as possible.
I'm not the best qualified to answer these questions but at the same time I don't want to see your place toasted either.

 

[nanoreef16g]

Yes, toasting is bad, that's why even though I have a general idea, I'm not even going to go for it without guidance.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7732033#post7732033 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by wds21921

I'm not the best qualified to answer these questions but at the same time I don't want to see your place toasted either.

 

[wds21921]

Ken's my source for ballast questions. Mostly they've been PC, VHO, or fluorescent in nature but he'd be the first one I'd pose it to.

 

[kaptken]

You got it right the first time WDS.

i have only messed with flourescent ballasts. I've never done a halide, and especially a core and coil kit. but here's a good lead. the ADVANCE transformer company website. you can find a wiring diagram here. just put in the ballast catalogue number, thats the 71A5880 , and the 120 volts you want to set it up for , and get some info. I can't read all the numbers .

http://www.advancetransformer.com/ecatalog/hid_lookup.asp

that's as far as i can go. find an electrician if you can. and i would contact ADVANCE , by phone or email. to be sure. and yup, these do get pretty hot. and dont like water.

thats a start. there should be some info in the RC DIY or LIGHTING FORUMs too on wireing , I'll bet.

 

[nanoreef16g]

Okay I found the wiring schematic and it's actually much easier than I thought. My question now is, how can I enclose this with the heat? Can I make a box That is open on two sides to let heat out but to protect the rug from heat and at the top of the ballast from any water. Would I be better off mounting everything to a board and standing it up behind the tank? I could put a splash shield over the ballast if I mount it to the board.

 

[MadTownMax]

Check around at electronics stores - even home depot - I found some electrical boxes that would have worked when I was trying this route - but decided against it as I switched to another DIY project.

Cost is the only deciding factor - the cooler you can run it; the longer it will last - the best being an aluminum enclosure from PFO - you might be able to buy one from them - probably worth checking into if you want to spend the cash - holding the unit togather can be accomplished with a metal "band" that's how it was done in my PFO ballast - this metal band held the capacitor to the coil so it didn't rattle around. Then the larger parts have the attachment points for using some metal screws to attach to the box.

Maybe GEBC has a line on where to get a cheap or free metal enclosure - he's around those types of electronics more than I...

 

[MinibowMatt]

Ok.. its not the norm, but I mounted the same Advance ballast to a piece of asbestos siding (the kind found on older homes) and then used a dremel and cut some grooves (for air vents) in a couple other pieces, and built a box out of the stuff using the foil tape used for HVAC. I know.. asbestos dust yadda yadda yadda... but it is a fire proof box, and worked great. (i sold that ballast and box) I now have a 175W ballast screwed to a piece of 3/4" oak, and it has been running for 10 weeks with no problems. It does get warm on top, but the wood has yet to char or show signs of toasting.. as for mounting the cap and ignitor, I taped them down horizontally to my mounting board with the foil tape mentioned above.. FWIW

 

[duckdawg299]

I have the same type coil ballast for a 175w. The ballast gets hot and can burn you if you touch it. I mounted it in a metal index card box, drilled holes in the top lid, cut a hole in the side, and installed a 3" fan inside the box. It kept the ballast nice and cool.

 

[nanoreef16g]

Okay I came across this in the Lowe's. I'm going to put the fans on each end. One intake, one exhaust. Can the ignitor, ballast and capacitor all go in the box together?

 

[MadTownMax]

yes - and check the wiring diagram for the maximum amount of wire you can have between the bulb and the capacitor - sometimes it can be quite short - also be sure to use large enough wire and high-temperature wire nuts

 

[nanoreef16g]

Okay on the lamp ignitor it says "2 ft. max lamp to ballast". How am I supposed to pull that off with a hanging pendant? I think I may be selling this and getting a different ballast. Unless they mean 2 ft. max from the ignitor to the ballast not the actual bulb?

 

[duckdawg299]

I put the capacitor and ballast in the metal box. I'm not sure about the ignitor. The 175w doesn't use it. I used only 1 fan in my box blowing in and it kept things nice and cool. The way I read the diagram was that the ignitor can't have more than 2 feet of wire from the lamp. What does the pendant look like?

 

[duckdawg299]

Scratch the last statement about the ignitor. I read it wrong.

 

[MinibowMatt]

I think the ignitor does need to be kinda close, but 2 feet seems waay close..

 

[nanoreef16g]

I think this set-up I've got isn't made for a pendant. The ignitor says it has to be mounted in the fixture with the bulb. No way to do that. Should I sell it and get a "plug and play" ballast or is there a way to make it work?

 

[kaptken]

well all the magnetic ballasts you buy in a ballast box have everything inside. and dont forget to ground the metal box too.
should i ever go MH, my ballast choice might be a nice light , cool running electronic ARO ballast from hellolights.

http://www.hellolights.com/aroelba.html

the electronic ones do a little better job of maintaining constant light output, and softer starts to make the bulb last longer. and easier wiring too.

 

[nanoreef16g]

Hmmmm...I may have to cut my losses and go a different route.

 

[MadTownMax]

the 2' sounds right - it's all dependent on the ballast, and many of those "industrial" ballasts are intended to be used in an "all-in-one" enclosure like a street lamp - sot 2' isn't too hard to do in that case -

with that restriction, your only option would be to mount the ballast box to the back of your canopy

when searching for electronic 70W MH ballasts I found the same thing - the only difference between the new "better" models and the older models was the lenght of wire you could have between the ballast and the lamp

 

[nanoreef16g]

That's what I figured so since I have a pendant and no canopy, the next thread will be a sale thread. Thanks so much everyone for the help. Plug and play here I come!!