My Lighting for now.

[Salt Newbee]

Hi,
My name is Rommel and I am new to the saltwater world. I've had freshwater tanks all my life 45 years so I'm not that new to the hobby just the saltwater part. Here was my setup: 220g fully planted tank, Co2 fed, FX5 canister filter (for now) and 6 - 21watt two bulb freshwater plant light fixtures 252 watts total. I got tired of seeing green all the time plants not algae, so I took on new challenges. I cleaned it all up cycled my tank, and now I have a mix of dead base rock and some LR stacked up about half way up the tank (15" from surface). Starting out with fish only for now but would like to get some color in there. With my light setup (they sit right on the glass covers 3" from water level) can I get some suggestions on some beginner coral that will survive with that amount of light or am I only wishing at this point? Any help or suggestions will be appreciated.

 

[SGT_York]

xenia, green star polyps, and kenya tree are good starter corals. Check your phosphates and nitrates reguarly. Also with the glass above the water line you will need to periodically clean for salt creep. Invest in some improved lighting soon and enjoy.

 

[Salt Newbee]

When it was a planted tank I left the glass tops off should I do it again? Will I get salt buildup on my lights? Faster evaporation?

 

[billdogg]

I would ditch the glass tops for several reasons. They block a significant amount of light, they inhibit oxygenation of the water, and they will collect salt and so will require frequent cleaning. Take a look in the DIY section, or do a quick search for DIY screen tops. They wil keep the jumpers in without blocking the light and will allow for ample oxygenation. They are also very easy and inexpensie to make. Win, win, win, win.

Although the canister will work, it too is far from ideal for anything more than a container for carbon. Without frequent cleanings (weekly) it will trap too much detritus and end up causing more problems than it is worth. Your live rock will provide all the denitrification you need.

Look also into adding a sump. Although it will require some plumbing, it, too, is well worth the effort.

Yes, you will need to upgrade your lighting, as you have already figured out. There really are 3 viable options, T5 HO, Metal Halide, and LED. All have their pluses, all have their minuses. My personal preference is LED for a number of reasons. Although the upfront cost can be a bit intimidating, they produce little heat (certainly none that transfers to the tank), use electricity much more efficiently than either of the others, and can last for years without need for replacement. Both MH and T5 need periodic replacement (6 - 9 months) so any upfront costs saved will be eaten up by bulbs in the future. The color temperature is variable depending on choice of actual LED's, certainly a boast neither MH or T5 can make. Others swear by MH, some refuse to look farther than T5 (or even T12 VHO). Ultimately that choice is yours. Take a look at a few tanks with each type and go from there.

I've been keeping Marine tanks for over 25 years, and have had a tank of one sort or another for most of my 54 years. I still learn new things all the time.

Welcome to Reefing!!!

 

[Salt Newbee]

Thank you for all the great info. Time to upgrade!!!

 

[Subsea]

Many mushrooms thrive in low light and low energy environments. Also, a buch of filter feeders would thrive in a high nutrient lagoon enviroment. An advantage of a lower light intensity would be to limit photosynthic activity of nuisance micro and macro alges. With a healthy population of grazing herbivores, this would be a interesting tank theme at a low budget.
Patrick