My first sump....revamp in the future

[Ruckus16]

Long time lurker, few times posting




So I thought I did great research and had a planned out build. 40 breeder with 20L sump. Everything is good but not great.
My sump from left to right is drain/skimmer, return and the refugium.
Refugium- I'm going to remove the rock and give it a go with just chaeto. Right now it's a detritus trap. I can't increase the flow off my manifold without my return to the tank becoming almost nonexistent. I have purchased a gate valve to replace the ball valve. Hoping that will help...suggestions welcome
Media reactor- becomes clogged after about 3 days which wouldn't be a problem if I wasn't out of town 18 days of the month...
Filter sock- I need an easy way for my wife to change filter socks. Right now I have a zip tie through it which is clamped to the side of the tank. You have to be a contortionist to change it.
I'm halfway tempted to scrap the whole refugium and tear out that section of glass, rotate the sump 180 degrees and have a huge are for equipment.

Sorry for rambling. I have a lot to say and don't know how to say it. If you have any suggestions on how to improve my sump I would greatly appreciate it. I'm not opposed to purchasing a pre-built sump either if you know a good one for a 40 breeder.

 

[Capt_Dan]

That looks great! I will say at least for me, when I build something, I always end up finding some things I would do different! LOL

 

[Ruckus16]

Thanks. I really need to figure out how to increase the flow to the fuge. When I open the ball valve to the fuge section I lose almost all flow to the display. I'm new to plumbing so not sure how to correct thia.

 

[DasCamel]

Bigger return pump.

 

[Ruckus16]

I have tried. It circulates the water through the sump. The display water eventually lowers to a level where the it is below the overflow and then barely seeps over

 

[Jayreefer]

my sump was also a detritus trap until I remade mine to include filter socks. Now my sump is nice and clean.

 

[OllieNZ]

Koralia nano or another small power head of your choice?

 

[Rybren]

You don't NEED to have a huge flow though the fuge, but if you want more, I see three solutions:

Get a bigger return pump as suggested DasCamel (you may need to redo your plumbing to redirect the flow better.)

Add a powerhead in the fuge as suggested by Ollie

Turn off your valve to the fuge and add a pump that is dedicated to just feeding the fuge.

 

[Ruckus16]

I don't want to add a pump if it can be prevented. I'd like to make the manifold work since I'm running the reactor with it. What do I need to do to make it woek.

 

[Deefish714]

I can't really tell from pictures do you reduce your return line right at the pump? What size is that pump almost look like jebao. And it looks like it's being heavily reduced. I suggest re doing your plumbing if this is the case. Reducing of the pump is no good. My guess is when you fix that problem you will then be able to open the manifold and still get some power to the display.

 

[Deefish714]

For whats it's worth figured I'd post this up maybe give you a suggestion. I'd say ditch that tubing, not a pro hopefully someone will chime in. I say ditch the tubing

 

[Ruckus16]

Thanks deefish714. It a DCS4000. I used a gl*******s kit and the return line is 3/4". It stays 3/4" through the whole manifold....

 

[Deefish714]

So after more research the dct has a 1 1/4 npt on top. Why not run 1 1/4 the whole way up to the return wholes inside display. And run 3/4 tee of that line for manifold. The fitting from pump to pvc I have posted a picture. I'm sure it's not the exact one but that was just off a quick search. Fitting is very common at Home Depot. I added a union on top so I can access for pump maintence. Hopefully that makes sense. I ran the same problem I was running mine full speed once I switched to 1 1/2 I ran less then quarter speed with much better result. I,also run a tee off to my reactors a little different setup but almost the same

 

[Ruckus16]

So 1 1/4 all the way to the bulkhead? Would I just reduce it at the bulkhead?

 

[Deefish714]

yes. That would be best. On my setup I have it a little different here's a picture. I didn't want to mess with the pvc to bulk heads so this is what I did. Might help you out. This was before I completed strapping down all the off to stand

 

[Jayreefer]

also the DCS4000 might be a little on the low side to run fuge,reactors and DT. Try a 6000 or even 9000.

 

[Jayreefer]

Also to help with detritus build up in sump add a filter sock to the drain line and change it every few days.

 

[Deefish714]

I agree a new pump would help out a lot as well

 

[A sea K]

I believe Deefish714 has the correct answer.
I would have to think a 1000gph pump would be more than enough to run your fuge with plenty left for a 40gal DT. My 714gph Sicce has more than enough for my 80gal DT and runs my reactors as well, plumbing is 3/4 silicone tubing.

 

[Ruckus16]

I have filter socks in my sump. Two of them.
The 4000 does 1056gph at 100%. That would be 20x tank+sump turnover.
I understand the loss of gph due to head loss/fittings/etc but I think a larger pump is may create more problems.
I have installed a gate valve on my pipe going to the fuge and everything is running great. The ball valve didn't allow me to fine tune like I needed