tgunn
Active member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8266892#post8266892 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chrisrush
Yea, noise, heat, and flow. I don't plan on keeping the penductors, at least for now. I guess I'll see how the ehiem does at first, and then if I need some more flow, I might add them back.
That's the problem that I'm facing. I need more blue, but I don't want to sacrifice the PAR. I hear that Iwaski is coming out with a sweet 15k MH bulb around christmas that is going to rock in terms of color and PAR.
Sanjay was talking about the amount of PAR from those fluorescent bulbs, both T5s, T8s and T12s. The optimal temperature for most of them was between 20-25 C from what I can remember. I know that inside my canopy, which is very well ventilated, it gets above that. And if the only thing that I'm running the actinics for is aesthetics, then I might as well just buy some cheap 40w tubes instead of burning 220w with the VHOs. When I turned them off, I didn't notice much of a difference in terms of my eyes. I lengthened my photoperiod by an hr. for the MH, so that should help, from 5 to 6 hrs.
Probably the best bet to try without the penductors. I have to play around with the ones I've borrowed from LittleBlueGT some more but I think I may end up downgrading my return pump to a PCX55 or PCX40. The 70 is way too much flow and pulls microbubbles through the sump. Plus it eats up power...
My thought was to try the ReefFlux 10ks or the CoralVue 12ks in January when I need to halides. I'd also like to try swapping my T5s for a more "true actinic" rather than the Blue+ bulbs I have right now.
WOW, that's quite a low temperature to have to keep the bulbs at for optimal running! I honestly wouldn't have guessed it'd be that low... Despite my well vented canopy I can say for sure I'm not managing to attain that. I shall have to think some more about venting..
Tyler