Most accurate, affordable test kits?

Teleostei

New member
Hi all,
I recently bought an established reef system, but the past owner was only using API dip strips to test the water. knowing how inaccurate these can be, im looking to get a new kit so i can really see where my water parameters lie and get a feel for the chemistry of my tank. i know salifert kits are highly reccomended, but at $30 a piece, they're a bit out of my price range, especially since i need all the essential tests (at least ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, calcium, alkalinity, phosphate). is there an alternative brand that will save me a little money but also give decently accurate results?

thanks!
 
Save up some money and purchase the Red Sea multi kits.. They have one that tests CA/ALK/MG in one test kit for around $50 and they have a NO3 (nitrate) and PO4(phosphate) combo kit for around $45ish..

Unless you are having die off issues a month or so without testing isn't going to hurt. Buying cheap test kits just to have to spend money later on better more accurate ones is only a waste of time and money.
 
They're not cheap, but I highly recommend Hanna checkers. I have RedSea kits, which are decent (WAY better than dip strips!) but the checkers are easier to use and FAR more accurate. Titration kits give you an approximation, whereas a colorimiter will give you exact numbers, no need for you to guess by looking at colours on a chart or count drops to see when a solution starts to change colour.

Unfortunately, I think the higher the accuracy and ease of use, the higher the price gets.
 
if you have an established system, with corals/ fish etc already in there

I would bite the bullet and look at Salifert for Nitrate, Magnesium, Calcium and Alkalinity

you could probably get away with cheaper for Ammonia and Nitrite, as in an established set up, many people only test those if they "feel" they may be an issue ( corals and or fish not doing so well) as these tests will only be conducted rarelyu in an established set up, something cheap and or, using the LFS to check these parameters when you think you may have an issue, is an option

Phosphate - I have the salifert kit, but again rarely use it, preffering to assume I have some anyway and run GFO 24/7/365
the kits I have had always expire before being used up on Phosphate due to limited need to test

but Ca, Alk, in my set up are tested weekly, so a Salifert test kit lasts me 12 months ish 50 tests

Mag my experience in my set up, is that it is utilised slowly, thus testing every other week or sometimes monthly has been OK for me, so I get a test kit and it will last me a couple of years plus

worth the extra investment on the important parameters that you may want to monitor regularly

Steve
 
They're not cheap, but I highly recommend Hanna checkers. I have RedSea kits, which are decent (WAY better than dip strips!) but the checkers are easier to use and FAR more accurate. Titration kits give you an approximation, whereas a colorimiter will give you exact numbers, no need for you to guess by looking at colours on a chart or count drops to see when a solution starts to change colour.

Unfortunately, I think the higher the accuracy and ease of use, the higher the price gets.

Technically titration is superior to colorimetry. But in the hands of the inexperienced the colorimeter is easier to use and harder to mess up. What I mean is that it is relative. For someone like me a titration is going to give better results. For someone who might not be doing it right the colorimeter might work better.

But all things being equal and doing it exactly right every time a titration is almost always going to give more accurate results than a colorimetric method.
 
Point taken :) I just get nervous putting x drops of something into x ml of water, shaking it, then reading the result against a plastic card; how do I know the amount of water is exactly right? Am I interpreting the colour correctly? What if it's in between two colours -- is it 0.25, 0.5ppm, halfway in between? The tests where I drip until I notice colour change make me crazy -- did that just turn a tiny bit blue and then back again or was it my imagination? How blue is blue enough?

I guess I'm just not confident in my 'skill', ability to read colours, or fill vials perfectly. I only have coloromiters for PO4, Ca and alk, but they make me feel somehow safer about playing with water chemistry that's supporting hundreds to thousands of dollars in sea life :S I wish I could get one for Mg, but my dry goods guy tells me they don't make one for hobbyists.
 
I have API collecting dust in the closet after buying the Red Sea test kits. Very easy and reliable to use without the cost of Hanna. Maybe after buying all the needed equipment, I will purchase the Hanna.

I watched a video on the comparison of Red Sea and Salifert, then opted for the Red Sea since it was easier to use according the the video.
 
Point taken :) I just get nervous putting x drops of something into x ml of water, shaking it, then reading the result against a plastic card; how do I know the amount of water is exactly right? Am I interpreting the colour correctly? What if it's in between two colours -- is it 0.25, 0.5ppm, halfway in between? The tests where I drip until I notice colour change make me crazy -- did that just turn a tiny bit blue and then back again or was it my imagination? How blue is blue enough?

I guess I'm just not confident in my 'skill', ability to read colours, or fill vials perfectly. I only have coloromiters for PO4, Ca and alk, but they make me feel somehow safer about playing with water chemistry that's supporting hundreds to thousands of dollars in sea life :S I wish I could get one for Mg, but my dry goods guy tells me they don't make one for hobbyists.


So here are a few tips that can help.

With the color reading types of tests, like nitrate and phosphate tests for example, you are adding reagents in excess and reading a color based on a concentration. In these tests what matters is the actual concentration of the analyte in the water. In those cases exact measurement of the water sample isn't critical. You are always adding more reagent than really needed to make sure that no matter what all of the analyte reacts to give you the colored product. So if you go over or under a little on the volume of the water sample it really isn't going to throw you off.

Now reading the colors in between is a different matter. But think of it this way, if I told you that you had somewhere between 10 and 20pm nitrate or if I told you that you had exactly 15.44673456ppm nitrate... what would you do any differently about it? Sometimes the question is moot because you don't really need any increased level of precision.

I certainly understand the advantage of the colorimeter on the phosphate tests because we are reading such low concentrations, but remember that even there you aren't getting a hard number, you are getting a range. I can't remember off the top of my head the error range on the Hanna phosphate checker, but there will always be a plus or minus after that number.


Now for the titration tests I have a big thread in the chem forum on those. Here is exactly the opposite. With a titration you aren't measuring concentration you are actually counting molecules. If you know how many molecules and how big the sample was then you can know the concentration. So with those tests it is absolutely critical that you get the sample size exactly right. That's why those test often come with a syringe to measure the sample instead of a vial with a line on it. Whatever percentage you are off on your sample size you will be off by that percentage on your final result.

But what about that color change. Technically it depends on the type of test, but a good rule of thumb is to consider the endpoint the first color change that persists on mixing. So the how blue is blue enough question is answered by saying any different than it started out. There are a thousand things that can have an effect on the exact hue of that final color, but most of us can tell the difference between pink and blue. Someone with red-blue color blindness might find this impossible, but for the rest of us there shouldn't be any question.

But it is the first color change that persists on mixing. So when you add a drop sometimes the spot right where the drop hits will change, but once mixed in it goes right back to the original color. Not the end point. End point is when the whole sample changes and doesn't change immediately back as soon as you give it a little shake.

What about purple (in our pink to blue example). Well purple is what happens when you add some blue to pink right? That is some blue color, so we are right on the endpoint. The thing to do in that case is write the number down and add one more drop. The one more drop should put you obviously over. If it does then you were done. If it doesn't then something is probably going wrong. It actually depends on the type of test as to whether you should technically keep the number before or after the last drop, but in reality we're back to the who cares about that level of precision. If I tell you that you have between 8.6 and 8.7 dkH or if I tell you that you have exactly 8.61287534 dkH what are you really going to do any differently?

That's why I don't like the cheaper alk kits like API where you are counting drops instead of measuring volume off one of those graduated syringes. If each drop is 0.5dkH then yeah one more drop makes a big enough difference that I might do something differently. 8dkH vs 8.5 dkH might be enough of a difference to change my plans.

To me it depends on what you are after. For phosphate I am a huge fan of the Hanna because you get added precision over reading colors with your eyes. For alk though I am not a fan of the Hanna alk checker because there are so many things that affect the chemistry of the indicator they are using and throw off your results.

The number one thing you can do with any type of test is use a standard. If you have something with a known level of the analyte, then you can use the test and make sure you get the right answer. If you do then you're golden. If not then you know you goofed somewhere.
 
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