How many fish and what type of fish were they?
Miniatus Grouper and Clown Triggerfish?
- Thread starter bix
- Start date
How many fish and what type of fish were they?
I have a blacktip grouper in my 210 that has been a model citizen for several years (I think I've had it about 3 years). It is 8-10". Based on my limited experience with this one fish, I'd recommend it highly. It's adult size is similar to the miniatus. The fish hides, but is also out a fair amount. It doesn't bother the other fish:
emperor angel 8-9"
blue face angel 7-8"
blue spotted angel 5-6"
blue spotted rabbitfish 7-8"
zebra moray 3+ ft
Brazilian dragon moray 2+ feet
Couldn't access my photobucket account for some reason, here are some random web images of blacktip groupers:
I love my grouper, it is a great fish. It's not as brightly colored as a miniatus, but I love the eyes and personality.
emperor angel 8-9"
blue face angel 7-8"
blue spotted angel 5-6"
blue spotted rabbitfish 7-8"
zebra moray 3+ ft
Brazilian dragon moray 2+ feet
Couldn't access my photobucket account for some reason, here are some random web images of blacktip groupers:
I love my grouper, it is a great fish. It's not as brightly colored as a miniatus, but I love the eyes and personality.
AngelAddict
New member
I wouldn't recommend any dwarf angels with a miniatus. I am really thinking about getting a miniatus but I want an Aussie tusk and worried the grouper will beat up the tusk.
anbosu
New member
Initially I added it with my zebra & snowflake eels who hid all the time, my six line soapfish (RIP), and a mimic tang. The tang had to be removed almost immediately because the grouper wouldn't let it out of the top corner of the tank.
It was fine with the soapfish at the beginning (the soapfish was actually a bit bigger in girth) but after a while it decided it wasn't allowed in the tank either. I removed the soapfish when I noticed it was getting beaten up, but it was too late. I then traded in the miniatus for some frags at a local shop.
my grouper is not territorial, it will dart out for food, sometimes hangs out. never threatens anything. the angels are much grumpier. these pictures do not do it justice, actual color is closer to the previous pics I posted taken off the web.
NOTE: this tank is a 210, you couldn't put this many big fish in a 135. and I will have to upgrade in a few years, myself, or do some shuffling among other large tanks.
old pictures, and tank not looking its best... sorry I am not any kind of photographer:
and just for fun, here's the Brazilian dragon moray
NOTE: this tank is a 210, you couldn't put this many big fish in a 135. and I will have to upgrade in a few years, myself, or do some shuffling among other large tanks.
old pictures, and tank not looking its best... sorry I am not any kind of photographer:
and just for fun, here's the Brazilian dragon moray
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I really appreciate all of the input, this site is awesome!
So here is what I'm going to do (in order)
Puffer first
Maniatus next
Agressive Wrasse (changed from Angelfish) was looking at Lyretail/Banana/Red Coris/Harlequin... anybody have any experience with these and which one would fit better in this tank?
Picasso Trigger
Does this look like a good order to put them in the tank? How far apart would you introduce them into the tank?
So here is what I'm going to do (in order)
Puffer first
Maniatus next
Agressive Wrasse (changed from Angelfish) was looking at Lyretail/Banana/Red Coris/Harlequin... anybody have any experience with these and which one would fit better in this tank?
Picasso Trigger
Does this look like a good order to put them in the tank? How far apart would you introduce them into the tank?
AngelAddict
New member
Don't mix a Harlequin tusk with a miniatus grouper! The tusk wont stand a chance!
some of those wrasses need sand to sleep/dive in - best check requirements. I haven't kept miniatus, so I can't speak to the aggression. Most HTs are over 5", so maybe start with a smallish miniatus, 3-4"?
I think your order is probably ok. Always a good idea to either have a "time out" tank or egg crate to divide your tank, in case you have aggression against a new addition. I have added passive fish after aggressive fish, but a "time out" for the aggressor and some reaquascaping to confuse territory helped a lot.
I would definitely set up a QT and quarantine any new fish for 4-6 weeks before adding to the display tank. This allows you to monitor for any disease, treat if necessary, make sure the fish is eating and healthy before putting in DT. This way the fish will be able to stand up for itself better, and you reduce the risk of infecting other fish.
You can set up a "cheap" QT by buying a large Sterilite or Rubbermaid container. Add plenty of cover. I like to add live rock and a seeded filter to keep water quality high. I only remove these if I have to treat with meds that kill the biofilter. I only treat if the fish seems sick (though I usually treat with prazi for fluke prophylactically for flukes - low risk, low stress med, compared to others).
I think your order is probably ok. Always a good idea to either have a "time out" tank or egg crate to divide your tank, in case you have aggression against a new addition. I have added passive fish after aggressive fish, but a "time out" for the aggressor and some reaquascaping to confuse territory helped a lot.
I would definitely set up a QT and quarantine any new fish for 4-6 weeks before adding to the display tank. This allows you to monitor for any disease, treat if necessary, make sure the fish is eating and healthy before putting in DT. This way the fish will be able to stand up for itself better, and you reduce the risk of infecting other fish.
You can set up a "cheap" QT by buying a large Sterilite or Rubbermaid container. Add plenty of cover. I like to add live rock and a seeded filter to keep water quality high. I only remove these if I have to treat with meds that kill the biofilter. I only treat if the fish seems sick (though I usually treat with prazi for fluke prophylactically for flukes - low risk, low stress med, compared to others).
+1 - definitely put tusk in before miniatus, if you get HT. They are wrasses, but despite their looks, they are on the timid side. Here is a good article:
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/choerodon/faciata.htm
This site is good for fish research in general.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/fishes/wrasses/choerodon/faciata.htm
This site is good for fish research in general.
AngelAddict
New member
I think that'd be your best bet, puffer, trigger, grouper, maybe you can add an eel like you wanted,a snowflake.
AngelAddict
New member
Sounds perfect.
a niger trigger from what i read is more of a docile trigger like a pink tail. More people, not just lfs people, have been telling me that a clown trigger could work. i mean if you read up on it, it says that it isnt likely to get past 12" or possibly even 10". Its just the risk of it snaping and going after tankmates.
depending on what my friends at the lfs say will decide if i go with the clown or the humu. Many people have told me it could work and some have said it will not. I just think it would be good if you have just two fish because if one gets angry its a good chance the other is dead. Just what i think
