Aqua Keepers
New member
I need to buy a miter saw to continue with my tank build (stand, hood, etc) and to do some flooring projects in the home. Is there any shopping tips I need to know, or things I showld look for in a saw?
miter saw buying tips?
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jeffbrig
Premium Member
A sliding saw greatly increases the size of the material you can cut, making the saw more useful for general purpose chopping. I bought the big 12" Dewalt slider several years ago, and have never regretted that purchase. I've used it to cut wood flooring, baseboards, crown moldings, etc. around the house, built my tank stand & canopy, cut PVC for my plumbing, and a did ton of other miscellaneous projects.
Here's an old gallery pic of the saw sitting on top of my about-to-be-built tank stand.
Here's an old gallery pic of the saw sitting on top of my about-to-be-built tank stand.
storagedaddie
Premium Member
I would also recommend a compound mitre saw. You might not need the diversity of cutting compound angles for tank building, but they sure are nice when you come up against them. I like the Dewalt as well...
Another good feature to look for is a dual bevel model. It means that the saw will tilt right and left for non straight cuts. It makes it easier to just move the saw head than the wood all the time. Not necessary by any means but nice feature to have
I also bought a 12" Dewalt "Dual" compound mitre saw with length stops, extensions and the like and its been the greatest purchase I made. I also got a newer blade with much more teeth for a extra smooth cut on trim work.
I also bought a 12" Dewalt "Dual" compound mitre saw with length stops, extensions and the like and its been the greatest purchase I made. I also got a newer blade with much more teeth for a extra smooth cut on trim work.
RandyStacyE
New member
It's usually hard to go wrong with a Dewalt, but I didn't want to spend that much extra dough. I ended up geting the 12" Hitachi at Lowes when it went on sale.
12" Dual Bevel Compound Miter Saw w/ Laser
For cutting plastics and other materials like that, it would be best to eventually get a better blade.
The 10" saw is more cost effective, but the 12" cuts bigger stuff. The sliding mechanism will cost you ... I'm not a builder so I didn't feel that I 'need' it. I have noticed that the sliding mechanism would be super handy though.
I thought the laser would be very very handy, but mine needed some adjustment to be extremely accurate. I think the laser is mainly for quick acquisition for fast framing (not extremely accurate unless you adjust it).
12" Dual Bevel Compound Miter Saw w/ Laser
For cutting plastics and other materials like that, it would be best to eventually get a better blade.
The 10" saw is more cost effective, but the 12" cuts bigger stuff. The sliding mechanism will cost you ... I'm not a builder so I didn't feel that I 'need' it. I have noticed that the sliding mechanism would be super handy though.
I thought the laser would be very very handy, but mine needed some adjustment to be extremely accurate. I think the laser is mainly for quick acquisition for fast framing (not extremely accurate unless you adjust it).
Pbrown3701
New member
I have the 10" Dewalt non-sliding which I like. Very handy. As randy stated above though, there has been more than one occation where I was like "damn I wish I had that sliding one." If you can afford to go with sliding, it's well worth it IMO. Now I've got to try to convince my wife that i need ANOTHER mitre saw...
RandyStacyE
New member
AHHH good luck with that Pbrown3701 
I've been trying to convince my wife that I need a new Dewalt cordless drill with a bigger chuck.
How annoying is it when you can't even use 1/2 of your drill bits with your own drill.
I tried changing the chuck itself, but I snapped off the tip of the tool inside the chuck ... now I have no way of removing the chuck. Well unless I can somehow remove the snapped of part of the tool.
I've been trying to convince my wife that I need a new Dewalt cordless drill with a bigger chuck.
How annoying is it when you can't even use 1/2 of your drill bits with your own drill.
I tried changing the chuck itself, but I snapped off the tip of the tool inside the chuck ... now I have no way of removing the chuck. Well unless I can somehow remove the snapped of part of the tool.
douggiestyle
New member
pito
the best advice i give is to spend what you can afford. too many people will talk themselves out of it because they think they need to spend big bucks from the start. also ive seen so many spend the money and then after one project it goes off to some corner to collect dust. the other thing is "like new" tools sell well. ive bought a tool for a job, then turned around and sold the tool for 90%+ of what i paid.
dont forget the blades. what ever you pay for the saw. expect to add about $50 for a good blade.
sharp things (blades, bits, etc.) are always worth the extra dollar.
power tools dont make the craftsman. they only save on man hours.
the best advice i give is to spend what you can afford. too many people will talk themselves out of it because they think they need to spend big bucks from the start. also ive seen so many spend the money and then after one project it goes off to some corner to collect dust. the other thing is "like new" tools sell well. ive bought a tool for a job, then turned around and sold the tool for 90%+ of what i paid.
dont forget the blades. what ever you pay for the saw. expect to add about $50 for a good blade.
sharp things (blades, bits, etc.) are always worth the extra dollar.
power tools dont make the craftsman. they only save on man hours.
Randall_James
Premium Member
I found my Dewalt at the local pawn shop for 1/2 of new. Does not have the slide but is a compound/miter 12". I also purchased a 100 tooth blade for doing acrylic work. The saw is virtually brand new
DEWALT DW706 12" Double Bevel Compound Miter Saw
DEWALT DW706 12" Double Bevel Compound Miter Saw
madscientist
New member
I purchased a Makita 10" dual compound slider with a laser guide, the 10" has less deflection in the blade when cutting hard materials and with the slider it has more capacity than a 12". It is fantastic to work with. Also if you need to make it more portable check out the Rigid brand MSUV at home depot. I got mine on sale and it makes moving that thing around way easier. It is basically a table that folds down and you push it around like a two wheel dolly. It also extends out 8' on each end with rollers for supporting long stock.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Yes a 10" slider can be more portable and accomodating than a 12" or 14" fixed power miter. Blade cost is also a consideration. The 12" blades are spendy, the 14" blades are insane.
The better brands of saws will have less decflection (most fixed saws are just fine). If you get a slider, then get the Hitachi or DeWalt. The newer models are much more accurate.
If you are getting a fixed saw, then consider the 12" or 14" models. As mentioned dual bevel is nice, but not needed unless you are doing crown or other complex compound miters. It is not just a matter of flipping the board over. The dual bevel esnures that the blade does not cause tearout on reverse cuts.
$50 is cheap for blades... most good power miter blades run right around the $100 to $130. With few exceptions, you really do get what you pay for when you buy a blade.
If you just need something to cut wood with and do not do much intricate or precision work, then check out some of the harbor freight power miters (central machinery or chicago electric) they server their purpose and are not that bad at all. They are certainly not DeWalts, Makitas, Bosch or Hitachis... but they do just fine for the weekend warrior.
Bean
The better brands of saws will have less decflection (most fixed saws are just fine). If you get a slider, then get the Hitachi or DeWalt. The newer models are much more accurate.
If you are getting a fixed saw, then consider the 12" or 14" models. As mentioned dual bevel is nice, but not needed unless you are doing crown or other complex compound miters. It is not just a matter of flipping the board over. The dual bevel esnures that the blade does not cause tearout on reverse cuts.
$50 is cheap for blades... most good power miter blades run right around the $100 to $130. With few exceptions, you really do get what you pay for when you buy a blade.
If you just need something to cut wood with and do not do much intricate or precision work, then check out some of the harbor freight power miters (central machinery or chicago electric) they server their purpose and are not that bad at all. They are certainly not DeWalts, Makitas, Bosch or Hitachis... but they do just fine for the weekend warrior.
Bean
Randall_James
Premium Member
So I do not feel bad spending $100 for my acrylic blade
Aqua Keepers
New member
Thanks all. There are some great tips here. I did'nt know a thing about these saws before this thread. However, this has givin me some ideas on what to look for.
douggiestyle
New member
bean your going to scare the guy.
make sure you price the blades when buying a saw. as mentioned a 12" can be more expensive. if you are in say 10" product, the blade that comes with it will be around 20t cabide. i would recomend a 80t blade for normal cabintry work and trim work around the house. save the 20t blade for cutting studs and such.
a nice thin kerf 80t carbide blade will cost about $50.
make sure you price the blades when buying a saw. as mentioned a 12" can be more expensive. if you are in say 10" product, the blade that comes with it will be around 20t cabide. i would recomend a 80t blade for normal cabintry work and trim work around the house. save the 20t blade for cutting studs and such.
a nice thin kerf 80t carbide blade will cost about $50.
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Bah, I wouldnt whack my neighbors fingers off with a $50 blade
BTW we are 99% done with my brothers Brazilian cherry floor. (2) carbide finish blades need resharpened and we have made VERY FEW cuts (maybe 80).
Bean
BTW we are 99% done with my brothers Brazilian cherry floor. (2) carbide finish blades need resharpened and we have made VERY FEW cuts (maybe 80).
Bean
douggiestyle
New member
sweet.
ripping that stuff will really kill a blade.
you must have some anger issues with your neighbor? would you like to talk about them?
my dream
http://bosch.cpotools.com/saws/miter_saws/4410l.html
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hllywd
Premier World Traveler
The 12" slider is a beast if you need to move it all the time. Great saw though.
If you can get by with the 8" slider it's about $300 less and will still cross cut a 2 x 12.... Like has been said before the blade costs get you as you go bigger.
Right now I just have the plain old DeWalt 12" miter saw with an 80 tooth Freud Diablo blade. It's easier to take where I may need it.
Tim
If you can get by with the 8" slider it's about $300 less and will still cross cut a 2 x 12.... Like has been said before the blade costs get you as you go bigger.
Right now I just have the plain old DeWalt 12" miter saw with an 80 tooth Freud Diablo blade. It's easier to take where I may need it.
Tim
