I am set to move a 180 predator tank on Thursday. I have the assistance of the current owner and his friend that both work at the LFS. I have a 55 set up with water for a change. How much of the existing water should I try and retain? Will a 55 gallon change be sufficient? Or should I mix up more water? thanks tommy
Move day advice
- Thread starter tb27272
- Start date
DragonMorayEels
In Memoriam
Well Tommy, you first keep not less then 50% of the tanks water you now have and no matter what, you will have a short cycle of about three weeks and in this if you can, try to remove as less the gravel bed you can for if you remove the sand bed, this will make the spike more so.
If any prize fish, ask your LFS if they can hold for you like angelfish or so. And I hope you understood that if the people at your LFS can manage to move the tank with your sand bed untouch/not moved into some rubbermaids, your tank will cycle in not be more then three weeks.
Buddy
If any prize fish, ask your LFS if they can hold for you like angelfish or so. And I hope you understood that if the people at your LFS can manage to move the tank with your sand bed untouch/not moved into some rubbermaids, your tank will cycle in not be more then three weeks.
Buddy
thanks, i was planning on retaining 75% of the water and leaving the sandbed alone ( it is a shallow bed) I also have sand at the house that came out of my 55 when I downgraded it to a 29 to allow placement of the 180. It is mature and is in a 10 gallon with a heater, small pc light and a power head on it.
The tank is coming with the following:
1 lionfish
1 luna wrasse
1 six line wrasse
1 large yellow tang
1 spotted hawk
1 huma huma trigger
1 small snowflake
There might also be a large regal tang
Will these guys make the move okay? What about biospira to offset the cycle?
The tank is coming with the following:
1 lionfish
1 luna wrasse
1 six line wrasse
1 large yellow tang
1 spotted hawk
1 huma huma trigger
1 small snowflake
There might also be a large regal tang
Will these guys make the move okay? What about biospira to offset the cycle?
reef-fossil
New member
Tommy -
Let me know how it goes. I too have a 180 that I'm going to have to move soon and am wondering how I'm going to do it.
I'd like to keep as much of the water as I can find buckets / containers for, but the sand bed is deep, so figure it will need to get removed. I'm planning on putting the rock into the containers to keep it wet and the fish as happy as possible.
I didn't think there'd be much of a spike if it was a) kept wet and b) quick (less than a day total). But maybe this isn't the case.
Keep me posted, any notes or tips (before or after your move) would definitely help me. I've got a similar post so you may want to watch it as well.
Good luck!
-Chris
Let me know how it goes. I too have a 180 that I'm going to have to move soon and am wondering how I'm going to do it.
I'd like to keep as much of the water as I can find buckets / containers for, but the sand bed is deep, so figure it will need to get removed. I'm planning on putting the rock into the containers to keep it wet and the fish as happy as possible.
I didn't think there'd be much of a spike if it was a) kept wet and b) quick (less than a day total). But maybe this isn't the case.
Keep me posted, any notes or tips (before or after your move) would definitely help me. I've got a similar post so you may want to watch it as well.
Good luck!
-Chris
DragonMorayEels
In Memoriam
Do know that you will have a strong ammonia spike later after the tanks moved, it be best you have not all those species mix right back into your tank.
Like if I had to pick from your short list, I go with the:
lionfish
luna wrasse
six line wrasse
For as well Tommy, you not want to be feeding to many tank inhabitants while this cycle be in progress, for you want to add as little food you can.
Like if I had to pick from your short list, I go with the:
lionfish
luna wrasse
six line wrasse
For as well Tommy, you not want to be feeding to many tank inhabitants while this cycle be in progress, for you want to add as little food you can.
Thanks, I have been told that I would not have much of a spike. I have done moves on smaller tanks without any problems, that being said will monitor the parameters closely. The move is being well planned and the distance between my house and the tank's present location is only 4 miles, so we plan on making it an efficient move.
mitzel
New member
it's not so much the water you need to worry about as much as its the sand bed ,live rock and filtration media. if you can manage to keep all that wet while your moving the tank you'll do fine . there will be a slight cycle but not bad . you just want to keep everything wet with water from the tank. it will help keep the good bactiria alive.
thanks, one more thing- all of the fish are healthy except that the yellow tang has black ich, he is eating normally and his activity is normal, but what would you advise? I am sure the stress of moving will make it worse. We could do a freshwater dip, but should I put him in QT for a while? I have a ten gallon that I use for such purposes, but he is big and it will be hard to manage ammonia on a ten gallon tank with a large tang. tommy
DragonMorayEels
In Memoriam
Here is something I gotten from DrAqua>
Black Ich:
Black Ich disease appears as small black spots distributed over the fish's body. The spots are about half the size of a pinhead or smaller. They are primarily found on the body and are are especially easy to see on light-colored body areas or on the transparent areas of the fins. Affected fish will scratch on the bottom or other aquarium objects.
Other signs of the disease include lethargy, development of a pale body color, and lack of appetite. The disease is caused by a small worm known as a tubellarian. After parasitizing a fish, the worms develop on the fish's skin and gills and acquire dark pigmentation. They are freely mobile and will tend to move over the surface of the fish.
After five or six days depending on the environmental conditions, they drop to the bottom of the aquarium. There they mature, with the development of the young worms within their body. Once the development of the young is complete, the adult worms burst, releasing the free swimming young that infest new host fish.
The worms can be controlled with various commercially available medications. Formalin based products or those containing organophosphate compounds such as trichlorfon appear to be the best medications.
In addition to the use of medications, any excessive buildup or organic material and debris should be siphoned from the aquarium several times during treatment.
Since the young worms develop on the aquarium bottom, the removal of debris will aid in controlling the disease by reducing their numbers.
I hope that it helps
Black Ich:
Black Ich disease appears as small black spots distributed over the fish's body. The spots are about half the size of a pinhead or smaller. They are primarily found on the body and are are especially easy to see on light-colored body areas or on the transparent areas of the fins. Affected fish will scratch on the bottom or other aquarium objects.
Other signs of the disease include lethargy, development of a pale body color, and lack of appetite. The disease is caused by a small worm known as a tubellarian. After parasitizing a fish, the worms develop on the fish's skin and gills and acquire dark pigmentation. They are freely mobile and will tend to move over the surface of the fish.
After five or six days depending on the environmental conditions, they drop to the bottom of the aquarium. There they mature, with the development of the young worms within their body. Once the development of the young is complete, the adult worms burst, releasing the free swimming young that infest new host fish.
The worms can be controlled with various commercially available medications. Formalin based products or those containing organophosphate compounds such as trichlorfon appear to be the best medications.
In addition to the use of medications, any excessive buildup or organic material and debris should be siphoned from the aquarium several times during treatment.
Since the young worms develop on the aquarium bottom, the removal of debris will aid in controlling the disease by reducing their numbers.
I hope that it helps
