Moving From a 60G to a 120G

[BadgeNC]

I'm planning a move (to a different location in my home) from an established 60G sumpless reef tank with around 75lbs of liverock and about 10 fish and several corals (mostly soft/LPS).

The new 120G will have a separate sump, skimmer, lights, etc. I can leave the 60G running separately and do things slowly if that would be better. I'm planning on using new sand (reef flakes) and transferring the liverock over.

A few questions:

1. The new 120G has 1/2" starboard on the bottom. Should I remove the starboard before adding new sand, or is it OK to put the sand on top of the starboard?

2. Should I seed the new sand with some of the old? My concern is that the old will make the new reef flakes "dirty" looking and not sure how much benefit this will provide. I could also use some of the old sand in the sump refugium, but not sure on that.

3. Should I fill the 120G with fresh/new saltwater? From what I've read, there's little benefit from using the 60G water.

4. I my add some additional dry rock, is it OK to add this at the start, or would you recommend adding it slowly after transferring the 60G rock?

5. Should I get everything setup/running in the 120G with new sand/water and let it run for a few days/weeks before transferring any livestock/rock? (I'm not sure if there will be a cycle or not)

6. In the sump, I'll have the skimmer/refugium/return sections. Any advice on setting up the refugium section? (this will be my first sump system)

7. Where is the best place to put my heaters, media reactor (BRS dual), and ATO?


Any other tips to avoid problems would be welcome (it's my first tank"upgrade").

Thanks in advance!

 

[Flaring Afro]

1. I'd remove the starboard. There isn't any point to it if you are going to have sand. It's just there for looks (or preventing things from moving around) if you don't.

2. That's up to you. I'd cycle the new sand. Putting some of your current in would help jump start the cycle but isn't necessary. You also could put it in the sump if you have a place for it, that's up to you too. If you do plan on having any sand at all in the sump, yeah I'd definitely use the 60's in there.

3. All the beneficial bacteria that keeps things stable is in the rock and sand. I'd just make new water.

4. Add the dry rock first, especially if it was once alive (is not man made). You'll need to cycle that with the new sand because there could be dead things left on it that could crash a tank.

5. Pretty much answered above. You could take a piece of your current rock and put it in the new tank right away to help start the spread of coralline if you wish.

I'm less picky about the other questions so I'll let others answer them with their own suggestions.

 

[Wazzel]

1. No reason for the starboard if you are going sand. I would remove

2. I would not use any of the old sand. It will be nasty.

3. Depends. If you are going to a new location and you are using new rock and all that then start with new water and cycle, etc. If you are going in the same location and need a quick move use the water from the old tank, less the last little bit that will be nasty by the time the break down is done.

4. if the rock is truly dry, dead rock adding at the start is fine.

5. If you are not adding new live rock there will not be much if any cycle. I transferred my stock to a holding tank, tore down my 60, set up my 120 and moved the stock to the 120 all in one day. I run bare bottom and did not add any rock so it was like a big water change to my live stock. There was no cycle in the 120.

6 & 7 are personal preference. I designed my sump to have a fuge, but have not set it up. That is where my heater is located for now.

 

[BadgeNC]

Thanks a bunch guys! Regarding the starboard, It's pretty tightly siliconed in, and I may risk scratching or cracking the glass trying to pry it out from around the overflow cutout. I'm assuming it wouldn't do any harm leaving in?

 

[Wazzel]

Thanks a bunch guys! Regarding the starboard, It's pretty tightly siliconed in, and I may risk scratching or cracking the glass trying to pry it out from around the overflow cutout. I'm assuming it wouldn't do any harm leaving in?

Look from the bottom to see if it is fully siliconed or just the edges. It is it the whole thing just leave it in place. If it is just the end you might be able to cut it free. It will not harm anything, the material in inert.

 

[Bent]

I wouldn't even worry about removing it.

 

[denash24]

1. No reason for the starboard if you are going sand. I would remove

2. I would not use any of the old sand. It will be nasty.

3. Depends. If you are going to a new location and you are using new rock and all that then start with new water and cycle, etc. If you are going in the same location and need a quick move use the water from the old tank, less the last little bit that will be nasty by the time the break down is done.

4. if the rock is truly dry, dead rock adding at the start is fine.

5. If you are not adding new live rock there will not be much if any cycle. I transferred my stock to a holding tank, tore down my 60, set up my 120 and moved the stock to the 120 all in one day. I run bare bottom and did not add any rock so it was like a big water change to my live stock. There was no cycle in the 120.

6 & 7 are personal preference. I designed my sump to have a fuge, but have not set it up. That is where my heater is located for now.

Exactly what he said except I would strongly recommend using most of the water from your old tank (except the last 1" to 2" of nasty bottom water).