My Biocube 32 LED journey

[TexChuck]

You have a lot more experience than I do so I'm afraid I don't have thoughts on running from floss to blue to fugue to skimmer, however this seems to be a setup suggested by intank.

"Do not use alongside a protein skimmer. The fuge basket is not four sided and macro algae can be sucked into the skimmer's pump. If you would like a skimmer combined with a fuge, purchase the BC29 Media Basket. It will protect the algae from the pump and give you a spot for filter floss! Disregard the MIN/MAX line on the tank. It is not needed in a reef setup. Please add new water to your second or thrid chamber so that the level is just under the top of your basket or at the first, top shelf of the Media Basket."

I'm personally having second thoughts now about the fuge basket I have en route from Intank; thinking using part of the media tray would be more than enough and upgrade my skimmer to the Tunze, but we'll see how things work with the CL skimmer for me and the fugue basket. What am I going to do with all the trays in the media tray?? Good problem to have I s'pose.

I wanted to thank you for the tips -- I installed my spinstream today and it's great. I ended up going with a jebao pp-4 for the powerhead, so it's very similar to what you're running. Installed both today, and the ATO yesterday.

Apologies for copying you !!!

 

[reefried bean]

You have a lot more experience than I do so I'm afraid I don't have thoughts on running from floss to blue to fugue to skimmer, however this seems to be a setup suggested by intank.

"Do not use alongside a protein skimmer. The fuge basket is not four sided and macro algae can be sucked into the skimmer's pump. If you would like a skimmer combined with a fuge, purchase the BC29 Media Basket. It will protect the algae from the pump and give you a spot for filter floss! Disregard the MIN/MAX line on the tank. It is not needed in a reef setup. Please add new water to your second or thrid chamber so that the level is just under the top of your basket or at the first, top shelf of the Media Basket."

I'm personally having second thoughts now about the fuge basket I have en route from Intank; thinking using part of the media tray would be more than enough and upgrade my skimmer to the Tunze, but we'll see how things work with the CL skimmer for me and the fugue basket. What am I going to do with all the trays in the media tray?? Good problem to have I s'pose.

I wanted to thank you for the tips -- I installed my spinstream today and it's great. I ended up going with a jebao pp-4 for the powerhead, so it's very similar to what you're running. Installed both today, and the ATO yesterday.

Apologies for copying you !!!

Copy away my friend. I think that is what this forum is for. I just hope that as we progress we can share sucesses and perhaps avoid setbacks. I'm in full red slime algae bloom right now which is why i decided to install the refugium. I did set it up in the bottom compartment of my InTank media basket. I am using the new BC32 version and it has a door to keep the magro algae (in my case chaeto) contained. I reinstalled my sponge where it is supposed to be to protect the pump from debris but InTank may have a point about the skimmer taking on debris from the fuge. Plus my ATO switch is at the water level line in compartment 3 and I have the UV Sterilizer in there too so the sponge is a PITA to put in place. I am now thinking about moving the sponge to the bottom of the media basket which would protect the skimmer as well as the pump from any algae debris or copepods.

 

[TexChuck]

Copy away my friend. I think that is what this forum is for. I just hope that as we progress we can share sucesses and perhaps avoid setbacks. I'm in full red slime algae bloom right now which is why i decided to install the refugium. I did set it up in the bottom compartment of my InTank media basket. I am using the new BC32 version and it has a door to keep the magro algae (in my case chaeto) contained. I reinstalled my sponge where it is supposed to be to protect the pump from debris but InTank may have a point about the skimmer taking on debris from the fuge. Plus my ATO switch is at the water level line in compartment 3 and I have the UV Sterilizer in there too so the sponge is a PITA to put in place. I am now thinking about moving the sponge to the bottom of the media basket which would protect the skimmer as well as the pump from any algae debris or copepods.

Hopefully my intank baskets come soon so I'll be able to install and we can compare notes. The answer I quoted was from the FAQ on the fuge basket -- the question was whether or not you can run a skimmer alongside the fuge basket and the answer was no, but they said should be fine with media basket. I'm thinking they just haven't updated the website to recommend the 32 media basket instead of the 29?

I'm very curious to hear how it works for you since I've ordered the fuge basket and think we're going for the same thing (floss -> chem -> fuge -> skimmer), except I'm running the dinky CL skimmer in chamber 1. If what you're doing works out then I may scrap the fugue basket and pick up the 9001 so I am running with a stronger skimmer. I thought I needed the separate fuge basket but apparently I don't.

That's a lot in chamber 3 Did you see the rec on intank's website to swap the sponge out with every WC? I'm dreading that bit -- in my chamber 3 I have a heater, ATO float sensor, ATO return.

I also need to figure out where to find chaeto ! I'm still cycling so nothing blooming (except diatom and aipstasia..grin) I just like the idea of using macroalgea to help keep nitrates in check naturally and have seen the benefit of plants in FW tanks.

 

[reefried bean]

Hopefully my intank baskets come soon so I'll be able to install and we can compare notes. The answer I quoted was from the FAQ on the fuge basket -- the question was whether or not you can run a skimmer alongside the fuge basket and the answer was no, but they said should be fine with media basket. I'm thinking they just haven't updated the website to recommend the 32 media basket instead of the 29?

I'm very curious to hear how it works for you since I've ordered the fuge basket and think we're going for the same thing (floss -> chem -> fuge -> skimmer), except I'm running the dinky CL skimmer in chamber 1. If what you're doing works out then I may scrap the fugue basket and pick up the 9001 so I am running with a stronger skimmer. I thought I needed the separate fuge basket but apparently I don't.

That's a lot in chamber 3 Did you see the rec on intank's website to swap the sponge out with every WC? I'm dreading that bit -- in my chamber 3 I have a heater, ATO float sensor, ATO return.

I also need to figure out where to find chaeto ! I'm still cycling so nothing blooming (except diatom and aipstasia..grin) I just like the idea of using macroalgea to help keep nitrates in check naturally and have seen the benefit of plants in FW tanks.

The intank for the 32 has three compartments with adjustable shelves. I think the floss in the top is a no brainer. I made the switch to ChemiPure Blue in the second compartment since it is essentially CP Elite with Purigen. I am only using the 5.5 oz size to allow for maximum flow. My intention is to change monthly. It may be a bit more expensive but at around 10 bucks a pop I figure that is like 2 beers at my bar. I can swing that.

That allowed me to maximize the size of my fuge directly below it which for now just has cheato in it. I got my cheato from my LFS. He just sold me 2 hand fulls for 8 bucks. It takes up about half of the chamber now and has a nano light on it for 12 hours a day. I am using the light during the time my tank is off because I have heard it helps with PH swings.

I ride motorcycles in a motorcycle club and when the weather breaks I will not have a ton of time so it's important for me to make this fairly quick and easy while still producing the results I want. That sponge is neither quick nor easy where it's designed to be located (probably the single most dysfunctional part of the BC design IMO). Changing weekly for me is not gonna happen like that so I cut the sponge to fit in the bottom of my fuge section just above the legs of the basket. That way I just pull the basket once a week when I do my water change and I have easy access to replace the sponge. The added bonus is it is before the skimmer too so it will keep any escaping macroe algae from the skimmer motor as well.

 

[TexChuck]

The intank for the 32 has three compartments with adjustable shelves. I think the floss in the top is a no brainer. I made the switch to ChemiPure Blue in the second compartment since it is essentially CP Elite with Purigen. I am only using the 5.5 oz size to allow for maximum flow. My intention is to change monthly. It may be a bit more expensive but at around 10 bucks a pop I figure that is like 2 beers at my bar. I can swing that.

That allowed me to maximize the size of my fuge directly below it which for now just has cheato in it. I got my cheato from my LFS. He just sold me 2 hand fulls for 8 bucks. It takes up about half of the chamber now and has a nano light on it for 12 hours a day. I am using the light during the time my tank is off because I have heard it helps with PH swings.

I ride motorcycles in a motorcycle club and when the weather breaks I will not have a ton of time so it's important for me to make this fairly quick and easy while still producing the results I want. That sponge is neither quick nor easy where it's designed to be located (probably the single most dysfunctional part of the BC design IMO). Changing weekly for me is not gonna happen like that so I cut the sponge to fit in the bottom of my fuge section just above the legs of the basket. That way I just pull the basket once a week when I do my water change and I have easy access to replace the sponge. The added bonus is it is before the skimmer too so it will keep any escaping macroe algae from the skimmer motor as well.

You're not kidding about that sponge... I just spent most of the day rerouting all my wires and tubes and such and cleaning everything up, getting everything inside the cabinet (except the ATO refill tank -- still haven't decided what I wnat to use for that, so I'm just using one of the LFS water totes next to the setup. Ugly but works)

You're absolutely right about the media basket. I'm not sure what I'm doing with the fuge basket -- I have an extra shelf I could take the top shelf out and lower the water level in back to provide more agitation from chamber 1 to 2 into the floss? (Not sure agitation is the word, but water falling a longer distance)

I'm going to reach out to intank I think and see what they think.

My kids are active in sports, so my time's limited too... Full Apex automation was out of budget for this build, but I think it's going to be a pretty self sustaining system once complete.

 

[reefried bean]

You're not kidding about that sponge... I just spent most of the day rerouting all my wires and tubes and such and cleaning everything up, getting everything inside the cabinet (except the ATO refill tank -- still haven't decided what I wnat to use for that, so I'm just using one of the LFS water totes next to the setup. Ugly but works)

You're absolutely right about the media basket. I'm not sure what I'm doing with the fuge basket -- I have an extra shelf I could take the top shelf out and lower the water level in back to provide more agitation from chamber 1 to 2 into the floss? (Not sure agitation is the word, but water falling a longer distance)

I'm going to reach out to intank I think and see what they think.

My kids are active in sports, so my time's limited too... Full Apex automation was out of budget for this build, but I think it's going to be a pretty self sustaining system once complete.

You don't have to break the bank to get that symbiotic balance. It's just a lot of trial and error up front and in my experiences I find the key is making adjustments slowly and sticking with what works and scrapping what doesn't. And once the balance is struck, you just have to maintain the same relative bioload and life is good. I am seriously considering turning off my UV sterilizer next in the event it is sterilizing that which could be fighting my phosphates but i will hold off for a week or so and see if this fuge works first. I am currently running from filter floss, then through 5.5 oz of CP Blue in the top chamber of my IT Media Basket. I have the adjustable shelf at the highest slot so that the refugium compartment below is as large as possible. I have about two hand fulls of cheato with a nano light on it and i cut the sponge to sit directly below the cheato at the base of the compartment.

Gonna leave things as is and test Ph, KH, Ca, Mg and Phosphates daily for a week or so and see where I'm at.

 

[reefried bean]

By the way, the folks at InTank are fantastic. Very helpful and responsive.

 

[zma21]

Any chance of posting pics of your LED strip you added? I'm looking to do something similar in my nanocube. It really needs more blue.

 

[eppersonm16]

Keep an eye on that Tunze nano ATO, I've had a couple of them fail and overflow two different tanks.

 

[Seattle_Reef]

Any chance of posting pics of your LED strip you added? I'm looking to do something similar in my nanocube. It really needs more blue.

I bought the same LED fixture that the original poster used, but I will be returning it. It says that it is just water resistant and must always be used over a covered aquarium. I'd be nervous about putting this fixture inside a closed lid that is always wet.

 

[zma21]

I bought the same LED fixture that the original poster used, but I will be returning it. It says that it is just water resistant and must always be used over a covered aquarium. I'd be nervous about putting this fixture inside a closed lid that is always wet.

It would be put in my nanocube hood protected by the plastic.

 

[reefried bean]

You don't have to break the bank to get that symbiotic balance. It's just a lot of trial and error up front and in my experiences I find the key is making adjustments slowly and sticking with what works and scrapping what doesn't. And once the balance is struck, you just have to maintain the same relative bioload and life is good. I am seriously considering turning off my UV sterilizer next in the event it is sterilizing that which could be fighting my phosphates but i will hold off for a week or so and see if this fuge works first. I am currently running from filter floss, then through 5.5 oz of CP Blue in the top chamber of my IT Media Basket. I have the adjustable shelf at the highest slot so that the refugium compartment below is as large as possible. I have about two hand fulls of cheato with a nano light on it and i cut the sponge to sit directly below the cheato at the base of the compartment.

Gonna leave things as is and test Ph, KH, Ca, Mg and Phosphates daily for a week or so and see where I'm at.

 

[reefried bean]

I bought the same LED fixture that the original poster used, but I will be returning it. It says that it is just water resistant and must always be used over a covered aquarium. I'd be nervous about putting this fixture inside a closed lid that is always wet.

For what it is worth, I am a licensed electrician. The application it is used for is considered a wet location however it is not submersed and, therefore a wet niche or submersible fixture is not required. Since the fixture is "water resistant" it withstands any moisture it does receive very well so far. I have my entire system ground faulted (which I recommend for all tanks always) to prevent electric shock in the event that the water becomes conductive. The ground fault interrupter on my circuit, which is set to 6 mA has never tripped on me since installing the light.

That being said, I don't advocate that any one try this if they are not comfortable and competent enough to do so in a manner that they are confident is safe and I certainly think that anytime you have electrical parts within 6' of water (which is the length of the average reachable cord) that you should use ground fault protection and have a drip loop for each cord that is plugged into that GFI.

 

[Seattle_Reef]

For what it is worth, I am a licensed electrician. The application it is used for is considered a wet location however it is not submersed and, therefore a wet niche or submersible fixture is not required. Since the fixture is "water resistant" it withstands any moisture it does receive very well so far. I have my entire system ground faulted (which I recommend for all tanks always) to prevent electric shock in the event that the water becomes conductive. The ground fault interrupter on my circuit, which is set to 6 mA has never tripped on me since installing the light.

That being said, I don't advocate that any one try this if they are not comfortable and competent enough to do so in a manner that they are confident is safe and I certainly think that anytime you have electrical parts within 6' of water (which is the length of the average reachable cord) that you should use ground fault protection and have a drip loop for each cord that is plugged into that GFI.

Great advice, thank you for clarifying. My tank is at my workplace in my office, so I suppose that I have to be even more careful as mistakes could potentially harm my co-workers. I can't change my outlet to GFCI, but I have everything going through 2 GFCI outlet strips which I think should give enough protection.

 

[reefried bean]

Pics of my TruLumen install... I used all nylon hardware (10-32 size) and have connected to a GFI to assure that there is no electrical shock risk due to the moisture build up. This is the Fusion 12k white ans actinic blue combo. Unable to meter under water but it clearly adds a substantial boost to the light and shimmer effect. Too early to tell the effects on my LFS and softies but I have a brain coral that is in the bottom third and it appears happy thus far.

 

[reefried bean]

My BC32 reef today...

 

[reefried bean]

Great advice, thank you for clarifying. My tank is at my workplace in my office, so I suppose that I have to be even more careful as mistakes could potentially harm my co-workers. I can't change my outlet to GFCI, but I have everything going through 2 GFCI outlet strips which I think should give enough protection.

If your GFI protection on the strips is set to trip at 6 mA or less it is designed to protect anyone who is an infant or larger from shock. I would think that even at that small of an amperage, the tank inhabitants would still be at risk in the event of a leak smaller than the ground fault setting but it is highly unlikely that water would provide a clear conductive path without tripping the GFI regardless of the setting. Unfortunately, those physics are beyond my knowledge beyond the human safety aspect.I can say that your ground fault strips are designed to protect your co-workers and yourself if operating properly for sure.

 

[Seattle_Reef]

My BC32 reef today...

Wow, that looks fantastic, way to go!!!

 

[Bigmar75]

@refried bean, did the trulumen 12k/actinic add much blue when all the lights are on? I have the same led bio cube, but would like a little bluer look

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[reefried bean]

@refried bean, did the trulumen 12k/actinic add much blue when all the lights are on? I have the same led bio cube, but would like a little bluer look

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Not visibly and likely just the opposite. The fusion version appears to have more intensity on the 12k. If you are just looking for more blue they do make an actinic version. I have a few LPS that require moderate to high lighting and two of them are near the substrate so I was looking for more intensity in the full spectrum.