My disaster, please help

jay_blu

New member
ok where to start? I have been in the hobby since 2001 when I got my first 125gal tank. I have had a saltwater tank ever since, I even worked at a local fish store. I can see that not being on the forums for WAY to long I'm light years behind. I know that I'm a horribly irresponsible person for letting my tank get to this, But I think the time has come to do right by my fish. I have a 180 truvu acrylic tank, a smallish sump probably 30gal, 3 dolphin pumps from about 6000gph to 3000gph, a AquaC ev240 with mag 18, two fish reactor 150 and 550 running npx bio plastics, a Sealine Aquarium Chiller SL-500A 1/2 HP, diy reefledlights.com LED light fixture and a reef keeper light. I have and auto top off from Autotopoff.com that has worked flawless. I was using an RO but I'm on a well and it was running a lot so I stopped that. The good is the wife is into the fish tanks like I am but just dont know too much so what ever I need to get for this is pretty a go as long as the money is in the account lol. She would let me tare down half the house and re build it if it meant a good reef tank at some point.

the bad. we probably haven't done a water change in about 4 years... the only maintenance we have done to the tank has been to clean the front every 6 months or so, add npx bio plastics, wash the sock maybe every month and to feed the fish every night. The fish are fat and healthy though, probably not too happy. my salinity is at 1.018 so that needs to come up, I have a whole new test kit on order to get the rest. I think I might even sign up for the lab water testing for a while, what do you think? The tank needs replaced, I'm working on the funds to do this as its built in the wall and the new one needs to fit the same hole. when I got the tank used the euro bracing was cracked so I cut it out and welded a steel support painted with silver bullet, it rusted! The bulk heads are in the overflows on a tight fit but leak salt creep. My LED fixture is hammered with salt spray half the chips are burnt (i got replacements, need to put them in)

1. I would like to get an APEX to automate water changes for now or they wont get done. I would like to use a solenoid valve to drain what should be used?

2. new tank, I am thinking an acrylic 270 gallon but cant find one that is only 2ft high, 6ft long and 3ft deep. I built the stand for this size tank when we bought the house. I was thinking of contacting ATM lol I would like one with a coast to coast overflow, are people still using those?

3. new sump....

ok now for pictures or it didn't happen.


Tank shot with the front clean, see half the leds a toasted
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Good tube worm growth, they are cool the glow green under the actinic
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Clowns are happy to see me, poor guys
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good aptasia growth
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green mushrooms are hanging in there
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shot of the burn LEDS
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Rusty top supports about the let go....
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water change setup that dont get used
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shot of the sump
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you need to hire someone to come and maintain your tank for you.

start of slow with the water changes you might kill all your tank inhabitants except the aiptasia.

if you fix your lights you will definitely grow some sick algae!
 
You seem to know what you did wrong and what you need to do to fix it. I'd recommend you try not to reuse any of that liver rock or you'll have a nice colony of aiptaisia in the new system in no time. Save the fish, and that's about it. Maybe you can clean the pumps up and some of the equipment but it needs a proper cleaning.

Do what you want right the first time.

Good luck!
 
Does anyone know what if any, Solenoid Valves are used in the apex auto water change system?

the dolphin pumps are mostly covered in salt creep from the drains slowly leaking. I'm going to send them off to Dolphin to get rebuilt with new seals and cleaned up, thats why I have a standby pump.

these might be two options..
1 http://autotopoff.com/Solenoids/index.html

2 http://www.amazon.com/Irritrol-2400...sr=1-1-spell&keywords=irrtrol+sprinkler+valve

the sprinkler valve would be easy to get parts for. one thing that is nice is it would be on my closed loop and with the dolphin running if the valve stuck open then it will not drain. The pump pulls as much as the tank head pressure puts out.
 
I'd say stay in the hobby, just downsize to a nano so that it suits your lifestyle. You have a big tank and that takes big dollars and a lot of time to keep nice.
 
Some good news, I got a copper banded butterfly and he ate all the aptasia. I still haven't fixed the lights, but the clowns started laying so I'm getting into rotifers and phytoplankton.

I can't grey pictures to work. ...m I'll try latter
 
Fixed the lights finally, only took 7hrs lol but the tank looks good all lit up again. This time I sprayed them with some led seal and fixed the micro bubbles that were spraying them.

Before, this is all that was working.
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The clowns decided to lay again, now that I have rotifers and phytoplankton going I think we stand a better chance.
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Thanks, I'm trying to get back into it. The baby clowns have me excited again. We have been doing water changes but the salinity is still low, I think it is a combination of the skimmer and auto top off. Right now I need to figure out if im doing the rotifers right.
 
Some tank shots with all the lights on
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This copper banded butterfly is my hero, in 3 days he destroyed all the aptasia! I would buy him a beer if I could
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I love these small tube worms growing in clusters all over my rock they glow green inner the actinic's.
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I still need to figure out if I want to replace the tank so it can be re-plumbed. It has some of the flex vacuum hose on each drain and they both leak salt creep. Also the bulk heads are all the way tight and they seep as well. Lol if I do get a new tank then I can use this 180 for a sump fuge combo.

Maybe can I get some pics of what people are using for drains with filter socks?

And again is any one using solenoid valves with an apex for drains?
 
your led looks like only blue and white mix. i would add more color led to make it full spectrum before you do anymore stocking. especially if you want to do sps
 
I'd probably stick to getting the current tank in order before you go and upgrade. IMO, an upgrade after neglecting a tank for years, and just getting back into things, makes no sense at all.
 
They are only blue and white, that's all they were doing 5 or 6 years ago when I built the light. I don't really know much about adding all the colors and uv leds. I wouldn't mind soo much it would probably be easier than what I just did to replace half of them. If I were to add more color could I just put them in series with the drivers I have or would I need a separate driver just for them. And how many of what color leds ate we talking?

The only reason I wanted to upgrade is so I didn't get this tank all nice to just rip it out. This tank will have to come out at some point there will be no way around that. I was just figuring it would be better to do it before I fit stock it.
 
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