My 150G Build Thread

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10194231#post10194231 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
Looks great Russ, did you paint the overflow boxes as well? :D

Just the outside except for the bottom.
 
One day worth of work, 2 more trips Lowes and a pack and a half of smokes later, i got the CL all plumbed up. Dont mind the nozzles. They will be replace with something better eventually.
CL3800x600-1.jpg
[/IMG]

CL4800x600-1.jpg
[/IMG]

CL5800x600.jpg
[/IMG]

CL6800x600.jpg
[/IMG]

Just gotta let the glue dry for a bit then I shall be filling it up for the test.
 
Houston! We have a leak! LOL! 2 spot. One from the 1 1/2 bulkead and another from a CL return joint. Got get some more glue. I cranks as much as I could on the BH but to no avail. Looks like I have to partially drain it an check the seal.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10211355#post10211355 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Deuce67
Houston! We have a leak! LOL! 2 spot. One from the 1 1/2 bulkead and another from a CL return joint. Got get some more glue. I cranks as much as I could on the BH but to no avail. Looks like I have to partially drain it an check the seal.

I had the same problem from a bulkhead in my overflow box. Nothing helped mine except to silicon around it from the bottom and put the nut back on.

I also saw some leak tape black in color good up to 100 psi that you can wrap around a joint if you can't get more glue to work. Think I saw it at Lowes, maybe Homodepot, hell I can't remember.
 
I got the BH to stop leaking. I applied some more pvc glue around the leaky joint. Its fired up right now. Im prolly getting 400 to 500 gph per outlet with 6 total. Looks like I have a couple more pinhole leaks. im gonna let it run for a day or so and mark every leak I find. See, there is a reason why I wanted to wait till warmer weather. I can do everything in the garage!
 
I also got all the exposed edges sanded and polished up too! I may just do the entire tank. I hit it with a 200, 320, 400 and 600 grit sandpaper then finished it off with a polishing buffer. Thanks Eric for lending me your buffer!
 
No prob on the buffer. :D I had the same issue with the bulkheads, just drain the water a little, loosen the nut to allow the gasket to reseal and tighten back down. Worked just fine for me. Looking great!
 
Where do you guys get your bulkheads, online, or at some other store. I didn't see any at home depot last time I checked.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10271646#post10271646 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Caleb Kruse
Where do you guys get your bulkheads, online, or at some other store. I didn't see any at home depot last time I checked.
Scott at ET can hook you up.
 
The blade was one I picked up at Lowes, I don't recall the brand but it was like 45 bucks and teeth had 0 rake on them, it was the only one they carried. If you are doing a smaller job, they carry a DeWalt blade for cutting plastic that works great and is only 9 bucks, just doesn't last as long and is a smaller blade.
 
Not sure I follow your question, but I'll try.

Acrylic is plastic, so any plywood, fine finish, or plastic cutting circular saw blade will work fine for acrylic. You want as many teeth as possible, and with as little rake (angle on the teeth) as possible. You want all the teeth in alignment, not angled out from the blade.

HTH,
-Eric
 
Thanks, I see. I once buy a blade it said for plastic cutting, It's exactly like you describe ( 6" wide). Problem was the cut did not give me smoothcut, due to melting. Do you do make a fast cutting, meaning feed the arclyric thru the blade fast or slow? vincent
 
We fed it at a medium pace I would say. It was a brand spanking new blade when we built my tank. I believe it was a Dewalt brand IIRC. The edges were pretty smooth when it was cut.
 
Back
Top