I know the that the time if a pool timer but most pool timer makes one revolution once every 24 hours.
What did you do to slow down the revolutions?
It is controlled via my APEX controller to turn on for 45 minutes twice a day. 45 minutes is the time it take to move from one tube over the dispensing hole to the next tube over the dispensing hole. Then the blow dryer turns on for 60 seconds to make sure the cube drops down into the main tube.
What model pool timer did you use and what thickness of lexan/acrylic did you use for this feeder?
In the almost 18 months you've been using this...is there anything you would do differently or improve upon?
standard pool timer: http://www.lowes.com/pd_609710-251-T104M_0__?k_clickID=b2353e85-268c-4ee9-a40d-7bc1290b1b8d&store_code=792&productId=50277945&selectedLocalStoreBeanArray=%5Bcom.lowes.commerce.storelocator.beans.LocatorStoreBean%402d802d8%5D&storeNumber=0792&kpid=50277945&kpid=50277945&cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-RoughPlumbingElectrical-_-TimersAndSurgeProtectors-_-50277945%3AIntermatic&CAWELAID=&CAWELAID=320011480004234270
grey Brut trash can lids for material: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-Commercial-Products-BRUTE-20-Gal-Gray-Round-Trash-Can-Lid-FG261960GRAY/204656686?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CBase&gclid=COn41Per5scCFUeBfgodUFwBmw&gclsrc=aw.ds
things I would do differently:
1. install the bottom T (sump) on valved true unions on each side, for easy removal and cleaning
2. although 4" T and pipe is sufficient I'd possibly go 5 or 6" if I had room for a little more dwell time and pooling
other than that it's been very reliable
Thanks for the reply Elliot, I really appreciate it and the links.
So, two brute trash can lids.
Outer ring is cut off, and bottom one is fixed, (non rotating) to the pool timer body/frame/enclosure with a single hole cut out at 9 oclock, (assuming the back of the refrigerator is 12 oclock).
Second lid is mounted to the timer face and rotates with it. Holes are cut through it at regular intervals with PVC pipe sections mounted above the holes. Frozen food goes into the PVC sections, and when the holes in the bottom of the PVC sections line up with the single hole in the bottom lid, the frozen food drops down to the "sump" section of the refrigerator.
A low wattage hair drier kicks on for a minute or so to ensure the frozen food doesnt get hung up in the "downspout/standpipe" between the freezer and the sump in the refrigerator.
Is the sump plumbed directly into your return line or do you have a separate pump running that?
I've been trying to figure out a way to reliably feed frozen food at least once per day when I'm not home. And every way I've come up with seems to be close in cost to what this will end up being , (assuming I buy the refrigerator/freezer from Craigslist locally and save money).
I'm very much considering trying to make one of these.
Thank you.
yes, that's an accurate summary, but it's around 7 o'clock position on mine (towards the front where I can see it), not 9
the fridge is plumbed between your sump and the return pump, so it flows passively through the fridge then to the return pump, which goes back to the display
make sure the holes for the feeding stations are equal distance from each other, otherwise the timed rotations will not remain in proper sequence
also make sure that the diameter of the holes are the same as the internal diameter of the PVC pipe used for the feeding stations
good luck!
Thank you for the heads up on the plumbing from the sump, to the return pump.
This now complicates things for me, since my sump is not drilled.
Is it possible to run this on it's own pump?
IE, siphon from display to the sump in the fridge, and to a pump which returns to the tank? Or will there be a pressure problem, (overflowing and flooding)?
Elliot,
Because of my system set up and it's location, I'm somewhat limited in employing your DIY frozen fish food feeder/Franken-Feeder.
So I've opted to modify it somewhat to fit my needs and limitations.
The Food Magazine in the freezer will stay the same, as well as the down spout to the refrigerator below. However, it will differ some after that.
Rather than drilling through the side of the fridge and my sump to build the "Fridge Sump", I'm going to be using a Cole Parmer peristaltic pump to pull food from a container in refrigerator.
The magazine will drop the food from the freezer, down the down spout to the container below. The container is fed by another smaller peristaltic pump a few minutes before the magazine drops the food. The food is allowed to thaw for several minutes, and then gravity pulls it to the bottom of the container.
When the Cole Parmer pump kicks on, it will pull from the bottom first, thereby sucking out all of the food, and following with the rest of the tank water remaining in the container. This allows the tubing to be "flushed" with tank water to prevent food from spoiling in the tubing.
At least, that's the plan assuming Murphy cooperates with me. We'll see how it all works out in time. This way has more moving parts, (more potential points for failure), but it does allow me to feed frozen food to my fish while I'm gone without completely redesigning my sump. I'm not saving much money going about it this way either, since I just spent about $250 plus shipping on a used CP pump, head, and tubing. But doing it like yours would require a new sump which after plumbing, drilling etc would cost about $350 or more depending on how crazy I decided to go.
Thanks again Elliot and dotcommer for posting your information and suggestions in this thread.