My Latest Build 325-400g

smklaw

Active member
Just getting ready to start a new house and have planned a built-in tank with full fish-room behind it. 2 sides will be viewable and I am pretty much limited on the length only- 7 feet. Crystal Dynamic has already quoted me a couple different sizes, but I just can't make a decision. I believe 30" for the depth is enough, but the height is where I'm stuck. I was actually considering doing a large insert, sticking 50 fish in it and taking a long break from the live reef so I had the tank originally quoted at 36" tall. Took a huge hit in Hurricane Irma and lost just about my entire tank. Well it took all of a few days for me to scrap that idea as I realized I would regret not doing the full mixed-reef after keeping some type of live reef most of my life.

I don't think the depth will be an issue for lighting, but 36" might be a huge PITA to do any work on compared to 28" or 30". My wife would like to see a lot more fish than I usually keep and the 36" would be a huge plus there, especially since I am going to have a lot more sps than ever before. Since it is built in and I will have a full room available behind it the maintenance would be a bit easier, especially if I install a platform up 2-3 feet. I plan to get a Royal Exclusiv Dreambox 3.0 that will not be under the tank at all. The sink will be moving to make space for the giant filter system.

Anyone care to share their thoughts?
 

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A couple things i'd recommend that made a difference in my sump room. Do a drain line around the room that every sump or container can overflow into. Have space for a manifold and reactors, water storage and mixing, possibly a frag tank, and or quarantine space.
 
If lots of fish are the focus with a mixed reef, consider 36" back to front.

Honestly, height of a DT will not be an issue IF access to front and back sides are available along with tools like QuikPik AquaTongs. I've had the honor of working on systems 30" to 6ft tall and its easy IF you have accessibility to the DT and the right tools. Without one or the other, you will dread the maintenance and it's just going to be a waste of time, effort, money and livestock.

Understanding that you had a catastrophic loss from power outages from a hurricane (my apologies as we don't get then to that degree in Canada), perhaps consider power back up for basic electrical equipment for the system should be in the plan for heaters, powerheads, LED light bars and sized for the hourly downtime that you have experienced whether be gas generator or deepcycle batteries.
 
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Jeff- I do plan for a mixing tank (whole house in on r/o water), frag tank and a quarantine tank. I am not sure I understand the drain line around the room. I am having a floor drain installed in the center of the room that I was planning to be able to access to siphon to from anything in the room. I plan to tile the entire room and up the walls 4', but still haven't figured out how to make the door a bit water-proof in the event of a major water leak so the floor drain has a chance to drain it away.

wtac-I do not plan to have access to the front, but the entire tank will be open to the room behind. That's one of the reasons I will probably limit front to back to 30", but I am leaning towards the 36" depth and using MH again (with LED). I have a 30kw generator with 1000 gallon gas tank going in. I have had too many electrical issues over the years.
 
Well, the house has been an absolute nightmare. We are finally, after 26 months, getting the tile installed and cabinets starting next week. My first new build for myself and will definitely be my last. I did end up going with a 72" x 36" x 30" tall tank from Crystal Dynamic, which is supposed to be complete this week. Stand was done months ago and I had them powder coat it in the blue that Geo is going to use in my filter system. He happened to move a few years ago within 5 minutes of my new house so we plan to work on the filter system when the tank is actually here and in the room. I have purchased a couple of MP60 powerheads, but am going to wait to see the actual tank with the 48" Modular Marin Overflow Box installed to decide if I have the space to add a couple of Gyre XF 330. The only other items, a big one, that I have already purchased is the Giesemann Aurora V8 1500mm. The reviews of the light and my knowledge of the quality of their products for a lot of years in the hobby made it a done deal.

Other big item I am going to try to decide on very soon is whether I am going with Apex or GHL for my controller. I actually already have an Apex system that is 5-6 years old that I never even opened up. Hurricane Irma hit shortly after I bought it and my tank completely crashed so I have just left the tank as fish only since I already had plans to move and seriously upgrade the tank.

Some pics. The one showing the tank opening is kinda old as the living room is tiled. I just picked out the white tile (2' x 4') for the fish room yesterday.
 

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Just received tank pics for final approval. Damn they build a nice tank.
Anyone see anything I don't?
They are also going to fit a piece of starboard in the bottom of the stand in case I want to add a large refugium there.
 

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Tank was finally shipped today. Drain installed last week. Tile is almost done, but since I had to frame the wall lower than I need it to be when done in order to be able to fit the stand through the opening we have a bit of a new plan.
We are going to have the tank places with a lull onto a 3/4" piece of plywood in the living room for now and go ahead and put the stand in the fish room and raise the wall up before the tank goes in. This way we can tile the entire inside of the wall where the tank sits. Still going to be tricky since you can't really turn the stand at all in order to tile behind it. Our tentative plan is to tile (same 2' x 4' tile as floor, but glossy) the first course before the stand goes in, frame the wall up to the bottom of the cantilevered stand and then raise the stand up 4' with wood supports so he can tile up to the top of wall.
I'm probably confusing the heck out of you all, but I'll take lots of pics as we go.
Not going to Reefapalooza this weekend since I just have so much to do and have no where to put all that eye candy anyways.
 

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Might as well throw in some house pics too
 

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Thought I should show why I so badly want to get this new house and tank ready to go. I lost all my corals and most of my fish after Hurricane Irma when I lost power for 13 days that I was just so bummed that I just neglected it for several years and just started to try to get things cleaned up. I had so much green hair algae that my water has consistently for a year had mostly zero test results. Most of it is cleaned up now, but still quite a bit. I really want to keep my rock (with major reconfiguration and some cutting) as its mostly marshall island and some fiji so super light and full of crevices.
You can see the crazing in the front area. Tank was originally set up in my office on Marco Island and has been full and running since 2004, except for a 2-3 month window when I moved it to my house. I think 19 years isn't too bad since the crazing just showed up in the last couple of years.
 

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So the tank and stand came in last week to my moving company, and of course, there was damage. Thank god it was only to the stand and CDA has offered to pay for me to get it re-powder coated here, but not sure its worth the time an aggravation. Not impressed with the stand packing. Tank was perfect. Take a look. There is actual rust already.
The side I will see when in the fish room is in great shape.
Might just neutralize the rust then seal with something and just forget about it.
 

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On skid where damage occurred. It shifted enough to break the braces at the bottom then slid on skid.
 

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If itā€™s not visible, I would seal and call it a day while seeing if the moving company will pay out a check instead of repowder coating
 
I agree
thinking rust neutralizer then thin coat of epoxy
did delivery of tank yesterday so Iā€™ll post picks tomorrow most nervous phase of the house
 
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