Moving and upgrading to 180

[pocurran]

Hello all.

A little about myself and experience before I get to my questions. I have had a few tanks in the last 9 years and currently have a 120 glass reef tank. I do not consider myself more than "œan experienced nubie" as I still have many questions. I have a small Yellow Tang, a red firefish, a lyretail anthia, two oscellaris clownfish, Fairy Wrasse, a Chromis, Orchid Dottyback and a Royal Gramma. Corals include a few types of zoanthids, flower polyps, Acans, torch coral, and hammers. I also have about 50 blue legged crabs, a few trochus, turbo, conch, and astrea snails. The tank has been up and running for about a year and a half without too many problems. Fighting some film algae now, but getting it controlled. I started the hobby in MN for about 6 years or so and moved to Jacksonville, FL.
I will be moving about 25 miles away to my new "œforever" house. I will be upgrading my 120 to a 180 during the move. I will have about two weeks where I will be in both houses and need to move everything from tank A to tank B during this time. Reading a lot of forums and other people who have done the same and so on, I think I have a good handle on what is going on. I plan on getting the tank setup, fresh water to fill up about halfway or so. I also plan on using as much of my current water as well, my live rock, new, dry sand and depending on all the suggestions, "œspare" rock I have in the back yard. The sump I have is a 30 long, 3 compartment, DIY type.
I have replaced my skimmer and return pump within the last year as they were having problems and upgraded to a size that should be compatible with the 180. Skimmer is a Reef Octopus 200 and the return pump is a Sicce Syncra Silent Pump. I had two Koralia 3 powerheads, but one died and it was replaced with the Koralia 1500. Will be getting another 1500 in a week or so. I plan on using these on the back wall of the 180 and purchasing two other heads for the sides. I also plan on replacing the T5 bulbs with LEDs. I think the MaxSpect ???? was suggested, but can't remember the specifics right off. I know that three units were needed for the 180. I will be upgrading the sump as well to something a little larger.
Now for some of the questions I have. I'm debating about the sump. Should I purchase one or have another DIY type? I like some of the manufactured ones I have seen on the net and thinking about going that route, but would like some input first. If I go with the DIY route, any suggestions for what is necessary and must have for size of compartments filter socks, etc.
Should I use all rigid PVC for plumbing or could/should there be flex, and if so, where?
I plan on getting a RR tank with corner overflows instead of on the back like I have now. How much harder would it be to plumb things in and around? Any suggestions?
As mentioned before, I have "œspare" rock in the back that was left over from the move to FL as well as pulling some out of the current tank. It has been dried for a few months and soaked in RO/DI water for about a month. I just removed it from the soaking and sprayed all debris from each piece. Since I have about two months before the move, I plan on trying to cure it while I'm waiting. Once the tank is setup fully and the old rock is cured, can I add it to the tank without any problems or should I keep it curing and add a little at a time unit I have what I want in?
I plan on getting a controller to run everything, mainly for the lights and power heads, but maybe the skimmer and return pump as well for feeding. Any suggestions there?
I think that's it for now, as if it isn't enough. I appreciate and thank everyone in advance for all suggestions and comments.

Take care

 

[moondoggy4]

Since you do not have much time between the move and setup I would look into TBS and since you are in Florida you may be able to Will Call and save on shipping. This way you will have about a week before the tanks is ready to be setup again. I would look into the Geo R sumps.

 

[pocurran]

Thanks...Not sure what TBS is. Also, I have the 120 up and running and will be setting up the 180 and transferring everything over to the 180, 25 miles away. I will have about two weeks to move everything from one home to the other. Thanks again.

 

[pocurran]

Forgot to mention last post. In MN I was running a modifies Herbie drain with two drains and one emergency with one return. In FL I am running two Durso drains with two returns. Both seemed to work well and I was wondering what the consensus is for each.

 

[tommyboynj]

if youve got 2 weeks thats plenty of time. I get the new tank set up ASAP. Run is with just rodi for a few days to ensure all is good. Then add salt to the new system. That way when you drain 50% the day of the live stock move you will have all that extra water on hand already. Always a good idea. Personally i wouldn't worry about using your old water. I went from a 90g to about 250g total system volume with all new water. Just acclimate.

If you have the luxury of being able to do so id set something like a a large rubbermaid up at the new place. Add a couple of media blocks to you current system now to create some additional bio filtration. Transfer all you coral and live stock to the rubbermaid. Transfer all you live rock to the new tank and take you time scaping etc without worrying about the corals and fish. Add your sand, let it all clear up for a day or two and then acclimate you livestock and corals into the new tank.

 

[pocurran]

Thanks tommyboynj...House is being built and won't be able to get in until it is ready. That's where the two weeks come in. Trying to semi cure/cure my old rock for the next few months before moving to new place so I will have it ready...din;t know if I could add it all or a few pieces here and there. I'm guessing to add it slowly, especially with all new water. Thanks again...

 

[pocurran]

I have been doing more reading about the drains and may go with Herbie after all. I was running Herbie method in MN before, but realize I was just doing what I thought the guy at the LFS told me to do, so it was working, but wasn't quite right. In FL, decided to go with the Durso, but it seemed to be making too much noise, raising and lowering and so on. Again, just doing what was suggested by other people without understanding and doing correctly. Decided that since the gate valve idea worked on the Herbie, I should try it here as well and it seemed to work. Didn't realize that with the Durso it is not necessary and should not have a gate valve on it. Also read several more people that say it will eventually fail more often than the Herbie than the ones that never had any problems. Might try playing with the Durso the way it's supposed to be over the next few months before the move to see if I can get it to work realistically.

If I end up going with the Herbie, I know there should be a straight shot to the sump, but not sure if the Corner Overflows position will allow this. Any ideas if two 45s PVC fitting to divert it to the tank will impede flow enough to affect the draining? I was thinking two submerged drains in the overflows, one in each, the emergency drain in one of the overflows and then using the last hole for return. Also playing with the idea of running manifold along the back for the return water instead of just the lock fitting. Any ideas on thei sone?