Monti losing color

Djbeasley05

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Just my branching monti is losing color. The plating monti right next to it is perfectly fine. I had an alk spike a week ago from 7 to 11.5 but after a couple water changes got it back down. Nitrates stay about 30 and calcium 440. Could the all spike have caused this?


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Yes he spike is extreme. My concern would be that 30 nitrate is a very high number for any sps to survive. Montis are notoriously hardy but my thought is that 30 is way too high. 0 can be bad as well but some of the most beautiful sps tanks run between 3-5.

Alk at 7 is really low as well
 
Yes he spike is extreme. My concern would be that 30 nitrate is a very high number for any sps to survive. Montis are notoriously hardy but my thought is that 30 is way too high. 0 can be bad as well but some of the most beautiful sps tanks run between 3-5.

Alk at 7 is really low as well



The tank has been running for over 6 months at 30 nitrates. The plate monti's have been in there over two months with no problems. No issues until the branch was added a month ago. I've read of plenty of tanks running high nitrates with no side effects.


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Time perhaps? Have you adding anything new recently? (close)



I wouldn't worry too much about it. That "coral" in general is pretty strong. (shards)



https://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/1/aafeature2



The monti is the most recently added. I'll do a couple water changes this week to get the nitrates down. Even 30% weekly water changes keeps this tank around 30ppm. I only have two clowns and a cleanup crew. Any ideas why nitrates stay so high?


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The color on your monti cap looks good but that's probably the easiest SPS to keep alive and grow. I'd say the alk spike played a role but the high nitrates aren't great either. You're feeding too much or not changing out filters if they're staying at 30PPM. Is that a 10g tank? If so, two clowns and a cleaner shrimp is somewhat high bioload IMO. I'm not sure what your options are in the rear chambers for filtration, but I'd look into something that will remove nitrates. Small skimmers aren't very effective IMO. Purigen, chemipure, regular water changes and reduced feedings are your best bet. Plus, chemipure elite has GAC which will help absorb any toxins released by your softies that could harm SPS. What kind of lighting are you running? I see some of your zoas seem to be reaching for light so I'm wondering if your light is intense enough.

Regardless, I'd keep an eye on the branching monti and if the tissue loss keeps increasing, you might try to frag it and cut of the dead parts.
 
The color on your monti cap looks good but that's probably the easiest SPS to keep alive and grow. I'd say the alk spike played a role but the high nitrates aren't great either. You're feeding too much or not changing out filters if they're staying at 30PPM. Is that a 10g tank? If so, two clowns and a cleaner shrimp is somewhat high bioload IMO. I'm not sure what your options are in the rear chambers for filtration, but I'd look into something that will remove nitrates. Small skimmers aren't very effective IMO. Purigen, chemipure, regular water changes and reduced feedings are your best bet. Plus, chemipure elite has GAC which will help absorb any toxins released by your softies that could harm SPS. What kind of lighting are you running? I see some of your zoas seem to be reaching for light so I'm wondering if your light is intense enough.

Regardless, I'd keep an eye on the branching monti and if the tissue loss keeps increasing, you might try to frag it and cut of the dead parts.



29 gal bio cube
No filters in the back.
Hob Remora c pro skimmer (rated well over 30 gallons)
2 kessil a80s which should be plenty as sps is 5inches below water line.
2 jebao wave makers with plenty of indirect flow to keep detrius moving to the back to be sucked out during wc.

I feel like I'm not missing anything...


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Look into carbon dosing with vinegar or vodka. If your skimmers up to the task, that will lower your nitrates. Your lighting seems fine but could be too intense too. SPS can be finicky under LEDs. It seems like your set up is fine though. I would attribute it to the alk spike but you should really try to get the nitrates down. What are you phosphates levels?

IMO, your alk level is fine but not with a high nitrate level. Natural sea water is around 7dKH. It's where I keep my tank but my nitrates at stay between 1-5PPM. My phosphates are higher than I'd like at around .1PPM but I used old dry rock that I thought I had cleaned in acid but don't think I did so I think they might be leaching still. Either way, things seems to be doing fine. Good growth on LPS and the few SPS i've added so far have good coloration and polyp extension.
 
Look into carbon dosing with vinegar or vodka. If your skimmers up to the task, that will lower your nitrates. Your lighting seems fine but could be too intense too. SPS can be finicky under LEDs. It seems like your set up is fine though. I would attribute it to the alk spike but you should really try to get the nitrates down. What are you phosphates levels?

IMO, your alk level is fine but not with a high nitrate level. Natural sea water is around 7dKH. It's where I keep my tank but my nitrates at stay between 1-5PPM. My phosphates are higher than I'd like at around .1PPM but I used old dry rock that I thought I had cleaned in acid but don't think I did so I think they might be leaching still. Either way, things seems to be doing fine. Good growth on LPS and the few SPS i've added so far have good coloration and polyp extension.



I'll start vodka dosing this week!


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I'll start vodka dosing this week!


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Just take it slow and so your research. With nitrates already high, it can cause a bacteria bloom and suck the oxygen out of your tank so be careful. Also, check out your phosphate levels. Many people still have phosphate problems even when they get their nitrates down so you might need to run some GFO or other phosphate absorbing media. Again though, take it slow because you don't want to aggressively remove all your phosphate. Ideally, you want both to gradually come down to reasonable levels, then maintain those levels.
 
Just take it slow and so your research. With nitrates already high, it can cause a bacteria bloom and suck the oxygen out of your tank so be careful. Also, check out your phosphate levels. Many people still have phosphate problems even when they get their nitrates down so you might need to run some GFO or other phosphate absorbing media. Again though, take it slow because you don't want to aggressively remove all your phosphate. Ideally, you want both to gradually come down to reasonable levels, then maintain those levels.



http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php

This is the article I read on vodka dosing. Seems like a very gradual process.


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