My 480g plywood tank is nearing completion lots of pics.

Hey, I understand you just traded some guy for a really cool purple LTA. ;)

Do you have any pictures of that anemone in his new home?
 
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You can jsut barely see him in the pic going sidways back behind the clams but I will see if I can get a better shot.
 
I have never had a tank of any sort fail as of yet so I cant really compare cost wise plywoods are much cheaper once you get to aroun 200+_
 
The top of your tank will probably fail!!!!!You shold have at least two wide center braces on the tank top!!
Rip
 
Thanx for the encouragement there rip i am confident my tnak will be just fine though width has nothing to do with strength
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6858190#post6858190 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by rip
The top of your tank will probably fail!!!!!You shold have at least two wide center braces on the tank top!!
Rip

:rolleye1:
 
Safety First!

Safety First!

I want to explain why the tank could fail.Look at the first pic where the tank is painted blue,without the viewing panel.The top cross piece is obviously bowed out,with ZERO pressure on it.You could push or pull on it and it would give several inches in or out.Now look at the pic after the viewing panel is installed.The top cross piece is now straight!The cross piece has conformed to the straight viewing panel.There is zero front bowing support for the top front of your tank.You would never find a commercially made tank built this way,four foot tanks come with center braces.I have built several large plywood tanks.For ultimate strength I did this.
8 ft x4tx3 ft wide. I built the whole tank out of solid 3/4 marine plywood.One end piece is NOT screwed in place.The acrylic panel will be inserted from the side.Now,decide how much [picture frame] you want to support the front acrylic,say 4 inches all around.Mark your front plywood panel and cut it out,leaving a 4 inch perimeter.Now the top,I would leave 2 wide braces,say 4 inches wide,spaced evenly.Leave a good 3- 4 wide peremiter,just like the front,but with two wide braces,front to back.Cut the 2 top pieces out.Now fiberglass,epoxy everything.When dry,slide you acrylic panel in from the side and silicone in place.Last fit your end panel in place,screw it in,then from inside tank,glass that panel in.This is one strong tank.Plus,with top cross braces you,have support for 4 ft lights.If you want to cover the tank,you now have 3 short openings to cover with glass,safer and easy to manage.
Rip
 
I have a picture of the tank described.

I have a picture of the tank described.

Guys and Gals,
I have pics of tank I described but have no clue how to add them to posts..My email is rippysub@bellsouth.net .I will email the pics to someone and they can post them to give people an idea of my method.The pics are of the first tank I built,and I used oak for the front frame instead of the solid plywood.Rest of my tanks were built as described,easier and stronger.Thanks.
Rip
 
Obviosuly you didnt look at all the pics I euorbraced and added a center brace later on there is les sthen 1/4" of bow on the tank now compared to my commercially built tanks which some have over 5/8" bow and are over 20 years old.
 
Wow, I really like your tank. Good job.

Where is the overflow? Did you drill the back to accomodate returns etc or are they suspended above the tank? Also wondering if there are any issues installing bulkheads, ie, do the seat properly against the wall?

I assume the fiberglass is not absolutely require, rather just to help seal the tank? I'm thinking of building a 50G test tank and might not use the fiberglass, just seal it with marine epoxy.

Thanks,
Jaret
 
Returns are suspended over the tank but the back is drilled for the close loop feeds and for the overflow which is internal and just a big glass box. The seals themselves I thought were actually easier then on glass for whatever reason.
 
It's been a few months so I figured I'd give this a bump to see where you're at.

I also wanted to ask anybody that's listening if you've personally witnessed a wood tank fail. If you did, what happened? Slow leak or one day it just falls apart and floods your house?

Ron
 
Here we go
136right_06.jpg

136middle_06.jpg

136left_up_06-med.jpg
 
How does the cost of materials and time put in to making the tank compare to the cost of buying a premade tank? I can't find much in the way of ~415 gallon tanks, especially locally. If I can sell all my saltwater stuff, I'm tempted to upgrade for my turtles.

RN
 
Wow! I have been delaying ordering my tank for so long due to the cost. My husband has a woodworking shop in our house and he's quite handy. I know he could do it. Where would he begin (of course after reading this post)? I have some more questions if you do not mind.

What color is the epoxy? Are there different colors to choose from?
How did you build and plumb the overflow? Can you desribe it in more detail with pictures hopefully?
Mine would be inwall but the back will be in my equipment room with no wall behind it. You mentioned needing two sheets of plywood if done this way. What thickness would I use on the back and sides? The tank will be 90"X48"X30".
Thank you.
 
I saw in your earlier posts that the epoxy appeared light blue. It looks much darker in the completed tank. Can you explain this?
Thank you.
 
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